Axle Nut Info from Assembly Plant
09-06-2007, 04:25 PM
#1
NCM Life Member
Thread Starter
Axle Nut Info from Assembly Plant
I posted this information at the end of an existing thread. It was suggested that I start a new thread so that anyone with the problem can see the corrective action.
I used the Owner Feedback at http://www.bowlinggreenassemblyplant.com/
to ask about the Axle Nut issue.
I received a reply and asked for permission to post the fix on the forums. The information I received is as follows:
If there is presence of the nut "indexing and/or looseness", do the following:
1. Remove existing nut
2. Apply Goodwrench # 12345493 (also known as Loctite 272) on threads in area where nut finally seats
3. Install new nut (p/n 10257766)
4. Torque nut to 190Nm (140 ft-lb), static
5. Allow 24 hours cure time.
Update 9/13/2007
Part Number 12345493. has been superceded by 89021297.
Note that a NEW nut is required and the torque has been increased from 118 ft-lb to 140 ft-lb.
Save The Wave,
John
I used the Owner Feedback at http://www.bowlinggreenassemblyplant.com/
to ask about the Axle Nut issue.
I received a reply and asked for permission to post the fix on the forums. The information I received is as follows:
If there is presence of the nut "indexing and/or looseness", do the following:
1. Remove existing nut
2. Apply Goodwrench # 12345493 (also known as Loctite 272) on threads in area where nut finally seats
3. Install new nut (p/n 10257766)
4. Torque nut to 190Nm (140 ft-lb), static
5. Allow 24 hours cure time.
Update 9/13/2007
Part Number 12345493. has been superceded by 89021297.
Note that a NEW nut is required and the torque has been increased from 118 ft-lb to 140 ft-lb.
Save The Wave,
John
Last edited by jbeidl; 09-13-2007 at 06:06 PM. Reason: Add new Loctite Part Number
09-06-2007, 04:29 PM
#2
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
VERY interesting, thanks for the post/thread! 
09-06-2007, 04:29 PM
#3
Team Owner
I posted this information at the end of an existing thread. It was suggested that I start a new thread so that anyone with the problem can see the corrective action.
I used the Owner Feedback at http://www.bowlinggreenassemblyplant.com/
to ask about the Axle Nut issue.
I received a reply and asked for permission to post the fix on the forums. The information I received is as follows:
If there is presence of the nut "indexing and/or looseness", do the following:
1. Remove existing nut
2. Apply Goodwrench # 12345493 (also known as Loctite 272) on threads in area where nut finally seats
3. Install new nut (p/n 10257766)
4. Torque nut to 190Nm (140 ft-lb), static
5. Allow 24 hours cure time.
Note that a NEW nut is required and the torque has been increased from 118 ft-lb to 140 ft-lb.
Save The Wave,
John
I used the Owner Feedback at http://www.bowlinggreenassemblyplant.com/
to ask about the Axle Nut issue.
I received a reply and asked for permission to post the fix on the forums. The information I received is as follows:
If there is presence of the nut "indexing and/or looseness", do the following:
1. Remove existing nut
2. Apply Goodwrench # 12345493 (also known as Loctite 272) on threads in area where nut finally seats
3. Install new nut (p/n 10257766)
4. Torque nut to 190Nm (140 ft-lb), static
5. Allow 24 hours cure time.
Note that a NEW nut is required and the torque has been increased from 118 ft-lb to 140 ft-lb.
Save The Wave,
John
Thanks for the information John. Great information.
Paul
09-06-2007, 04:53 PM
#5
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That's great info!
Mine haven't shown loose to date but I may just order a couple of nuts just in case
Mine haven't shown loose to date but I may just order a couple of nuts just in case
09-06-2007, 04:56 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Thanks!
Yes, very interesting... especially since many of us had speculated that thread locker as well as high torque might not be the best thing for the situation.
Of course, thread locker and high torque would be the most typical cure for any typical situation where a given nut tends to loosen. Hopefully the engineers thought this through for this specific situation and didn't just rattle off the textbook answer for a loose nut.
We learned from the axle chatter issue that responses from GM about curing a problem may or may not be correct... at least not the first time.
I torqued my original nuts to spec (one was loose) and did not use thread locker. My intention was/is to simply check the torque regularly every 5k miles or so (or at every oil change, whatever). I may continue to do this and only take more extensive action if I note one or both nuts starting to loosen again at any point... or until we know for sure that GM's new cure is indeed the most appropriate course of action.
The only bad thing about using thread locker is that once you use it, you can no longer check torque without disturbing the locking bond and/or the bond will not allow you to achieve a true accurate torque reading. Until we know 100% for sure why these nuts lose their torque, I may continue to check torque periodically (which means no thread locker)... because i'm not yet convinced that it's the NUT that's merely backing off, losing torque... the loss of torque may be coming from something wearing, stretching, moving etc with respect to the axle itself... if so, thread locker will not help.
Will give this a little more time to unfold. In the meantime my axle nuts are torqued nice and have been holding torque.
Yes, very interesting... especially since many of us had speculated that thread locker as well as high torque might not be the best thing for the situation.
Of course, thread locker and high torque would be the most typical cure for any typical situation where a given nut tends to loosen. Hopefully the engineers thought this through for this specific situation and didn't just rattle off the textbook answer for a loose nut.
We learned from the axle chatter issue that responses from GM about curing a problem may or may not be correct... at least not the first time.
I torqued my original nuts to spec (one was loose) and did not use thread locker. My intention was/is to simply check the torque regularly every 5k miles or so (or at every oil change, whatever). I may continue to do this and only take more extensive action if I note one or both nuts starting to loosen again at any point... or until we know for sure that GM's new cure is indeed the most appropriate course of action.
The only bad thing about using thread locker is that once you use it, you can no longer check torque without disturbing the locking bond and/or the bond will not allow you to achieve a true accurate torque reading. Until we know 100% for sure why these nuts lose their torque, I may continue to check torque periodically (which means no thread locker)... because i'm not yet convinced that it's the NUT that's merely backing off, losing torque... the loss of torque may be coming from something wearing, stretching, moving etc with respect to the axle itself... if so, thread locker will not help.
Will give this a little more time to unfold. In the meantime my axle nuts are torqued nice and have been holding torque.
sorry missed the thread , whats wrong with our nuts ? lol
09-06-2007, 05:00 PM
#9
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09-06-2007, 05:33 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
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Interesting....so, exactly what "new nuts" are we supposed to obtain? Is there something different about them? Is GM now considering this a warranty repair since they are calling for replacement parts? I'm with Vet on this - let's not do anything until there is a definite solution to the problem. Loctite could very well make the situation worse.
09-06-2007, 06:06 PM
#14
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What's wrong with....?
Yes, very interesting... especially since many of us had speculated that thread locker as well as high torque might not be the best thing for the situation.
I'm missing something....what's wrong with thread locker and a higher torque value?
I'm missing something....what's wrong with thread locker and a higher torque value?
09-06-2007, 06:13 PM
#15
Team Owner
Jesse,
It would be worth going back to your dealer with this new information and the new nut part numbers (and new torque specs) had make them do it under warranty.
Paul
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09-06-2007, 06:15 PM
#16
NCM Life Member
Thread Starter
Save The Wave,
John
Last edited by jbeidl; 09-06-2007 at 06:42 PM. Reason: Corrected Typo
09-06-2007, 06:20 PM
#17
Team Owner
Jesse,
It would be worth going back to your dealer with this new information and the new nut part numbers (and new torque specs) had make them do it under warranty.
Paul
It would be worth going back to your dealer with this new information and the new nut part numbers (and new torque specs) had make them do it under warranty.
Paul
This seems like something that we can do ourselves,also.Does that other line mean we can't drive it for a day?
Last edited by not08crmanymore; 09-06-2007 at 06:23 PM.
09-06-2007, 06:21 PM
#18
Drifting
BTW: mine have never been loose and I don't baby it.
09-06-2007, 06:23 PM
#19
Team Owner
If the nut and the thread isn't designed for the higher torque specification it will do damage to the thread...that's all. Every thread (pitch and diameter) will have a maximum reusable torque that can be applied. Depending upon the percent engagement of the peaks and valleys as well as weather it is a cut thread or a formed thread will all combine to determine the maximum torque that can be safely and repeatably applied
09-06-2007, 06:24 PM
#20
Team Owner
I would say yes. The threadlock requires time to setup when it is not under load. If you drive it while it is still curing it will lessen its effectiveness at holding under load.