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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
As some of you guys & gals who have commented about your Tremec TR6060 leaking fluid at the 1-4 skip shift solenoid like mine, i decided to remove it & install a plug. This was last year. Now, a year later, I have it on my lift & noticed the bottom of the trans was wet. With a mirror, I notice that the actual leak was coming from the skip shift cover located on top of the trans (driver side). As some CF members have mentioned, GM or Tremec didn’t use the proper silicone (no gasket). So I removed most of the exhaust, removed 3 out of the 4 bolts successfully (tight fit) but stripped one of the T40 shoulder head bolts (my fault ). I then removed the passenger muffler/over axle pipe completely. I used a mini rt angle grinder w/ mirror to remove head of bolt & cover. The cover has 4 bolt holes, 2 small holes for hex bolts & 2 larger bolt holes for the shoulder bolts. The Chevy dealership shows all 4 bolts the exact same for my vin number. I called Tremec Manufacturer in Michigan to confirm my part number was correct. Tremec 1386–183-002 (M8-1.25mm x1”) & contact Hawks Motorsports for ordering. I JB weld one corner of the cover with old shoulder bolt installed, removed & then filed. I took a couple pics including the proper silicone (Permatex 81182). I just serviced a CF member’s ZR1 without the dreaded leak. I hope this info can help others including Z06 owners.
Wow! Absolute nightmare of a job, whoever at GM or Tremec thought it was a good idea to use two different types of bolt heads...I'm not even sure. Even better, you CANNOT just swap the bolts positions, they must be inserted as they were, and torqued in a specific order. First the torx, then hex head. On the drivers side, you have a normal bolt head towards the front, and the torx head towards the rear. Easy enough. The passenger side is harder, the torx is up front, hex in the rear. This is where the problems start. You CANNOT loosen it from on the passenger side. The chassis is in the way, and there is a big wiring harness. You have to feed the wrench over the diff from the drivers side, and make sure the torx is securely into the head and you must keep it straight, or it will strip out. Chances are the bolt won't move. If you remove the entire exhaust, this job becomes much easier. There is a lot of torque on these bolts for some unknown reason. You may see parts of the old gasket just hanging there too! If you drop the rear cradle, this is a lot easier, but dropping the rear cradle opens its own can of worms. It is possible to do this with everything in place, it's just very difficult, possibly on par with sticking your hand up between the bellhousing and chassis to install a remote bleeder!
If its leaking on the driver's side, I would think its the skip shift solenoid or the skip shift cover on top of the trans.
Let us know the outcome. If you're mechanically inclined, you can do what I did & fix the cover leak without removing the drivetrain (not easy).
You would save a boat load of money.
Note: If it is the cover & you decide to take on this task, make sure once all four bolts are removed, lift straight up & then to the rear of the vehicle so the roller lifter & spring stay in the cover.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
Originally Posted by Lights ZR1
Wow! Absolute nightmare of a job, whoever at GM or Tremec thought it was a good idea to use two different types of bolt heads...I'm not even sure. Even better, you CANNOT just swap the bolts positions, they must be inserted as they were, and torqued in a specific order. First the torx, then hex head. On the drivers side, you have a normal bolt head towards the front, and the torx head towards the rear. Easy enough. The passenger side is harder, the torx is up front, hex in the rear. This is where the problems start. You CANNOT loosen it from on the passenger side. The chassis is in the way, and there is a big wiring harness. You have to feed the wrench over the diff from the drivers side, and make sure the torx is securely into the head and you must keep it straight, or it will strip out. Chances are the bolt won't move. If you remove the entire exhaust, this job becomes much easier. There is a lot of torque on these bolts for some unknown reason. You may see parts of the old gasket just hanging there too! If you drop the rear cradle, this is a lot easier, but dropping the rear cradle opens its own can of worms. It is possible to do this with everything in place, it's just very difficult, possibly on par with sticking your hand up between the bellhousing and chassis to install a remote bleeder!
They use 2 of the Torx step bolts so the cover can be correctly located for the shifter detent.
Here is a hack for those who are looking to do this job. GM part # 24280393. It's a gasket for the cover so you don't have to use silicone where you can't see.
They use 2 of the Torx step bolts so the cover can be correctly located for the shifter detent.
Here is a hack for those who are looking to do this job. GM part # 24280393. It's a gasket for the cover so you don't have to use silicone where you can't see.
Just looked this up, it appears to be listed under the C7 / TR6070. This fits a TR6060 also?
05-05-2024, 05:51 PM
TR6060 actual fluid leak location
