65air_coupe

I've searched for and read several posts on this problem but none seem to fit my situation This is a first time start after a year or so of sitting following the replacement of the cam, lifters and valve springs. Also a new 3.70 posi but that's immaterial.

So while I'm waiting for the battery to charge back up, I thought I'd ask for the wisdom here.

The car has a newer Pertronix that has been on the car for several years prior to the cam replacement, It also has their Flamethrower coil that eliminates the ballast resistor. I have a terminal block in place of the ballast resistor that receives power from the ignition switch and has the coil wire and the electric choke wire connected to it. I have a solid 12V on it with the switch in both start and run positions and confirmed the 12V is on the coil terminal as well.

So it seems to me that there should not be any problem and it should continue to run after the ignition moves from the start to the run position. What am I missing?

It's simple stupid - check for the obvious! It didn't have enough gas to be picked up and fill the carb bowls with the *** end in the air so I can do the first step in breaking in the new diffy. It would start on the squirt from the accelerator pump but the bowls didn't have enough for it to run and it just seemed like it was dying when I let off the key. Go back to your cocktails and never mind me.

RatDog

Fastest solution ever on this forum.

Take care,
Steve

ChrisBlair

R66

It happens to all of us, not that we like to admit.

Factoid

Most electrical problems are fuel related or is that most fuel problems are electrical related…whatever, glad you got it fixed.