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I can't be the only one who has this thing and has noticed it is 100% useless as a speed bleeder unless modified. As soon as I put pressure on it and crack the fitting, brake fluid starts leaking past the swivel fitting and down the line. The only way to use it as delivered is to submerge the whole top end in brake fluid. Better than not having one but definitely doesn't work as advertised
I can't be the only one who has this thing and has noticed it is 100% useless as a speed bleeder unless modified. As soon as I put pressure on it and crack the fitting, brake fluid starts leaking past the swivel fitting and down the line. The only way to use it as delivered is to submerge the whole top end in brake fluid. Better than not having one but definitely doesn't work as advertised
I've been using the Katech clutch remote speed bleeder on my car for 9 years now with zero problems. Is it possible that you are not using it correctly? It is designed to be used with a vacuum brake bleeder. So I simply hook my vacuum brake bleeder to the line, crack the fitting and it bleeds just like it should and I'm done in 10-20 seconds. If you don't have a vacuum bleeder you can get one from Harbor Freight for about $19 last time I checked, they do wonders for making brake bleeding go a lot faster too.
I'm sure I'm using it right it just flat doesn't work. If I put my vacuum pump on it, as soon as I crack the bleeder I can hear it sucking air past the bottom of the swivel fitting
There is no way this setup won't pull air right through the bottom under vacuum
Again, the one that I've been using for roughly 9 years now does not leak. I know of a lot of other people that run them also and have never heard any of them mention a problem. So I would guess that there may be some type of issue that is isolated to the one that you received and you should probably given them a call to discuss.....
It’s been years (and perhaps I should flush my fluid) but I recall having issues with my katech bleeder as well. I called and believe they said to crack it, submerge it in the reservoir and pump the pedal.
I don’t think that worked and I ended up doing a version of the traditional pump and hold, and just catching what I could as it dribbled out.
regardless, subb’d for the correct answer so I can do it right.
Pressure bleeder.
If used properly, always maintains a positive flow of fluid, no chance of air reentering system.
Hook it up, pump it up, crack the bleeder until clean fluid comes out.
Motive Products makes a good one. Remarkably inexpensive, and attachments are available for pretty much everything you'll ever own.
Pressure bleeder.
If used properly, always maintains a positive flow of fluid, no chance of air reentering system.
Hook it up, pump it up, crack the bleeder until clean fluid comes out.
Motive Products makes a good one. Remarkably inexpensive, and attachments are available for pretty much everything you'll ever own.
They do not make one for the clutch reservoir. You have to send one in to be converted. I have one of their pressure bleeders and it works great.
This is what they told me a while back. If you know of a part number that they have now that works, I would appreciate it.
Until I can find a used cap that the seller isn't proud of, i'm going to continue to use the ranger method.
They do not make one for the clutch reservoir. You have to send one in to be converted. I have one of their pressure bleeders and it works great.
This is what they told me a while back. If you know of a part number that they have now that works, I would appreciate it.
Until I can find a used cap that the seller isn't proud of, i'm going to continue to use the ranger method.
Come to think of it...
As of about 1 1/2 years ago, they found GM had evidently used some different size reservoirs, and couldn't find consistent applications.
Doubt that's changed, but it might be worth giving them a call again. Super easy to deal with.
Any speed bleeder, and the katech is probably the best of them.
Converting an old master cylinder cap to a pressure bleeder is best thing ever. I would go as far as saying it is worth buying a new MC and putting it in just to get the cap, and make sure you have the newest design.
Katech says to submerge the bleeder in brake fluid to bleed it. Here's the solution: Russell part # 641370. Now it can be used as an actual speed bleeder without getting brake fluid everywhere
The issue I have with the katech bleeder is that the hose end is a swivel. Imagine trying to bleed your brakes if loosening the bleeder let fluid leak out the back side of the caliper.
What I ended up doing was installing a brake cut-off valve:
Happy to report the Russell 641370 makes the katech bleeder usable as intended. You can vacuum, pressure, or use the pedal to bleed it without a helper and without a mess. Should have been delivered this way but oh well.
Sorry for bumping an old thread three years later, but I can confirm my Katech remote bleeder does this as well. If I bleed it using a compressed air power vacuum bleeder with a friend, no issues, but it's slow as hell, I suspect because of air getting in. But tonight for the first time, I tried doing it with a speed bleeder bottle that had a check valve, and pumping the pedal. Thought I finished up and found a huge puddle of brake fluid under the car. After some investigating I found that it was pissing fluid out of the bottom of the swivel fitting. There is a nanometer range of where you can have the bleeder open and bleed and not leak when pushing the clutch down. If you surpass this range by nanometer it will leak every time you push the pedal down. I will follow the advice in here and change the fitting to the Russell! I love this forum.
You get 3 pumps of the pedal to get the fluid from max to just above minimum in the reservoir. This is way faster than vacuum.
641370 isn’t available anywhere. 641291 uses the same fitting but without a matched bleeder screw. Ordered from Amazon.
EDIT: I found 641370 in stock. 641291 is NOT the same.
Last edited by Lights ZR1; 05-22-2024 at 01:36 PM.
Happy to report the Russell 641370 makes the katech bleeder usable as intended. You can vacuum, pressure, or use the pedal to bleed it without a helper and without a mess. Should have been delivered this way but oh well.
Did you use any thread sealant with this new setup? I tried PMing but your box is full.
Should I use a dab of thread sealant on the Russell 641370 fitting where it screws into the Katech line? Or any on the bleeder screw? The Katech screw definitely has something on the threads.
You don't need any sealant on the Russell fitting that screws into the katech line. Once that's tight, you won't touch it again. Sealant on the bleeder screw is optional, but will help if you want to vacuum bleed it. Or if you don't want any fluid seeping up around the threads when you pump the pedal to bleed.
You don't need any sealant on the Russell fitting that screws into the katech line. Once that's tight, you won't touch it again. Sealant on the bleeder screw is optional, but will help if you want to vacuum bleed it or if you don't want any fluid seeping up around the threads
Pedal pumps with a check valve bottle will be the best method for me.
You don't need any sealant on the Russell fitting that screws into the katech line. Once that's tight, you won't touch it again. Sealant on the bleeder screw is optional, but will help if you want to vacuum bleed it. Or if you don't want any fluid seeping up around the threads when you pump the pedal to bleed.
Edited to be more clear
The Russell fitting just stops spinning once its bottoms out on the Katech swivel fitting right? Just snug it after that or not needed?
07-08-2021, 01:10 PM
Katech remote speed bleeder is useless
