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Thanks very much to the last 3 posters! The Tic bleeder arrived today, so I am just starting to try and understand the differences. Price for me is not the deciding factor.
one question. Would it be possible to fabricate a purpose built long socket, slotted for the hose to fit inside of, and perhaps turntable by an open end wrench? Use this to attach hose to fitting. Don’t know if the hole where the hose goes through the torque tube or clutch housing is so tight that it would make this impossible to do? I have done this type of thIng on airplane builds that I have done. The small adapter, with the copper crush washer looks, perhaps, doable? Just need to find the pictures in the FSM and talk to smart guys like you that have already done this project. I think I understand that I won’t be able to see what I will be working on.
Other options are making this a winter project, and tear it down myself, or payin the Man to do it for me. My end goal is to gift the car to a grandson that likes cars. With 50000 miles gently driven by old men, the existing clutch I believe to be in great shape. But the slave is sludged up. I can tell. First few trips in spring just feel not right.
You could try the remote bleeder you bought, if you can’t get the threads started could always put the factory bleeder back in and bleed it with a 2nd person pumping clutch pedal and watching/adding brake fluid.
Save Tick bleeder for one day when needing clutch job.
For me the biggest trouble I had doing this was the exhaust flange bolts bending and breaking off, having to extract broken bolts, after getting those all out and finding new bolts the clutch bleeder was not bad.
Thanks very much to the last 3 posters! The Tic bleeder arrived today, so I am just starting to try and understand the differences. Price for me is not the deciding factor.
one question. Would it be possible to fabricate a purpose built long socket, slotted for the hose to fit inside of, and perhaps turntable by an open end wrench? Use this to attach hose to fitting. Don’t know if the hole where the hose goes through the torque tube or clutch housing is so tight that it would make this impossible to do? I have done this type of thIng on airplane builds that I have done. The small adapter, with the copper crush washer looks, perhaps, doable? Just need to find the pictures in the FSM and talk to smart guys like you that have already done this project. I think I understand that I won’t be able to see what I will be working on.
Other options are making this a winter project, and tear it down myself, or payin the Man to do it for me. My end goal is to gift the car to a grandson that likes cars. With 50000 miles gently driven by old men, the existing clutch I believe to be in great shape. But the slave is sludged up. I can tell. First few trips in spring just feel not right.
I read about a guy who hogged out a deep socket and make a notch to fit a wrench. Gotta look for it…..
essentially cut out two sides of the hex just like a flare nut wrench.
and for those who are pulling their torque tubes anyway: i built a remote clutch bleeder for my wife's hummer for ~$50. the parts turned out to be same as what's on my C5 (except i used a shorter hose).
Thanks to all who contributed in this thread to make this job a breeze. I recently had the headers off my 02 C5Z so I went ahead and installed the Katech remote bleeder. It is definitely a tight space, but the below tool(thanks to a friend) made install of the first piece of the remote bleeder easy. I used a normal wrench for the second piece, which took some time/patience. Total time was probably 20 minutes at the bleeder area.
C6 here, just discovered my Katech remote bleeder also pisses fluid out of the swivel fitting. I see the Russell 641291, do I need to drill anything or will it just work with the bleeder screw that Katech provides? 641370 hasn’t been available anywhere for weeks!
Last edited by Lights ZR1; 05-19-2024 at 01:36 AM.
I used a 1/4' x 1" Ball Lock Square Drive Hex Shank Socket Adapter on a 7/16" socket to get the first piece in, and a 1/4" open end wrench to sock it in. Then just a regular 10mm open end wrench to get the 90 fitting on. Just stuff anyone should have in their tool chest.
Tooke a couple hours to figure out the right combo due to the tight fit, but now that I know what works, I think it could be done in 20-30 minutes. This was on my back with little light on jack stands. Work mostly by feel when working on this.
The bleeder screw included in 641370 is 639590. The fitting in 641370 is not 641291, however the dimensions are the same. According to Edelbrock directly they don't list a part number for it, but the dimensions are identical.
They have no ETA for the 641370 kit.
Last edited by Lights ZR1; 05-20-2024 at 11:48 AM.
C6 here, just discovered my Katech remote bleeder also pisses fluid out of the swivel fitting. I see the Russell 641291, do I need to drill anything or will it just work with the bleeder screw that Katech provides? 641370 hasn’t been available anywhere for weeks!
Just read that earlier, but I see people putting this together without drilling the fitting without issues. Would you say it's necessary?
You may have noticed my post was over 4 years ago...! I don't have any specific recollection to directly answer your question. That said, in my post it says "female inverted flare" which is entirely the wrong geometry to accept a bleeder screw's tip IMO... but the fitting is aluminum and the bleeder screw is steel so who knows, maybe the fitting will deform sufficiently for the screw to seal.
You may have noticed my post was over 4 years ago...! I don't have any specific recollection to directly answer your question. That said, in my post it says "female inverted flare" which is entirely the wrong geometry to accept a bleeder screw's tip IMO... but the fitting is aluminum and the bleeder screw is steel so who knows, maybe the fitting will deform sufficiently for the screw to seal.
Indeed. I just received the 641291 fitting today, which is the same fitting that comes in 641370, and it's also female inverted flare. I have the bleeder screw that comes in the kit on order also.
EDIT: Found 641370 in stock. The fitting is not the same and doesnt require drilling it out.
Last edited by Lights ZR1; 05-21-2024 at 04:05 PM.
Another question, should I use a dab of thread sealant on the Russell 641370 fitting where it screws into the Katech line? Or any on the bleeder screw? The Katech screw definitely has something on the threads.
Indeed. I just received the 641291 fitting today, which is the same fitting that comes in 641370, and it's also female inverted flare. I have the bleeder screw that comes in the kit on order also.
EDIT: Found 641370 in stock. The fitting is not the same and doesnt require drilling it out.
So the 641370 “kit” part is not the same part as the sole 641291? And if true, where did you get the mitt from?
So the 641370 “kit” part is not the same part as the sole 641291? And if true, where did you get the mitt from?
Thanks
According to Russell themselves, there is no part number for the fitting in the 641370 kit. It apparently does not have the inverted flare like 641291 does. But all Russell could tell me is 641291 is not the fitting in 641370.
It makes sense, an inverted flare won't seal a bleeder screw. I found it in stock at Pace Performance. I think they only had two left, and another member PMd me when I found it. Russell has no ETA on 641370 availability.
They said they are missing the fittings to complete the kit.
When 641370 does arrive, I am torn on whether or not to put a dab of thread sealant on the threads of the fitting that screws into the Katech line, and on the threads of the speed bleeder screw they include. The Katech screw has some sealant on it.
According to Russell themselves, there is no part number for the fitting in the 641370 kit. It apparently does not have the inverted flare like 641291 does. But all Russell could tell me is 641291 is not the fitting in 641370.
It makes sense, an inverted flare won't seal a bleeder screw. I found it in stock at Pace Performance. I think they only had two left, and another member PMd me when I found it. Russell has no ETA on 641370 availability.
They said they are missing the fittings to complete the kit.
When 641370 does arrive, I am torn on whether or not to put a dab of thread sealant on the threads of the fitting that screws into the Katech line, and on the threads of the speed bleeder screw they include. The Katech screw has some sealant on it.
The Katech speed bleeder has sealant to help prevent the likelihood of fluid getting past. Regular bleed screws do not usually have it. I suppose it wouldn’t hurt to put it on the 641370 into the Katech.
Another question, should I use a dab of thread sealant on the Russell 641370 fitting where it screws into the Katech line? Or any on the bleeder screw? The Katech screw definitely has something on the threads.
Nah, don't do that. The connection there is a -3AN, and it seals on the nose of the male taper on the Russell fitting. If the connection is made correctly (i.e. both AN surfaces are clean and the fitting is tightened) the thread sealant would do exactly zero.
641370 installed. No sealer needed. The Russell bleeder screw had some on it already. I used the bracket but not the brake clip, just a twisty tie, so I can easily take it out of the bracket to bleed in a better position. Mounted it to the hood bracket.
As expected the inside of the 641370 fitting is machined downwards so the bleeder screw perfectly seals against it. Completely opposite of 641291. This is on a C6 ZR1, but I imagine its the same for a C5.
Used ACDelco 19299570 DOT4 brake fluid as listed in the manual, it superscedes what is in there. It's Pentosin DOT4 LV fluid. The wet boiling point on the container is identical, and Pentosin lists the GM part number as a direct correlation.
05-30-2023, 08:31 PM
