C2vettelover

Hello, all. I am new to CF and in search of my very first classic car (matching numbers '66 or '67 coupe with side exhaust) so I have many questions before I dive in! Living in central Wisconsin, I'll no doubt end up making a long distance purchase. If anyone could share their experience doing this or provide any feedback on some of my questions below I would sooooo much appreciate it.
1. Did you find your own prepurchase inspector or use an inspector recommended by the dealership (if through a dealership)? 2. Did you also have the inspector do an appraisal? 3. How much did your inspector charge? 4. Did you have the inspection done before negotiating a price on your purchase or after? My thought is to have it inspected first before flying out to see for myself. 5. Thoughts on buying a consigned car from a dealership? I've been reading reviews on several dealerships in hopes of weeding out those that might not be so forthright though hiring an inspector should minimize these concerns. 6. My plan is to take my C2 to nearby car shows and take it out periodically for that Sunday afternoon drive. I know buying one with an L79 would probably be the most practical purchase, but you know how that is, it's hard to resist the lure of the big block (L36 or L68 - don't want to deal with the nonsense of solid lifters since I'm no mechanic!) so I haven't ruled that out. Your thoughts?
Thank you in advance for any of you that are able to give me some feedback. Looking forward to joining the C2 family!

phil2302

Select your own inspector. I dont think using one the dealer / seller suggests would be a good idea.
There is a Corvette forum member who is a highly regarded pre buy inspector.
His name is Provette67
Dont buy any Corvette without it being checked unless you really know your stuff.

silver837

Solid lifters are not nonsense. Once the engine is sorted after a rebuild , or original , the valve adjustment should be good for many miles.
That is assuming you are not revving to redline every time you drive the car .

Bluestripe67

We don't mean to pry, but what is your general location? It can help us direct you to possible local sources of cars. Please hire a C-2 experienced person to provide a well detailed survey of the car of your choice. It will be smart money spent! Many unseen issues can turn an externally beautiful Vette into a BIG money pit, especially in your case since you said you are "no mechanic". Get a GM Factory Chassis Manual and a GM Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM), also search Google for books on '63-'67 Vettes. The more you know, the less money you may have to spend when some work is necessary at a Vette/classic car service place. DO NOT take it to a new car dealer! The '66/'67 with the base motor, 300HP is ideal for your style of use. The L-79 is nice to have, but I would't consider it the "most practical". These cars need, at best, bi weekly use. I don't mean 4-10 miles. That doesn't get everything up to full temp. If work is required, don't be surprised at costs. Radiator-$900-$1000, Rear spindle trailing arm full service, $1500, Full brake replacement, $500 $1500, Gauge cluster restoration, $1200-$1500, adding PS, $1100. If in the future you want to add A/C, $1800. These are without labor.
I'm not trying to discourage you, just be aware of the potential cost of ownership if repairs are necessary. As far as insurance is concerned, contact the National Corvette Museum Ins Program. I hope this helps in your search. Dennis

Phil64

I used Pancho to do a full evaluation on the purchase of my 1966 C2 in 2020 and he was incredibly thorough and knowledgeable and provided me a very lengthy document on the appraisal. His details are Pancho Thompson provette67@aol.com. Highly recommended!

Tampa Jerry

See if you can get some information about your local NCRS chapter. Members would have a wealth of information about C-2s and perhaps a line on local cars for sale. Use the For Sale section of this forum to get an idea what's for sale. Also, there is an ongoing thread listing and discussing C-2s for sale around the country. Good luck and take your time. Jerry

LouieM

Another vote for provette. Another potential option: When I found my 67 to buy back in 2002 it was in Michigan and I'm in California. I contacted the local NCRS (National Corvette Restorers Society) director for that area of the country, and he put me in touch with a guy local to the car for sale who was a 1967 Master Judge. He was kind enough to go over the car with a fine tooth comb and even filled out an NCRS judging sheet as if the car for sale were being judged at a meet. He charged a small fee. After that, I was confident about the car's condition, so I flew to MI and drove it back to CA. As everyone says, you absolutely need someone with an experienced eye to look these cars over before even thinking about a purchase.

gilbybarr

You have the right idea....to actually have an inspection done before making the deal. I did this with my '65 before I bought it from a big Corvette dealer....had a friend who was a Corvette expert check it first before I drove 8 hours to see it myself. I also contacted the prior owner and the shop that did the restoration work 8 years before my purchase. And also had pics of the resto and copies of the NCRS Top Flight judging. Only then did I make the deal and I still have the car 26 years later. A good friend of mine just purchased a '68 long distance WITHOUT doing an inspection (though I told him to do one and see it himself before he bought). He took the word of the seller and put faith in the pictures provided (unfortunately, pictures can lie) and ended up with a car with a lot of problems (bad wiring, dead battery, bad convertible top, missing window trim on doors, headlights that won't rise, paint issues, etc.). Plus, if you are considering a high value car (something better than a nice driver) you absolutely need to confirm that what you are paying for is actually what the car is. Good luck!

provette67

A word of advice, buy the best example of the car that you want. There are many cars out there. To some they all look the same. But cars that need things can really add $$$ to the total investment of the car that you buy. Also think about options and colors that you really want. Good luck with your search.

Lotsacubes

This is one of those rare occurrences in life where spending another 10k to get a nicer car can save you 20-40k. I can testify to that. After riding in my friend's BB Vette in 1974 I wanted BB torque for over 40 years. So decide how bad you want a BB. That will narrow down the search. Also since I didn't care about judging, I was fine buying a "non-matching" car that was in better condition. That's your second big decision. Then for me styling was next. I wanted the 65-66 body style, narrowed again. BTW... 1965 is also a BB. Your preference for an L36 car will probably get you a better car. My '66 L72 had a very hard life. It was so bad I had to buy/rebuild another L72 block. After those narrowing decisions to find candidates then all the advice about from provette and others applies. I wish I had hired him. But the final step of writing a check I just wouldn't be able to do until I saw it and touched it to see if it stirred my heart. I could never have done the mail order bride gig. Take your time and enjoy the hunt. My hunt was about 9 months. Larry

C2vettelover

This is fantastic feedback! Thank you all so much. I live two hours northwest of Madison, WI and have narrowed it down considerably to what I want from when my search/research began in February, which I'm sure will result in an out of state purchase. Given my inexperience I will definitely be hiring a qualified inspector before buying.
I'm also of the mind to spend more up front for a nice car with the idea that there will be less spent on repairs going forward. That, and I'm very particular! I need to get my wish list posted on the buy/sell section of CF (66 or 67 Coupe with side exhaust - origjnal color Rallye Red, Nassau Blue, Maroon or Black, no hit/accidents, matching numbers engine, 4 speed and rear end. Preferably some kind of restoration done somewhere along the line to avoid any undercarriage and bird cage rust. With no divorces or kids, and a car loving wife, I should be able to make this happen!

C2vettelover

This is fantastic feedback! Thank you all so much. I live two hours northwest of Madison, WI and have narrowed it down considerably to what I want from when my search/research began in February, which I'm sure will result in an out of state purchase. Given my inexperience I will definitely be hiring a qualified inspector before buying.
I'm also of the mind to spend more up front for a nice car with the idea that there will be less spent on repairs going forward. That, and I'm very particular! I need to get my wish list posted on the buy/sell section of CF -66 or 67 Coupe with side exhaust - origjnal color Rallye Red, Nassau Blue, Maroon or Black, no hit/accidents, matching numbers engine, 4 speed and rear end. Preferably some kind of restoration done somewhere along the line to avoid any undercarriage and bird cage rust. With no divorces or kids, and a car loving wife, I should be able to make this very specific laundry list happen!

ErminewhiteC2

That would put you pretty close to me. I live in LaCrosse

bbxlr8

Welcome & smart move getting educated. This is a great group with lots of on-point advice.

Points to consider RE: your wish list:"66 or 67 Coupe with side exhaust - original color Rallye Red, Nassau Blue, Maroon or Black, no hit/accidents, matching numbers engine, 4 speed and rear end"

• Most of these 57-61 year-old cars have encountered some sort of incident; fr. minor to major. A correctly done repair with the right parts can be considered
• Also, learn about numbers matching vs. born-with drivetrain. That is a rabbit hole & knowledgeable inspection is key

C2vettelover

More good stuff. Muchas gracias!

Dan Hampton

One need not look any further than Pancho for an inspection. If you want to see the quality of his evaluations, email me and I will send you a copy of one he performed on a '67 that I purchased a couple of years ago.

C2Scho

With regard to side pipes on your wish list . . .

Some Forum members hate them and some love them. Some prefer the look of a C2 without side exhaust as it seems to make the body look a bit more tapered when viewed from the side. Some who originally had side pipes beginning many years ago slowly lost their love for them and have (or are in the process of) transitioned back to under the body exhaust. Some love the look of the OE side exhaust but don't like the sound that comes with them and so ask us here on the Forum if we know who makes quiet side exhaust? An oxymoron if there ever was one.

There are many threads on this Forum where we all go back and forth debating the pros and cons of side exhaust versus under the body exhaust. If you ever plan on driving your new C2 with side exhaust at highway speeds continually for an hour or more, I (and others here on the Forum) would urge you try to link up with another C2 owner with side exhaust and do exactly that. It would be of benefit to have your wife experience a long ride with side exhaust as well if that becomes possible to do.

A friend of mine was forced to eventually get rid of his side exhaust and change to under the body exhaust after his wife took her first ride in his newly purchased 67 BB convertible. Something to consider along with all of the great advice as outlined above. C.J.

Corn Fed

I won't offer any advice on the inspection side, but will say you need to have cash in hand or at the bank ready to go. Good deals sell quick and if you have to wait to sell off mutual funds or other investments you will miss out. You might already miss out as you are waiting for an inspector to check it out and then for you to travel there.

Scott11

I was specifically looking for a Silver Blue ‘64 convertible that is number matching and show quality with frame-off restoration. I found exactly what I was looking for, though it was in Florida and I live north of Seattle, diagonally all the way across the country. I made the big jump and bought it, something I had never done before.

The seller actually proactively paid a professional appraiser / inspector to inspect it, appraise it, and write up a report. The seller provided me with the entire report. I recommend paying for one of these. Very valuable. This inspector got under the car, though it was entirely a wheels on ground inspection, not up on a lift, which would be the most ideal. Nonetheless, between the report plus photos and receipts of the restoration, I was pretty comfortable.

I then also connected with the local Florida NCRS chapter, who put me in touch with a kind and knowledgeable member (high level NCRS judge) who can do paid onsite inspections. After some phone calls and review of the appraiser’s report, he actually thought that hiring him would be a waste of money just because of the apparent condition of the car and record of the restoration. Nonetheless, without those items, an independent inspection would be well recommended and still a good idea if the situation can accommodate it.

My ‘64 is currently in an enclosed transport trailer heading across country. If you also go the route of transporting the car and if the car is in great condition, I recommend an enclosed trailer versus less expensive open transport. Also, be aware that transporters are notorious for over-promising to get your business and then not following through on specifics of their promises. For me, Montway (the country’s largest auto transporter broker) did not even come close to fulfilling the guaranteed pick up date promise that they clearly had made and that I agreed to pay them an additional $500 to do since I had to align the pick up with my travel plans. After multiple complaints about the problems they were creating by not fulfilling their promised services, their eventual solution was to pick up the car with an open trailer, move it to some undefined parking lot out in the weather, and leave it there until they could actually find and reserve the originally promised enclosed trailer transport. Since that was unacceptable, I went to SGT Auto Transport, which also had scheduling problems, though in the end they were able to fulfill their original schedule promises, though only after multiple complaints and issues that I had to work out with them. Also, the originally provided estimate was increased $800, even though absolutely nothing had changed between the time of their initial estimate and when they provided me the final bill. I ended up paying it just to get the process moving and get my car going with a generally reputable transporter. The $800 increase was essentially take it or leave it. So, just understand that low ballers and even the big transporters use bait and switch tactics with their initial “estimate”.

joewill

know your requirements and understand the prices of these cars will vary greatly based on condition and originality and seller motivation
understand that for you to require a certain color, a certain year, certain options, a degree of provable originality, and a certain condition with a good title makes your search for such a car quite difficult.
also, claimed original engines may be restamped or counterfeited to look original when they are really not. the counterfeiters and inspectors are continuously swaying the pendulum back and forth regarding what they can and can't get away with. Especially with the attrition of the experts starting to die off.
also understand that the car you seek will be rare, and even if for sale, might have an astronomical asking price beyond your means. Look at the EBAY auction prices for cars that never sell.
and also know that if the car is advertised at a price that you might be looking for, then others will also know that and you will have to act quick to scoop it up.
a 67 coupe will appreciate at about the same rate regardless of the originality. you just have to buy in at the right price.

with that said, never buy a car sight unseen and pick your inspector based on your requirements. for example, if you don't care about original engine, then you don't need to fly in an expensive super knowledgeable NCRS judge as an inspector.
and, attend the inspection, don't let the inspector go alone. you are paying him, you get to be there.

Been there, done that, as a seller and a buyer.
I had a potential buyer once hire an inspector on a car I was selling stating that my car was missing some 68 only parts. problem was my car was a 70 and I had to waste my time writing a detailed rebuttal to the report.