SDS Photography

I'm fleshing up my '68 BB. My brakes are horrendous, so I started reading here on what to do to upgrade. I was shocked that every thread did not say to buy the biggest chome-ist brakes I can afford, It seems the factory parts will work through a lot of abuse, so all I need to do is have the calipers rebuilt, possibly new pads and rotors, and stainless steel lines? Or would it be smarter to just buy already rebuilt calipers?

Are there any better or worse stainless steel lines?

ratflinger

Stainless steel sleeved calipers with o-rings, although you will get a good argument for lip seals here also. Rotors depend upon wear, don't change them just for the hell of it. I don't know who is doing the best brake lines anymore, Corvette Central used to sell good sets so I assume they still do.

427SIXPACK

OEM from Corvette Stainless Brake INC Gainsville FL.

Click here >>>> https://www.cssbinc.com/

Bikespace

CSSB Inc. is what I'd recommend (unless you want aluminum Wilwoods), especially if you want to try a DIY rebuild (assuming you already have stainless bores in your calipers).

If you aren't driving your car in the snow, I can't see a reason to use stainless steel lines, unless you like the added challenge of making proper bends and seals.

Nowhere Man

the biggest down fall to oem brakes is the people who leave their car sit for long periods of time and tires people run

SDS Photography

As far as I know, my brakes are 100% stock - except now they have an upgrade to 0 PRESSURE. My last drive home was a bit worrisome.

So, should I buy a CSSB rebuild kit and have someone rebuild all 4? And just add new OEM style brake lines?

Bikespace

How long have you owned the car? I'd say there is a very slim chance that your calipers have not been sleeved and rebuilt in the past, but still a chance. If you have SS sleeves already, O-ring kits are probably your best bet.

If you are just going to have someone rebuild the calipers for you, CSSB sells already assembled calipers. I don't know if these are rebuilds, or new castings, though.

I've bought Lonestar rebuilds through Zip, that were original calipers, SS sleeved, and rebuilt.

carriljc

SDS Photography

I installed Wilwood brakes in 2012 just because Van Steel had a group sale on here. I was reluctant to spend the money but I went ahead and did it. It has turned out to be some of the best money I've spent on my old car. Haven't had brake problems since.... and that's about 11.5 years. Before that I was doing one wheel or another at least once per year. Here is the van steel link but you should also look around the web.
My kit came with SS hoses and all the hardware and fittings to bolt it all on.

http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1962

4-vettes

I run Stainless sleeved factory calipers. (for like 30 years) Russell brand Stainless flex lines in place of the rubber lines. Decent quality street type brake pads. Nothing crazy.
Factory rotors just never seem to wear out. In fact people that change them have more trouble than those of us who leave them be.
When I hit the brakes hard at 75 MPH. I'll lock up all 4.
Just about put ya through the windshield!
Just exchange your calipers for sleeved and rebuilt ones. Some Stainless flex lines. A good flush of your lines. And your good.

Tampa Jerry

The factory brakes work very well. They had a tendency to leak because the bores in the factory calipers rusted and caused brake fluid to leak past the seals and dust boots. Before you order any parts, pull the brake calipers off the car and open them up to determine if they have already been sleeved in stainless steel. If not , consider sending them off to be re-sleeved in stainless steel using O-ring pistons. If they have been re-sleeved and the bores are in good condition, order an O-ring kit and rebuild them yourself. It is really pretty easy. Also, consider replacing the four flexible brake lines at each corner if they are over five years of age. Use new clean Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid for rebuilding, filling and bleeding. There are a ton of posts on this topic on the C-2 and C-3 forums. GM used the same system for most of the 1965 model year through the 1982 model year. You can purchase an O-ring rebuild kit from most of the major vendors for under $200. I use Van Steel as they are local for me. If you have any questions, just ask. Good luck. Jerry

67:72

Go to the primary suspect first - the calipers.

SDS Photography

I will admit - brakes are something that worry me to work on myself. I am sure I can get them off the car, I am just not sure at reinstalling and burping correctly.

4-vettes

Well even if you feel the need to have a professional help you out. You now are at least informed. This will help you get the job done as you want it. Being knowledgeable helps a great deal. Your less likely to get ripped off if you know what your talking about.
.Doing it yourself isn't really that hard. That said. A number of people do have issues getting the brakes bleed up properly.

Rescue Rogers

CSSBinc sells the stuff to rebuild your own. Get the O ring kit.......You didnt say they were leaking so that is good. What are your brakes doing, are they spongey, hard, just slow you down, pull hard one way???

• usually the hard lines are fine, its the rubber lines that collapse.and make it hard to push the pedal, or worse they lock up your brakes and wont release. replace those first
• replacing the brake fluid by bleeding it all out and refilling with fresh is always a good idea... you need to when you replace those rubber lines
• rebuilding a non-leaking caliper will do nothing for stopping your car...save this for last resort
• have your rotors turned or if they are flat scuff them yourself and go with ceramic brake pads, once organics get hot or contaminated they are junk and will be like stepping on a brick...this is the biggest thing you can do to have a quick stopping brake system aside from going to power brakes

gregb2121

If one has calipers that do not have the stainless inserts, anyone recommend someone to install the inserts or does one just buy a rebuilt caliper with the stainless inserts already installed.

F4Gary

I stayed with lip seals. Nothing wrong with them. I called Lone Star Caliper and asked if there was a place near me that sold their calipers. Turns out Corvette World does and they were about $81 with exchange.

Rescue Rogers

I have one without the stainless inserts. The inserts was to solve the water corrosion pitting. If you dont have pitting there is no reason to replace it. And go with the O ring seal kit

SDS Photography

I have to go all the way to the floor to get it to make any attempt to stop.
Tbh, I have not even checked the fluid levels - I just moved the car from my parents' house a few weeks ago. I will start there. But if it is low, then there has to be a leak. Right?

Rescue Rogers

IF its low and goes low again after filling bleeding then yes, there has to be a leak. finding it may be less of an issue unless you dont see it at the calipers. There has been folks here that had the master bleed into the brake booster if you have power brakes. Start there like you said and get a good bleed through all the brakes...you start at the passenger rear outside, then inside, then drivers then passenger front and drivers last. the pedal going to the floor is bad and you cant find the main issue until you get a good pedal

OMF

It doesn't really sound like your savvy with the wrenches to be able to fix this yourself.....I'd come and help you if you were in my neighborhood, but there's no way I'm traveling to the middle of the earth to provide assistance.
Post up where your at and maybe someone will offer to help you out.
There's no need to be scared of Vette brakes, they are just a little different than normal Chevy brakes.