dw886

According to the TechLink article here (https://gm-techlink.com/?p=18502), the following conditions must be met to enable stealth mode:

March

Thanks for the link. There are some things I did not know about.

DIPPOLD

Yes, they are the Pearl Nickel. However I am thinking of having them turned into Black Chrome by Wheel Craft.

March

My Dealer installed 2 underbody strikes and possibly removed the Stall Gurney Flaps from the front wheel The track prep guide does not indicate the Strikes are to be installed in any case. I think the Track Prep Guide is Wrong. I have the ZER package and no front splitter. What do you other ERay owners with the ZER package and no spitter have on you car? Here is the Track Prep Guide link https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...uide_Final.pdf

One strike on each side installed.

JerryU

For the OP. That is the procedure that is in the Owner's Manual FOR TRACKING. GM refers to it as burnishing. But if you Google to find out more about what it does and why needed, most folks use is the word bedding. So that is what I use.

Unless you are at a Track (and even then) hard to find a place to perform the several 25 times braking procedure from high speed and required cooling without stopping. Also for street driving no need to get the brakes as hot as the Track procedure will produce. In street driving you will never get that hot. The key thing you are trying to do is get a uniform layer of pad material on the rotor.

This is what I used on my E-Ray and now get "good" stopping with pads at room temperature to "great" when warm and hot..They will never get to a higher temp that they did with my procedure than they achieved with my "bedding" procedure then will see with my aggressive street driving:

• First, as the GM procedure notes, can skip Step 1 IF you have >200 miles.
• So, with high spots probably worn-in I started Bedding with ~200 miles in a modified Step 2 + 3 with Cool Down.
• Found a ~15 mile long two lane road with few intersecting roads so few cars entered.
• I applied the brakes aggressively from 60 mph to 5 to 10 mph with their suggested ~0.8 “g” not activating ABS.
• Drove for a minute (~1 mile) to let that layer of pad material bond with the rotor.
• REPEATED 10 TIMES.
• Then continued to drive 5+ miles without applying the brakes to allow rotors to fully cool.

If you want the full details of bedding (which I have used with other street driven Vettes) and other info this is a PDF I made that outlines and gives info from other sources re bedding: http://netwelding.com/E-Ray_PDI.pdf