djkocer@gmail.com

Trying to figure out how to get the drive shaft off. I already removed the the 4 bolts and the 2 U shaped pins (around the knuckle) at the front of the drive shaft, but the shaft is still resting on a metal plate and can't figure out how to slide or pull it off. Is there some way to pull the shaft back off the metal plate?

Frankie the Fink

I'm not a C2 guy but I think you are working on the wrong end. Take the rear U-joint loose then tape around those bearing caps if you don't want a disaster. Then simply slide the slip yoke forward towards the front and drop the rear of the shaft and pull it out. That's the C1 method; if a C2 requires anything different then I'm sure somebody will chime in. May just be paranoia on my part but I always mark the shaft and the tranny tailshaft and pinion area so the shaft goes back in the way it came out (they are balanced as you know)...

1snake

Take the U bolts off both the front and the rear of the driveshaft, push the yolk further into the transmission, move the driveshaft forward to give you enough room to drop the rear u-joint out of the rear end. Leave the yolk in the tranny.

Jim

Pilot Dan

The C2 driveshaft is a little different, it's also got 2 U bolts in the front that hold it to the yoke. Remove those and push the yoke all the way forward in to the tranny which will allow you the clearance for the driveshaft to easily be removed. Pilot Dan

Powershift

The C2 cars are a bit different than C1s. The driveshaft can be disconnected from BOTH the rear end pinion yoke and from the transmission output yoke. Once you do this, you push the transmission output yoke back into the transmission rear case a few inches to provide the clearance to remove the u-joints and driveshaft. It's still a tight fit, but it (driveshaft) can be removed. It should remove by sliding rearward and out after disconnecting all 4 u-bolts and 8 nuts.

If your 1967 is a big block car, it uses a slightly different means to secure the u-joints, but the procedure is basically the same for both SB and BB cars.

This should all be listed in the 1967 Chevrolet Service Manual.

Match-mark the driveshaft and tape the u-joint caps to keep everything together and help in re-assembly.

Now if a previous owner used/installed a regular transmission output yoke that doesn't have the break-away feature, than you have a slightly bigger problem.

Larry

djkocer@gmail.com

Thx guys! I'll give it another shot tonight. This frame off restoration is going to be a long haul

dave

djkocer@gmail.com

Does the yoke easily push forward toward the tranny?

Frankie the Fink

OK - I stand edumicated. I try not to give C2 advice. I'll have to try harder.

Powershift

It should, unless you have rust or grease/oil/dirt buildup on the surface. If needed use a SMALL plastic mallet/hammer to gently knock it in.

The main interference is the transmission rubber oil seal. You may want to replace this as part of your repair/restoration. It can be done with the trans in the car. They get hard over time and don't seal very well.

Larry

Kerrmudgeon

Just a thought here, but if you don't know how to re and re a driveshaft, and you're starting a body off restoration, perhaps you should hit the books for a while first, otherwise you're in for a LOT of mistakes, some of which are irreversible and PAINFUL!

djkocer@gmail.com

Kerrmudgeon... I don't disagree about hitting the books; which i have. The problem is the car is 45 yrs old and there is lots of rust; never been touched. Parts don't move like they should...or things don't appear as they seem when looking upside down at yrs of rust and greese. The point of the forum is to receive help from others that have been thru the process. ....and yes i have removed a drive shaft before.....but not on a 45 yr old car

Dan Hampton

Just a little more of unsolicited advice. If you are tearing apart the rearend/suspension (Kerrmudgeon indicated that this a body off) you are probably going to need a power hammer and a torch; otherwise, with a 45 yr. old, untouched rear area, you are going to have a lot of frustration ahead of you. Be very careful when disassembling the strut rod/shock supports. It is very easy to break the webbing on the support and that will be a costly mistake. Look things over carefully before hammering away.

Dan Hampton

Repeat

1snake

That's applicable to most cars but it depends on where the car lived its life. Maybe he'll be lucky. I completely dis-assembled both my 60 and 65, never used an impact gun, torch or anything other than basic hand tools and never stripped or broke a single bolt. Gotta love those desert cars.

Jim

djkocer@gmail.com

thx guys! I do appreciate the help from those that have been thru the process. I must say i have never restored a car before, but have put a many wrenches to cars over the yrs. I inherited this car 12 yrs ago from my father in-law and it is an unmolested car except the rear exhaust was changed to side exhaust. I have enjoyed it for 12 yrs but the time has come to do something with the car due to oil leaks, etc. I love this car for the looks and besides my wife and i had some wedding pictures taken in it. I know I'm in for a long process but I plan to do this car justice. Thx again

Dave

Redd Fox

HELP, I removed the engine and trans on my 67 c2 but am haveing trouble removing the rear u-bolts on the driveshaft. Do I need to remove the lower differential support to be able to reach the u-bolts ?
If so how do I do that as the support bolts seem too long to clear. Thanks for the help !

Bluestripe67

As a side note, you have posted to a 12 yr old post. Always best to start a new one.
What exhaust do you have, under body or side exhaust? It may make a difference, but for now try unbolting the forward mount bolt, loosen the rear one and swing the mount down. Also make sure your tires are off the ground and the e-brake is released. Rotate the shaft as necessary. Dennis

Redd Fox

Thanks, I am not too good at this posting thing. I got the driveshaft off by using a bunji cord to pull the exhaust pipes tword each other which rotated the rear part of the exhaust far enough away so I could get a box wrench on the u bolts.