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As you might have guessed, I'm having trouble with my power windows on my '75 L82. Actually just one.
Passenger side goes up and down, driver's side does not. Like, nothing. no noise, whining, clunking, nothing.
I've looked at more videos and more threads than I care to admit, but it seems to be a bit unique in that only one side works. I took the center console around the parking brake off and I do seem to have power at both switches.
Which leads my novice self to deduce that the switch is bad or the motor is bad.
If the passenger side is working, that means the relay behind the gauges should be good, right?
Before I start ordering parts and tearing into the dash, I just wanted to "talk" about it with someone(s) that can say if I'm on the right path or out in left field.
As you might have guessed, I'm having trouble with my power windows on my '75 L82. Actually just one.
Passenger side goes up and down, driver's side does not. Like, nothing. no noise, whining, clunking, nothing.
I've looked at more videos and more threads than I care to admit, but it seems to be a bit unique in that only one side works. I took the center console around the parking brake off and I do seem to have power at both switches.
Which leads my novice self to deduce that the switch is bad or the motor is bad.
If the passenger side is working, that means the relay behind the gauges should be good, right?
Before I start ordering parts and tearing into the dash, I just wanted to "talk" about it with someone(s) that can say if I'm on the right path or out in left field.
Thanks in advance!
You might want to try cleaning the contacts before ordering reproduction switches. Simple job...
I agree that the relay is good if one side works.
Test the bad switch or swap from one side to the other.
You may have a break in the wire that runs through the conduit that fits between the door and the frame.
On the window motor, there is a two wire connector, power to one wire sends the window UP, power to the other wire sends the window DOWN. The motor gets a ground from being mounted to the door.
Good video, of all the ones I did see, that's new. Thank you.
[QUOTE=Peterbuilt;1607784203]I agree that the relay is good if one side works.
Test the bad switch or swap from one side to the other.
You may have a break in the wire that runs through the conduit that fits between the door and the frame.
On the window motor, there is a two wire connector, power to one wire sends the window UP, power to the other wire sends the window DOWN. The motor gets a ground from being mounted to the door.
What would cause the break in the wire in the conduit? Just age?
Switch out the switches.Process of elimination.My guess would be bad switch
Relay and everything on that side would take out both windows
Just plug the drivers wire onto the passenger switch and see what happens.
If not that, you'll need to get at the motor for the next steps
M
make sure you have a good ground for the motor. It gets grounded thru the door, but after many years rust and crud might make the ground not good enough. Those motors pull a lot of juice. Just another simple thing that I would do first. Good luck.
First step would be to check if there's power coming out of the plug when you push the switch
I believe 75 was the last year they used motors with two sets of windings, one for up and a different one for down, The motor plug has two connections, one for up and the other for down. The negative was through the motor housing. Ground your test light and stick the probe into either spot on the plug and hit the switch, I'll guess the wiring is fine unless it got pinched/cut somewhere.
As Kanvasman says, double check the ground on the motor JIC it's crapped
You can carefully test the motor with a battery and some jumper wires just be careful not to connect the positive to both of the terminals on the motor at the same time,
M
It could also be both the motor and wires. In my case the motor was bad and one of the wires was broken somewhere between the switch and the motor. The window would go in one direction, but not the other. I thought I had done something wrong, until I switched the wires around and it worked in the opposite direction.
It could also be both the motor and wires. In my case the motor was bad and one of the wires was broken somewhere between the switch and the motor. The window would go in one direction, but not the other. I thought I had done something wrong, until I switched the wires around and it worked in the opposite direction.
On my 1972, about 12yrs ago, I had a broken wire in the rubber tube that runs from the body to the door.
Traced the break to the mid pint, so after years of flexing the wire just gave out.
Unfortunately trying to solder the two ends together wasn’t going to work, the wire was no longer a “copper” colour, but had a greenish tinge to it.
Solder wouldn’t stick no matter how much I cleaned or what flux I used.
Made a temporary fix with a small crimp (without the plastic cover) connection and a little bit of heat shrink.
Windows worked again.
I then ordered a new harness from Lectric Limited at the same time as I was about to do a engine removal and was replacing the forward harness.
That crimp is still there to this day and the new harness is in my spares box…..
One thing to try ( worked on my 82) is if the window is up ,with the car running, hold the switch for the window to go down and slam the door. Note: Not so hard as to damage anything. Did this on mine and it's been working ever since. The car did sit undriven a number of years by PO. Easy to try w/o removing anything, good luck!
They are not factory connections, there is suppose to be a molded plug on the end of the wires.
definitely not, even I could tell that! Makes me a little worried about what they did.
Also found out why the lock doesn't work....the lower connection between the know and the locking mechanism isn't even there!!
The original plug might have been busted and they replaced with normal spade connectors. Finding a proper pigtail isn't always easy.
Here's what the plug looked like (ignore the extra ground, I added that while I was putting power locks in, ran a ground all the way back into the car to the birdcage... belt and suspenders)
Make sure you have some slack, strip another 1/2" or so off the wires and check. If it's not good then you'll have to see where it went bad, (I'd run 2 new wires right back to the switch if it was me)
Also a good time to check the motor to make sure it's ok
M
okay, so dumb question, but if I were to run a wire from the positive terminal of the battery directly to the motor, if it was functional, should it work?
The only part I don't understand is the lack of ground. There's no ground wire that I can see anywhere near the window motor and I don't know if I need to have that in order to test it.
05-06-2024, 02:36 PM
yet another power window thread
