Dropping the front cradle/subframe in Katy today
08-14-2011, 10:12 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Dropping the front cradle/subframe in Katy today
If anyone's bored, I'll be in the garage trying to replace my oil pan gasket that's leaking. Nothing better than a fresh engine just getting finished up last week and now having to replace an oil pan gasket this week. Tuning is scheduled for Thursday right now, so I'm trying to get this damn leak fixed asap.
08-14-2011, 10:24 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Since it's a new engine, Are you sure it is not the rear main leaking? Possibly the rear cover not centered? Hopefully it the oil pan, That is much simplier to repair.
08-14-2011, 02:24 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
No, it's definitely the oil pan...we re-used the old gasket because I was told that they do not need to be replaced. Guys around here claim to use them 3-4+ times with no issue. I was not so lucky. Subframe is down, oil pan is off and cleaned. Going to look up where the new silicone bead is supposed to be applied, then we will begin putting it back together.
08-14-2011, 03:06 PM
#4
Drifting
It should be just at the corners where the front and rear covers meet up with teh block and the pan. The 4 spots where there is a small gap.
Is your garage air-conditioned?
Is your garage air-conditioned?
08-14-2011, 05:06 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
No, no air con in my garage. But we got it finished up. Only problem is that the baby is asleep so I am not allowed to start it to check for leaks.
The only places I put any RTV black was in the 4 corners near the front and rear cover gaskets. Then just did the two rounds of torque at 140 N/m and then at 220 N/m. But she's all back together...took about 5 hours total. Just wish I could start it and see if I fixed the problem or not. If it still leaks out the pan, I'm not sure what else to do.
The only places I put any RTV black was in the 4 corners near the front and rear cover gaskets. Then just did the two rounds of torque at 140 N/m and then at 220 N/m. But she's all back together...took about 5 hours total. Just wish I could start it and see if I fixed the problem or not. If it still leaks out the pan, I'm not sure what else to do.
08-14-2011, 07:50 PM
#8
Racer
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Location: Katy Texas
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08-15-2011, 12:28 AM
#9
Drifting
08-15-2011, 01:08 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Started it and it leaked again....so I took it all apart again, then added RTV black to the pan and the block and re-set the gasket, put it all back together and I am now waiting the 24hrs for the RTV to set fully before I add any oil. During the 2nd removal, I had a friend come over who builds engines and we checked out the block for anything that could cause an issue, we looked over the pan and only saw one spot that was maybe .0015 bowed, but he doesn't think that was enough to leak. The engine had some scratches on it, so we put a thin layer of sealant around the entire engine block, added thicker beads on the front and rear cover gasket points, then added a thin layer of silicone to the pan 6" in both directions of the leak. If this doesn't work, I give up. We did get our time down to under 4hrs and that was with quite a bit of time spent checking and double checking everything. Nothing is jumping out as the issue. The engine never leaked before, had the engine built, got it back and now I just getting frustrated with it. I really hope this latest attempt made the difference, but we'll find out tomorrow.
08-15-2011, 03:49 AM
#11
Drifting
Sorry to hear that man. I hope that fixes it for you but I think the rubber part of the oil pan gasket should be able to fill in any tiny little gaps in the block and pan surface.
08-15-2011, 08:04 AM
#12
Instructor
Man that sucks. I remember a ZR1 that the dealer could not get to stop leaking. It ended up being a extremely small hole from casting. It would not leak when on the rack but when driving it would dump a ton.
I don't know if you used all new or rebuilt some of the old, just a thought....
I don't know if you used all new or rebuilt some of the old, just a thought....
08-15-2011, 08:50 AM
#14
Instructor
Figured I would throw it out there..... good luck figurig it out. I feel your pain. Had to pull the torque tube and rear twice when I did my clutch. Its not fun putting it back together and hoping nothing goes wrong....
08-15-2011, 12:10 PM
#15
Instructor
Member Since: Mar 2011
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It could be the rear main leaking out behind the rear cover, making it look like it's the oil pan.
Unless you've already mentioned that you found the specific leak location.
Is there oil blowing all over the back of the motor?
Unless you've already mentioned that you found the specific leak location.
Is there oil blowing all over the back of the motor?
08-15-2011, 12:40 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
It is from a specific location towards the front middle of the pan. There is oil going everywhere while it leaks and I drive....so kids, remember. Don't leak and drive.
08-15-2011, 07:24 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Well, let it sit for 24hrs and fired it up.....and......leak! Damn it. Taking it to the shop later this week to see what's going on with it. Not sure if the pan is cracked, if the step on the front and rear covers is not allowing for a proper seal, etc...but regardless she is leaking still. So much for tuning on Thursday, maybe she'll be ready by September.
08-15-2011, 11:18 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
That is all I can assume at the moment. There is a small step on both the front and rear covers compared to the bottom of the block. I assumed they were small enough for the gasket and RTV to seal up, but obviously something is off. I am taking it to the engine builders shop this weekend for them to pull it apart and see what's up. I can't look at the underside of my car right now without wanting to break something.