Replacement gear in headlight motor?
#1
Safety Car
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St. Jude Donor '05
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Replacement gear in headlight motor?
After the last few weeks of not having the headlamp door closing all the way, I took the motor apart.
Does anyone know where you can buy a replacement gear? Obviously the dealer wants to sell the whole assy. I haven't checked Mid America yet but wondering if anyone knew of any place of the top of their head.
Thanks,
Mark
Does anyone know where you can buy a replacement gear? Obviously the dealer wants to sell the whole assy. I haven't checked Mid America yet but wondering if anyone knew of any place of the top of their head.
Thanks,
Mark
#2
MONARTOR
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St. Jude Donor '03
Grumpy's got you covered. Definitely go with the brass replacement. You'll probably never have to do it again. Can't believe GM uses 80's Fiero motor on the C5 but then I guess that's how the keep the price tag down. Good Luck!
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St. Jude Donor '05
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Guys, thanks. I did a search and apparently did type in the right thing... couldn't get the answers I needed. Much appreciated.
Ordered the brass.
Mark
Ordered the brass.
Mark
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I just ordered a set from the following web site - http://www.rodneydickman.com - $83.00 for a pair, including the shipping.
#7
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Its a breeze I done mine in about 30 minutes or so. Love those brass gears. The $33 dollars for one was worth the money. I had to repalce the drivers side. Never have to worry about that side again. Thanks Ron
#8
I have a couple of plastic Motormite Help brand gears that I picked up when some forum members inquired about them. (Brand new in retail packaging.) Have 3 sitting in my office. If I recall, the price was in the $20 range. PM me and I'll send you a price with shipping, and payment via Paypal.
Last edited by CE2004; 01-22-2005 at 09:08 AM.
#9
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St. Jude Donor '05
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Originally Posted by CE2004
I have a couple of plastic Motormite Help brand gears that I picked up when some forum members inquired about them. (Brand new in retail packagine.) Have 3 sitting in my office. If I recall, the price was in the $20 range. PM me and I'll send you a price with shipping, and payment via Paypal.
Man, I wish I had read that part first. Obviously the brass ones are better but for as easy and simple as they are to replace, I would have stuck the plastic ones back in if I could have gotten them.... besides, they last over 40K miles, I'm sure they would have lasted a while longer.
But alas, I ordered one from Mid America... and since I wanted it ASAP, I paid around 40sum bucks for the brass one and 30 something to ship it next day.
Thanks anyways...
Mark
#10
Originally Posted by MyBlueC5
I paid around 40sum bucks for the brass one and 30 something to ship it next day.
I think there's a case to be made for the design of the nylon OE type gear. The best argument I've heard is that when there's a problem/obstruction, the nylon gear will simply strip preventing damage to your expensive headlight motor assembly. Brass gears don't strip.
Anyway, I have three of the nylon gears here on my desk if the forum folks can't find them locally. Just PM me.
#11
I can see this being a future mod for me. My left headlight every now and then refuses to go up/down.
Until I raise it manualy under the hood then it will raise and lower again with the switch.
Until I raise it manualy under the hood then it will raise and lower again with the switch.
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St. Jude Donor '05
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Blazer,
Replacing the gear is a 10 minute deal.
Raise the headlamps.
Remove the screws that hold the plastic bezel around the headlamp.
Remove (3) 10mm bolts holding the motor to the headlamp assy. (one is a bolt with a nut on the end, the other two are just bolts)
Unplug the wiring to the motor.
Remove (3) 7mm bolts holding the cover for the gear.
Replace gear, reinstall.
Literally a 10 minute fix.
Mark
Replacing the gear is a 10 minute deal.
Raise the headlamps.
Remove the screws that hold the plastic bezel around the headlamp.
Remove (3) 10mm bolts holding the motor to the headlamp assy. (one is a bolt with a nut on the end, the other two are just bolts)
Unplug the wiring to the motor.
Remove (3) 7mm bolts holding the cover for the gear.
Replace gear, reinstall.
Literally a 10 minute fix.
Mark
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The Sticky has a link to the brass gears and another link to instructions w/pictures for replacing it.
CE2004, thanks for the tips on the plastic gears. I prefer to stick with the plastic gears, and have been wondering for a long time if replacement plastic gears existed since I do not want the heavier metal gears. I will add your info to the Sticky....even though I may be the only person here finicky enough about weight to prefer lighter plastic gears over more stronger metal gears.
Eugene
CE2004, thanks for the tips on the plastic gears. I prefer to stick with the plastic gears, and have been wondering for a long time if replacement plastic gears existed since I do not want the heavier metal gears. I will add your info to the Sticky....even though I may be the only person here finicky enough about weight to prefer lighter plastic gears over more stronger metal gears.
Eugene
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St. Jude Donor '05
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Leaftye,
The sticky is a great post but just for the record, it is completely unneccessary to remove the headlamp assy to pull the motor off to get to the gear.
Not flaming that method, just trying to make it as easy and fast as possible.
Mark
The sticky is a great post but just for the record, it is completely unneccessary to remove the headlamp assy to pull the motor off to get to the gear.
Not flaming that method, just trying to make it as easy and fast as possible.
Mark
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Man, I wish I had read that part first. Obviously the brass ones are better but for as easy and simple as they are to replace, I would have stuck the plastic ones back in if I could have gotten them.... besides, they last over 40K miles, I'm sure they would have lasted a while longer.
But alas, I ordered one from Mid America... and since I wanted it ASAP, I paid around 40sum bucks for the brass one and 30 something to ship it next day.
Thanks anyways...
Mark
But alas, I ordered one from Mid America... and since I wanted it ASAP, I paid around 40sum bucks for the brass one and 30 something to ship it next day.
Thanks anyways...
Mark
I found it a little difficult getting the part out without moving the headlight assembly. I did get it out, but it took my a couple hours
There is not much room to work with to get in there with the headlight assembly still intact. I must have big hands.
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Burning Brakes
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Does anyone know if this procedure is the same for those of us who installed aftermarket light housings such as ACA? I would think it would be considering the gear is separate from the housing, however I am curious if there are any special steps or cautions that need to be taken.