Some have PM's me asking about detailing..so here is the engine detailing process>>
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Some have PM's me asking about detailing..so here is the engine detailing process>>
Of course this is how I do it and done it for many years in preping for concours...since we all have new C6s (or you will have) no need for aggressive actions but I will say I did this process when I first got my C6 and it GREATLY improved the engine bay appearance
So here is my formula for a great looking engine compartment:
Detailing the engine
First a ‘NOT what to do’ list:
• Never use the so called engine cleaners available in stores such as ‘Gunk Engine Cleaner’ or ‘Engine Steem’…all of these products are way too chemically aggressive and will damage metal parts, paint and hoses.
• NEVER have the engine steam cleaned at a commercial engine cleaning place. This process is only good if the intent is to clean an engine as part of a total rebuilding process such as in restoring a car.
• Use caution in power washing an engine. Even though modern engines are fairly well sealed, high-pressure water can make its way into connectors and electronic components of the engine compartment.
Now to ‘how to’:
• NOTE: this is not in reference to the C6 but other cars you may have with this condition: Although this is optional, I would strongly suggest doing this if this is the first engine cleaning…remove the under engine compartment plastic pan. The reason I say optional is simply removing this item is a pain due to number of connectors holding it on to the body and having to work under car, but with that said you will be amazed the amount of crud that collects on the pan.
• For cleaning agent use LiquiTech 421 MPC (this is excellent and can be used on wheels, wheel wells etc) and is available at www.myroadster.net . If you cannot obtain the 421 MPC then a reasonable substitution are the citrus-based cleaners available in all grocery stores. Sold under different names but usually is in a pump spray bottle and container is orange looking.
• Spray down the outside the engine compartment painted surfaces with water (NOT the inside of the engine compartment yet). Now spray with the cleaner the entire engine compartment (engine should be cool) and let sit for 5 minutes. Also if there is a particularly stubborn area use a brush (toothbrush works well) to work in cleaner.
• Now thoroughly spray down entire engine compartment and adjoining painted surfaces (fenders, front fascia etc) until all cleaner/dirt has been washed away.
• This next step is strictly based on having access to compressed air or a leaf blower (electric type or a side discharge exhaust type; BEWARE that some gas blowers actually exhaust thru the air coming out of the blower and DO NOT use this type)…blow engine compartment off. This gets water out of all the compartment crevices and crannies. Now dry off everything accessible with a towel. Pop off engine covers (such as the engine head covers) and dry off.
• Now start engine and let run for a couple minutes.
• If there is any remaining items such as cosmoline on engine compartment (cleaners generally will not remove cosmoline or paraffin based coatings) use Stoners XENIT Cleaner on a rag and wipe off. I use a lot of the Stoners product line and is excellent and can be ordered from www.moreshine.com or purchased at automotive stores.
• To finish process lightly spray engine and plastic pieces with Stoners Trim Shine LIGHTLY!. Close hood and with damp cloth wipe down fenders, windshield etc. just in case there was any over spray (Trim Shine will NOT harm painted surfaces but if left on will leave a film). Start engine and let run for 5 minutes or so…cures the Trim Shine. Open hood and behold one beautiful engine.
• If removed now re-install the cleaned under engine compartment pan.
• Important last step…get stool and beer...now sit and look at results of your efforts…smile a lot .
If any one wants I can do explanation for other detailing techniques for other portions of the car. For now though I would recommend Stoners Invisible Glass for windows and Stoners More Shine in Less Time for the tires…use these products and you will never use anything else!
Michael
So here is my formula for a great looking engine compartment:
Detailing the engine
First a ‘NOT what to do’ list:
• Never use the so called engine cleaners available in stores such as ‘Gunk Engine Cleaner’ or ‘Engine Steem’…all of these products are way too chemically aggressive and will damage metal parts, paint and hoses.
• NEVER have the engine steam cleaned at a commercial engine cleaning place. This process is only good if the intent is to clean an engine as part of a total rebuilding process such as in restoring a car.
• Use caution in power washing an engine. Even though modern engines are fairly well sealed, high-pressure water can make its way into connectors and electronic components of the engine compartment.
Now to ‘how to’:
• NOTE: this is not in reference to the C6 but other cars you may have with this condition: Although this is optional, I would strongly suggest doing this if this is the first engine cleaning…remove the under engine compartment plastic pan. The reason I say optional is simply removing this item is a pain due to number of connectors holding it on to the body and having to work under car, but with that said you will be amazed the amount of crud that collects on the pan.
• For cleaning agent use LiquiTech 421 MPC (this is excellent and can be used on wheels, wheel wells etc) and is available at www.myroadster.net . If you cannot obtain the 421 MPC then a reasonable substitution are the citrus-based cleaners available in all grocery stores. Sold under different names but usually is in a pump spray bottle and container is orange looking.
• Spray down the outside the engine compartment painted surfaces with water (NOT the inside of the engine compartment yet). Now spray with the cleaner the entire engine compartment (engine should be cool) and let sit for 5 minutes. Also if there is a particularly stubborn area use a brush (toothbrush works well) to work in cleaner.
• Now thoroughly spray down entire engine compartment and adjoining painted surfaces (fenders, front fascia etc) until all cleaner/dirt has been washed away.
• This next step is strictly based on having access to compressed air or a leaf blower (electric type or a side discharge exhaust type; BEWARE that some gas blowers actually exhaust thru the air coming out of the blower and DO NOT use this type)…blow engine compartment off. This gets water out of all the compartment crevices and crannies. Now dry off everything accessible with a towel. Pop off engine covers (such as the engine head covers) and dry off.
• Now start engine and let run for a couple minutes.
• If there is any remaining items such as cosmoline on engine compartment (cleaners generally will not remove cosmoline or paraffin based coatings) use Stoners XENIT Cleaner on a rag and wipe off. I use a lot of the Stoners product line and is excellent and can be ordered from www.moreshine.com or purchased at automotive stores.
• To finish process lightly spray engine and plastic pieces with Stoners Trim Shine LIGHTLY!. Close hood and with damp cloth wipe down fenders, windshield etc. just in case there was any over spray (Trim Shine will NOT harm painted surfaces but if left on will leave a film). Start engine and let run for 5 minutes or so…cures the Trim Shine. Open hood and behold one beautiful engine.
• If removed now re-install the cleaned under engine compartment pan.
• Important last step…get stool and beer...now sit and look at results of your efforts…smile a lot .
If any one wants I can do explanation for other detailing techniques for other portions of the car. For now though I would recommend Stoners Invisible Glass for windows and Stoners More Shine in Less Time for the tires…use these products and you will never use anything else!
Michael
#4
The Stoners glass cleaner is great but the best tire shine is put out by, who else.......ZAINO!
www.zainobros.com
www.zainobros.com
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by docrings1
It's in the FAQ now...
Thanks
Michael