Valentine1 (V1) install WITH PICS!
02-13-2005, 08:01 PM
#1
Instructor
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Location: North Richland Hills TX
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Just wanted to confirm for everyone with 1SB package the black wire in the mirror plug is ground. Like ALEVY said, the center red is powered only when the ignition is on.
I used Radio Shack Tap-In squeeze connectors, Part number 64-3053 to snap on to the wires. Just one suggestion if you do use tap-ins. Run a test first and make sure that the size of wire that you use will make connection with the tie-in before you install. This particular part number is for 18 to 22 gauge wire. One side of the tap-in is for 22 gauge and the other side is for 18 gauge. You can remove the metal slide and turn it around so the 22 Gauge side taps into the mirror plug wire.
I had to squeeze the 18 gauge side down a little to get a good connection for the radar detector wire. Just make sure you test before you go out and put them on the car.
I used Radio Shack Tap-In squeeze connectors, Part number 64-3053 to snap on to the wires. Just one suggestion if you do use tap-ins. Run a test first and make sure that the size of wire that you use will make connection with the tie-in before you install. This particular part number is for 18 to 22 gauge wire. One side of the tap-in is for 22 gauge and the other side is for 18 gauge. You can remove the metal slide and turn it around so the 22 Gauge side taps into the mirror plug wire.
I had to squeeze the 18 gauge side down a little to get a good connection for the radar detector wire. Just make sure you test before you go out and put them on the car.
02-17-2005, 04:39 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2005
Location: Austin, Texas Codes 660, 9448, and 295660 work in the C6 navigation unit. No DVD playback yet.
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Did this the other day, and just wanted to say that the directions are a little misleading and there's no pictures of what you need pictures of.
A few issues I had:
1. It will help if you remove both visor clips, though not nessessary.
2. Pull down on the headliner where it's normally obscured by the targa top. That's the reason for removing it. Originally, I tried to go in where the headliner meets the windshield.
3. Don't try to go through the hole where the passenger visor clip came from. The module won't fit in the hole. The only reason you remove this clip is for grounding and to allow the headliner enough flex to be able to force the module down under it (or over it, depending on your POV).
4. It's tricky to ground the wire to the passenger visor clip. Really tricky. We ended up taping the wire down so that the clip rested against the hole, then we screwed in the visor clip. When we tried to attach it to the screw, then force everything back up and screw it together, the open-ended clip would fall off the screw and not ground.
Had I known, and had a little more prep time, I would have secured a round grounding end and clipped that onto the V1 module's ground wire in place of the open-ended clip that was there. It would have saved me some heartache and about 15 minutes with a volt-ohm meter.
Otherwise, it went smooth and I could do another in about five minutes.
A few issues I had:
1. It will help if you remove both visor clips, though not nessessary.
2. Pull down on the headliner where it's normally obscured by the targa top. That's the reason for removing it. Originally, I tried to go in where the headliner meets the windshield.
3. Don't try to go through the hole where the passenger visor clip came from. The module won't fit in the hole. The only reason you remove this clip is for grounding and to allow the headliner enough flex to be able to force the module down under it (or over it, depending on your POV).
4. It's tricky to ground the wire to the passenger visor clip. Really tricky. We ended up taping the wire down so that the clip rested against the hole, then we screwed in the visor clip. When we tried to attach it to the screw, then force everything back up and screw it together, the open-ended clip would fall off the screw and not ground.
Had I known, and had a little more prep time, I would have secured a round grounding end and clipped that onto the V1 module's ground wire in place of the open-ended clip that was there. It would have saved me some heartache and about 15 minutes with a volt-ohm meter.
Otherwise, it went smooth and I could do another in about five minutes.
1996, c5, c6, connectors, corvette, install, installation, pics, radar, squeeze, tapin, v1, valentine, valentine1, voltohmmeter
