avvetteguy

Did anyone else have some rust in the holes of the drilled rotors when they first got their car? Is this anything to be worried about or need to be cleaned. I also noticed they squeak some, just wondering if it's because they are brand new.

JF244

Don't worry, be happy! You own a C6...with steel brake discs. Bare steel will rust. To clean, accelerate to 189 and apply brakes. Instant clean.

Seriously, no problem

73VetteMan

The rust in the holes is normal and unavoidable.

There have been a number of posts about the squeaking Z51 brakes. I have also noticed very bad black dusting of the wheels. Both situations are related to the metallic competition compound used with the Z51 optioned brake pads.

The solution is to replace the pads with CERAMIC pads. I have read that 2004 pads are the same as 2005. Pep Boys sells Raybestos ceramics for $88 front, $66 rear. Advance Auto stores offer Friction King at $60 #731 front and $57 #732 rear. I have not priced GM ceramics yet.

C6FirstVette

I have Porterfield R4S pads coming today...now if the C6 gets here this week pads will be on this weekend...have used Porterfields on all my cars for last 5 years and absolutley pleased...great performance pad and 85%+ less dust
M

Scissors

The drawback to this, of course, is that braking distances will increase.

REW89

..and this observation has been proved and if so, by whom? I would like to see some real world comparisons. Seriously interested in this not just trying to be contrary.

Bob

Scissors

First, by the fact that they don't come as standard equipment. They're not significantly more expensive than the stock pads and would be even cheaper with more massive production. With them being quieter and having less dust, GM would have nothing but a win/win/win situation on their hands by switching to them if there were no drawback in pad life (there isn't) or braking distances. GM wants good scores on paper, so they use the type of pad best suited to real-world braking performance. This would be the stock pads.

Secondly, there are many posts in the C5 sections detailing the experiences of those who switch to ceramic pads from stock. Almost all agree that dusting and noise are reduced significantly, but that braking distances increase.

jschindler

In other words, you are just guessing!

miami34

I have the same baby birds in my brakes ( Z51 ). The tech rep @ my dealership speaks with GM daily. I will keep all posted as to their resolution.

mikeyc6

There could be other reasons that GM chose the pads they chose, such as the stock pads having less of a tendency to warp the rotors.

Mike

DigitalGriffin

The Porche GT uses ceramics, and that beast stops on a dime. But they get so hot, they sometimes catch on fire! (No I'm not joking.)

Scissors

Unless things are out of alignment, "warping" of the rotors really isn't. What actually happens is that the rotors get heated up to a very high temperature and then the brake pads are left on them, which leaves deposits from the pads on the rotors. This is what happens when people brake incorrectly, such as braking to a stop from 60 MPH without coasting to let the rotors cool a bit. It is my understanding that ceramics are less likely to leave behind deposits than the stock pads do, mainly because of their lower friction (and thus longer stopping distances and lower rotor temperatures.)

Scissors

The Porsche GT also benefits from a superior distribution of mass, resulting in the rear wheels being allowed to take on a greater amount of the braking load and thus use more powerful brakes.

Look at how tiny the C5 and C6 rear brakes are when compared to the front. This is because of where the C5's mass is distributed and the resulting shift of braking load to the front wheels.

jschindler

I believe there is a lot of truth to this. I was given a set of Eradispeeds because a friend of mine was frustrated that they had "warped" and Bear would not warranty them. I spend about and hour with sandpaper just sanding all the surfaces, then put them on my car. They did not "pulse" at all. So I believe what I accomplished was to sand off the deposts as Scissors describes it. I'm willing on betting that not many people have ever thought to try this - just assuming that the brakes were warped.

Anyone else try this?

S22C6

The original question on this thread was about rotor rust on the Z51.

Then it got moved to squeaky brakes then to brake pads.

I have Z51 on order and am interested in the rotor rust question.
How do you stop it? or clean it? or do you just put up with it?

Scissors

You just put up with it.

The rotors contain iron--lots of it; and iron rusts very quickly when exposed to air and water. The only protection is to paint the non-contact areas with high-temperature paint. But beware: paint can interfere with the rotor's ability to shed heat.

nascosta

How is braking from 60 w/o coasting considered braking incorrectly?

VetteDrmr

You just put up with it. Especially in the holes, where the iron and brake pad particles will tend to accumulate.

Enjoy your new ride! I'm going to have to wait a while, at least until my kids are out of college in 2012.

Maybe I can get a good deal then with the C7 coming out!

Have a good one,
Mike

smokeyburnouts

thats the one problem w/ rims w/ alot of airspace. when my vette was being washed, i'd have a rust haze on the rotors in just that short period of time it was being washed....as soon as u pull away, itll pretty much be gone

Scissors

Because "warped" rotors are a bad thing.

What I do to prevent this kind of problem is to brake moderately hard down to about 35, I then let my foot off of the brake to allow the rotors to cool, and then I finish my stop when I get up to where I would normally brake from 35. High speed full stops are bad for your brakes.

Every time I've ridden in a car with someone who complains about how their rotors are always getting warped, I notice how they brake incorrectly (i.e. from high speeds to a complete stop without allowing for cooling.)

Remember that racing isn't like traffic. In racing you brake hard and generate a lot of heat, but you don't stop. Because of this the pads don't sit in one spot on very hot rotors and thus you get no deposits or "warpage."

Side note: There are ways to actually warp rotors. But what most people refer to as warped rotors are actually deposits on the surface left by pads sitting on overly hot rotors, not an actual change in the rotor's shape.