Shark Racer

My RF is warped, and old. I need new pads too, so I figure I'll get two new rotors and a set of pads for the nose. Can I just pop em on or do they need special prep?

Obviously I'll repack the bearings in the process. Is it worth buying new ones of these, too?

-Steve

SanDiegoPaul

Just pull them off and replace them. Use the best pad you can find and roll it! On mine the rotors were still riveted to the hubs, front and rear. Use a 5/16 drill to remove the rivets and the rotor falls off in your hands.

Z-man

Unless there is something bent or damaged with your spindles, this is one of the more straightforward maintenance projects you can do. I'd do the bearings while they're out - they don't add that much to the cost.

Corey_68

As stated if it's the original rotors you'll have to drill the rivets. Most C3 owners don't re-install the rivets, so if they have been changed prior to your owership it will go that much smoother.

Ak. Mal

If they have never been removed before, you will have to drill out the rivits. I think I used a 5/16" drill bit. I'm not 100% sure about that so please make sure that is the right size first. If the archives were up, I could dig out my threads asking this very question.

Not a very hard job, just one I hadn't expected.

ACECO

Yes, do the bearings while your at it. Who knows how old the current ones are? It only adds a few $$$ and may very well save you much cursing later when you have to take it all back apart again.

Good Luck!

Shark Racer

I've had the front rotors off before. I just wanted to make sure they didn't require any special machining process before being installed. Thanks for the advice. I'll do new bearings. Everything is stock 78(except the pads and calipers), but the rivets *are* gone.

Van Steel

Pacin
Don't forget you still have to have a low runout on the front rotors. It's not as crutial as the rear rotors but keep your run out at least 5 thou or under. I would definately put new bearings and seal on each side. Better safe than sorry.

Mr.Gearhead

Van Steel has an excellent and important point. DO NOT forget to check runout. You don't want to pump air into those calipers... leaky forecast ahead..

If you do have runout, rotate the rotor onto different stud locations. If you still have high runout.. pull off the rotor and check the spindle.

My spindle was crap... .009 runout... At this point.. you need to contact van steel and get a new one. I did and now total runout is .002. WAHOOOO

Derrick

Ironically, I just did this job the other day. Definitely replace your wheel bearings and races. I used a 1/4" drill bit to drill through the rivets, and then a screwdriver and hammer to bust the rivet heads off. Cake job. Torque specs for front bearings are 12 ft. lbs. - and then loosen and retighten with your bare hands. The front wheel bearings are easy, BUT.....don't mess with the rear wheel bearings unless you know what you're doing. The rear wheel bearings aren't what you think.....they're aren't like replacing wheel bearings that we've all done a million times. Take caution!

gliot1

Rivets on the front? As far as I know and have experiecned only the rears have rivets. Once you remove the spindle nut and caliper, the spindle will come right off. Have the spindle checked by a "real" auto parts store with machining capabilities. You may be able to have the rotors turned if the runout is not excessive. Most rotors from that era can be turned twice before replacing.

stpman

I just finished stripping the frame from my 74 and the front rotors are rivited.

Steve