Kara

How in the hell do you get that thing out of there? Please anyone. I am gettin frustrated here, 7 drill bits down the road! Advice any one??

marshrat99

Darn the bad luck. Been there, done that and bought the T shirt. Could you describe which bolt you're trying to get out? It would help us decide the best solution. My favorite way is to repetatively add lots of heat, squirts of Liquid Wrench when cool enough not to ignite, then cool to touch before heating again.

Another way is to use a small drill bit for a pilot hole. Make sure this pilot hole is centered. Next step up to a drill bit just under the size of the bolt. The idea here is to drill out the bolt but leave the threads. After drilling, use a tap to chase out the threads.

Kara

Its the easy out that I cant drill through. The little u joint bolts to the spindle on the trailing arm

LS-5 71

So,
You drilled out the bolt and the easy out broke off in the hole you drilled? This usually means your "SOL" 'cause the easy out is hardened steel. you will waste a lot of drill bits trying to drill through the easy out. Did it break off completely flush with the hole you drilled. I've had success using a chisel to back out the broken off portion Of the easy out.

Good luck & be patient these type of situations usually consume lots of time.

Jasonty

I've had good luck with both of the methods described above, but usually applying some heat with an oxy/acetalyne (sp?) torch will help out quite a bit. Buy yourself some very nice carbide bits, and keep at her.

jeaux

I did that on my Jeep windshield, do like that other fella said start small and invest in some drill bits. It is possible to drill it out takes alot of patience

Kara

Too dark I will continue tommorrow. Now I also have the problem of finding the little 12 point bolt. This is discouraging blah!

70ZZ3 96LT4

If I understand your post of what part the piece is broken in, take the part off the spindle to a machine shop that has a machine that will remove it. I can't remember the name of the machine, but I believe it uses electrical discharges to destroy the metal. Had this done to a water pump mounting bolt. Remember the technition saying it would of been best to bring it and let them do it instead of trying with the easy out.

Kara

This is not for the rear end cover I got those out with an easy out. I just broke this one off today and wanted to get it out, tired of the car just sitting. This is a totally different one though

Michel B

There is a way!!!!
I hope I explain it as best as posible,, this happens more often than I like in my line of work,, on aircraft.
Depending on the size and access, drill a 3/32 hole no more than 1/8 deep closess to the edge of the stud as possible, careful not to go beyond the circomference of the stud. Using a 3/32 or 1/8 punch, and hammer, try hitting and turning the stud. I realize that on planes, bolts are not as rusted as could be on a car, but this method realy works.
An other way is to use a pencil grinder with good carbide tips and carefully, and slowly grind the easyout. hope this helps.

VegasJen

at the point in which you find yourself (the best method short of removal of the entire assembly and allowing a machine shop to remove the offending bolt), is to WELD a new nut onto the broken bolt. typically, if you have access to a MIG welder, you can take an old, trash bolt and grind a fine point onto it. then with the welder, make a couple good solid tacks. often times, the very heat of the welder will loosen the broken bolt enough that a solid weld is not required. if it's really bad, a solid weld bead is the only way to do it.
obviously, if you don't own (or can't borrow) a welder or you don't know how to weld and don't know anybody who does, this won't help you much. but, you did ask!
good luck

FEDX

Another idea is depending on the hole size is to shatter the ez-out with a sharp center punch,then pick the pieces out with a scribe.Helps to have a pencil grinder handy though,thats the fast way.

Schmucker

Wait, is this near the wheel bearings? Adding heat to this area may not be a good idea as it would probably travel into the bearings.

UKPaul

Oops! Been here a few times! Clutchdusts suggestion is an excellent one, it's worked for me in a variety of cases, but if you can't use heat & you've not got a small grinder, then a set of cobalt tipped drills should do it (I think they're called cobalt???). They drill through plate glass & files like it was butter & I've used them to drill out EZouts (this is why I try to always avoid EZouts & use Clutchdusts suggestion wherever possible). The drills that I've got look like masonry drill bits & peoples biggest mistake is to run them at too slow a speed, you've got to really spin them fast & just plough on in there. At low speed they very often catch the work & shatter. This isn't funny as they're expensive & just when you think things can't get any worse you can end up with a cobalt drill tip wedged in with the EZout/tap
If you can get the part off the car then you can get it spark eroded, but make sure you try a few places & get a cost estimate from each. I once snapped a tap inside a helicoil in a head (the tang at the bottom of the helicoil snagged in the flute of the tap. If I'd have known that a helicoil was in there then I wouldn't have run a tap down it, but it was plugged with gasket snot & grime....). Anyway, one engineering shop told me that it would be cheaper to buy a new head than get it eroded by them! The place that finally did it charged me £20 ($35) & it was done by the next day (the helicoil was perfect afterwards, looked like it had just been inserted, & they also removed the offending tang).
If none of the above are possible then the above suggestion of trying to drill down the side of it is a good one. If you can drill down one side then, assuming the EZout is central, you'll be able to drill another couple of holes around it to give easy access & give it a bit of space to move in. Then get a small punch & working around the holes you've drilled, beat the crap out of it to shatter it. This can take some time, may cost a few drill bits, a black fingernail or two, & might need more drilling as parts of EZout snap off. Eventually you should be able to get the EZout to wobble, at which point you should be able to get it out. But then you've still got the problem of removing the bolt....
Good luch with it!

81ZZ4

You could have my Evil Ex wife look at it and the sucker will jump right out

theoUK

Nearly all of the "methods" for getting out broken bolts will work in one situation and not in another. The one that I have seen work most consistently is the welding trick. Where I used to work (so I know this does work!), we'd get a bit of flat stock, with thickness just over half the diameter of the offending screw/stud. Offer it up on the broken end of the stud, as central as possible. Then give it a couple of short sharp zaps with the mig, once on each side of the flat metal. Then you can get an adjustable spanner on the flat bar and turn the little bugger out. Also the heating/cooling of the screw through the welding has got to help a bit, by making it expand and contract, thereby (hopefully) breaking it's "seal" in the hole.
This could be a tricky method on the car and with very small screws, but it's about the most relaiable method I've seen/used.
Best of luck...

Red_Shift

I had the same problem with my Blazer. I broke an ez out in it. I spent a few hours and about 3 small grinding tips on a Dremel tool. I've also known the welding method to work too. Whatever you do good luck and stay patient.

Kara

Yeah it is near alot of rubber seals. This is a PITA. Thanks for all your advice still workin on it

Stoge

I kinda like this guy's idea!

Kara

I wish it was that easy