Rebuilding your own yokes
07-15-2004, 09:42 AM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Waterloo ontario Canada
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Rebuilding your own yokes
I just had someone email me asking about a past post on rebuilding you own yokes.
I have done this in the past, both the button and moving the groove.
This was my response to him
I rebuilt my own yokes but I have a machine shop to do the job. A rebuilt
yoke to me is better then new. New yokes are surface hardened on the end.
Rebuilt ones have buttons on the end that are hard all the way through.
A rebuilt yoke consists of hollowing out the end next to the pin then
inserting a hardened buttom about 1/4 inch thick. This button is pressed in
the end along with a 5/16 cap screw to hold it in place. These rebuilt yokes
never cause problems again.
I also will take an old yoke, measure the end hardness to be sure it is
still ok then cut a wider groove for the circle clip but I use 2 Two circle
clips to move the yoke closer to the pin and since the groove can be widened
both directions or only one all play can be taken out.
Say you stock play is .060, the absolute limit of play , you can cut the
groove .058 in one direction and if the clip is say and this is just picking
a number of say .080 you subtract the .058 from the .080 and move the
groove .022 the other way as well so when 2 clips are installed then fit
well and at the same time your endplay is reduced to .002.
Cutting the groove takes about 5 minutes and solves end play easily
Norval
I have done the groove thing on 3 different on different vets without any future problems.
I have done this in the past, both the button and moving the groove.
This was my response to him
I rebuilt my own yokes but I have a machine shop to do the job. A rebuilt
yoke to me is better then new. New yokes are surface hardened on the end.
Rebuilt ones have buttons on the end that are hard all the way through.
A rebuilt yoke consists of hollowing out the end next to the pin then
inserting a hardened buttom about 1/4 inch thick. This button is pressed in
the end along with a 5/16 cap screw to hold it in place. These rebuilt yokes
never cause problems again.
I also will take an old yoke, measure the end hardness to be sure it is
still ok then cut a wider groove for the circle clip but I use 2 Two circle
clips to move the yoke closer to the pin and since the groove can be widened
both directions or only one all play can be taken out.
Say you stock play is .060, the absolute limit of play , you can cut the
groove .058 in one direction and if the clip is say and this is just picking
a number of say .080 you subtract the .058 from the .080 and move the
groove .022 the other way as well so when 2 clips are installed then fit
well and at the same time your endplay is reduced to .002.
Cutting the groove takes about 5 minutes and solves end play easily
Norval
I have done the groove thing on 3 different on different vets without any future problems.
07-15-2004, 01:41 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Wisconsin
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I haven't actually looked in my differential yet, but would it be possible to slip washers over the yoke then reinstall the c-clip? I have about a quarter inch on one side and about an eighth on the other.
07-15-2004, 01:48 PM
#4
Team Owner
Bad Set
Hey Norval, I have a bad set laying around in a box somewhere. MidAmerica had a $30 core charge on my old ones 10-12 years ago when I replaced mine and I figured that it would cost half that in postage to send them back so I never did.
Do you want them?
My question to you are your rebuilds as good as my $480 a pair billet hardened steel units?
Do you want them?
My question to you are your rebuilds as good as my $480 a pair billet hardened steel units?
Last edited by gkull; 07-15-2004 at 01:50 PM.
