Radiator Decision (OEM, BeCool, etc)
#1
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
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Radiator Decision (OEM, BeCool, etc)
I'm about to install dual SPAL 11" and will pull the radiator at the adivse of forum members. Should this newbee consider replacing the 24 year old unit with a new OEM, BeCool or other?
My car runs OK temp wise but I get concerned on hot Dallas days (upper 90s) with the AC on as the temp guage hits 260+ with a 180 degree thermostat.
Appreciate any thoughts as this will be a sizable financial decision.
My car runs OK temp wise but I get concerned on hot Dallas days (upper 90s) with the AC on as the temp guage hits 260+ with a 180 degree thermostat.
Appreciate any thoughts as this will be a sizable financial decision.
#2
Melting Slicks
Re: Radiator Decision (80TexasC3)
Go with Dewitt. You won't be sorry. Perfect fit, great quality!
#3
Le Mans Master
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Re: Radiator Decision (80TexasC3)
I agree 100% with Kidvette!! Tom DeWitt is the best! Great guy and great products. He is a supporting vendor!
http://www.dewitts.com
Two for Tom DeWitt!
http://www.dewitts.com
Two for Tom DeWitt!
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St. Jude Donor '07
Re: Radiator Decision (Smokehouse69)
Do a search. There are some great topics on this subject.
I found that adding the electric fan did the most to lower the temp. That and adding new seals around the radiator and over the top of the shroud.
I found that adding the electric fan did the most to lower the temp. That and adding new seals around the radiator and over the top of the shroud.
#8
Instructor
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I bought an aluminum radiator from Tom DeWitt. Great fit, excellent product and terrific customer service. My temps stay around 185 without air on and 190/200 with air on crankin' down the highway - 90 degrees ambient temp.
Check out his website or call him.
Old Black Chevy/Travis :flag
Check out his website or call him.
Old Black Chevy/Travis :flag
#9
CFOT Attention Whore
HOLY CRAP! 260+ and you get "concerned"???!!! dude, you so need to check your heads. the thin cast iron heads used in these years are prone to easily overheating and cracking. in addition, you have another problem somewhere. if your running 260* with a mechanical fan, you have some type of cooling issue. do you have a fan shroud? maybe the radiator is just that plugged up. maybe your water pump impeller is just corroded to hell (you'll know that after you install the new rad/fans and the temp doesn't come down). you really need to do some investigating. how long has it been running that hot? on iron heads, especially these iron heads, i wouldn't like to see temperatures over about 230*
#10
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
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Yep... Car goes up on the lift and I plan to rebuild the front end and remove the trailing arms for shipment to Van Steel. These projects will take at least 30 days based on the time I will have to dedicate during that time of the year.
My goal right now is to get the interrior done, manage the heat in TX and get the stereo and alarm installed. Once I'm at that point...I'll take a breather and just play with small just for fun projects like the switch panel, etc.
My goal right now is to get the interrior done, manage the heat in TX and get the stereo and alarm installed. Once I'm at that point...I'll take a breather and just play with small just for fun projects like the switch panel, etc.
#11
Burning Brakes
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Others have said same thing....go with Tom Dewitt's products. I put a new aluminum factory style rad in this year, replacing a brass (not stock) rad of unknown vintage. Runs around 180 to 190, whether on the open road or in traffic. Used to run 220 and nudge higher if stuck in traffic....which is not good....
#13
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
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Mounting new SPAL on New Dewitt Radiator
How do I mount the new SPAL to a new Dewitt Radiator? SPAL has universal straps (dual 11") but I'm removing the shrowd.
I know this must be a stupid question... but just want to do it right!
Thanks...
I know this must be a stupid question... but just want to do it right!
Thanks...