Brake Troubles
#1
Racer
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Brake Troubles
on my '74, when you hit the brakes the car will pull hard to the left. You have to turn the wheel to the right while braking at speeds over 25 mph to keep it straight. I think it still has one original caliper on the RF wheel. Does this mean that that caliper is toast? Whould the car also be out of alignment? Can you guys help me out?
#2
Drifting
Re: Brake Troubles (68350hp)
I would say the RF caliper has some, if not all, of the pistons frozen. You check it by jacking up the front end and trying to turn the wheels while someone steps on the brake pedal. Or you can just pull the caliper and rebuild it. If it's frozen up, though, it may not be rebuildable.
#3
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Re: Brake Troubles (68350hp)
If it's pulling to the left, the right front caliper isn't braking as hard. Like previously mentioned, the pistons could be frozen. Another possibility that I've seen, the o-rings are shot and the fluid is spilling on the disk preventing it from braking properly. Get down on the driver's side and look at the inside of the right tire to see if you can see fluid that has spilled on the tire.
If your car tracks straight while driving in a steady state, your alingment is probably OK. It should go in a straight line when you are on a level smooth surface and you let go of the steering wheel (briefly, of course!).
Good luck
If your car tracks straight while driving in a steady state, your alingment is probably OK. It should go in a straight line when you are on a level smooth surface and you let go of the steering wheel (briefly, of course!).
Good luck
#4
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Re: Brake Troubles (68350hp)
I suspect brake fluid leaking past a piston seal in your calipers. I would remove all wheels and carefully inspect each for leaks. Corvettes are notorious for leaking calipers. If you find a leaker, or two, I would be removing all 4 and replacing same with rebuilt or new calipers with stainless steel sleeves. I had my original calipers resleeved stainless by Muskegon Brake 12 years ago and no leak since. Brakes now work great. Before that, every year I found a different piston leaking a bit, just enough to cause uneven braking. Remember vettes have 4 pistons per caliper, not like other GM cars that have a single piston in each caliper since 1970 or so.
#5
Drifting
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Re: Brake Troubles (bhawk)
If your rotor-runout is excessive, your calipers will suck air. Try bleeding your brakes first. If the problem persists, have your calipers sleeved, and use a VBP O-ring conversion
#6
Drifting
Re: Brake Troubles (zzyzx)
If you have a leaking caliper or one that's sucking air, you'll normally have a sinking or soft pedal. Does the pedal feel normal, the car just doesn't want to stop straight?
#8
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Re: Brake Troubles (w1ctc)
The rubber brake hoses can cause the pull also.
A few months ago, I replaced my calipers for the exact same problem. Except that it didn't go away!! :mad
All it needed was hoses. and a whole lot less money than I spent.
A few months ago, I replaced my calipers for the exact same problem. Except that it didn't go away!! :mad
All it needed was hoses. and a whole lot less money than I spent.
#9
Racer
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Re: Brake Troubles (bhawk)
The rear calipers bit the dust 2 years ago so there's we put stainless steel ones on and the LF caliper and master cylinder was replaced in '99. I have a feeling that the RF one is original.
[Modified by 68350hp, 10:56 PM 7/7/2004]
[Modified by 68350hp, 10:56 PM 7/7/2004]
#10
Melting Slicks
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Re: Brake Troubles (68350hp)
you should always replace calipers or rotors (or anything wheel related) in pairs. do both fronts at the same time, etc...
i suspect caliper, but loose ball joints or tie-rods can do funny things to the alignment when the wheel is loaded from braking and/or the car pitches from weight transfer.
i suspect caliper, but loose ball joints or tie-rods can do funny things to the alignment when the wheel is loaded from braking and/or the car pitches from weight transfer.