Paul L

The Holley has been giving me fits all this driving season so I figured I would go Edelbrock/Carter. But I need some help with this conversion.

Here is the Holley.



I took off the divorced choke and vacuum advance piping as the new choke is electric and the vacuum has to be modified.



Isn't that pool of gasoline in the choke housing lovely? A recipe for a fiberglass BBQ. Holleys leak!



Here is the first sit down for the carb. Ignore gaslines. I have those. The throttle linkage looks reasonable subject to adjustment but I can't figure out where to install the Powerglide kickdown linkage. I have the recommended adaptor but there does not seem to be a hole in those brackets to install it. Any advice? I knew this would not be a one-day job.....




[Modified by paul67, 7:00 PM 7/3/2004]


[Modified by paul67, 7:07 PM 7/3/2004]


[Modified by paul67, 8:19 PM 7/3/2004]

yogi78

I think you want to put the accelerator linkage above the pivot point in the small hole that is next to the large hole. That will free up the bottom hole for the transmission kick down linkage. If your car linkages work the same as mine, the accelerator linkage pulls the throttle off idle and the trans linkage should pull it back towards idle. Hope this helps.

Paul L

Thanks for that tip! It made sense. I had to enlarge that upper hole a little bit with a drill but the linkage now fits. I also installed the optional kick-down linkage ball fitting and it seems to fit as well. The spring tension is a little loose so I will be shopping today. Next step is to rig up a crankcase vent hose system as the Edelbrock snout on the air cleaner base is smaller than the Holley. I will probably use a hose within a hose.

Paul L

I am still plugging away at it. Re the 327 crankcase ventilation I have come up with a Bubba solution. The GM/Holley hose (on left) is about 1" ID while the Edelbrock under carb base plate snout (in silver) is 3/4" OD. A mis-match. To marry both I found a brass reduction adaptor in the plumbing section of the hardware store. And bought a length of 3/4" ID hose. Rubber things seem to come together very nicely.



This is the Edelbrock/Russell fuel line with filter. The carb banjo connection is needed to clear the air filter base. The filter to fuel pump line is advertised as "Pre-fitted stainless steel line SB Chevy." I have not yet had time to look at the existing fuel pump fitting but the Edelbrock version looks a little big. There might be a male vrs. female problem as well. These things are supposed to be bolt-on! Any comments on that?




[Modified by paul67, 4:03 PM 7/4/2004]

Paul L

More progress. Necessity is the mother of invention. For the crankcase ventilation I went with a hose within a hose. The pic shows the Edelbrock air cleaner base with a 3/4" rubber elbow hose running into the original GM 1" hose. The 3/4 hose is an L-79 waterpump bypass hose that I cut to fit. I had to do some cutting on the 1" as well. But all sits level so I am pleased with the outcome.



On the fitting to the fuel pump, this adaptor may be what is needed. I will have a go at it tomorrow. It looks too large but I believe it means that whatever fittings are there at the moment have to be completely removed and this one installed. Another hoping and coping exercise.




[Modified by paul67, 8:47 PM 7/4/2004]

Michel B

Hello!! JUste want to add a little. I'v juste installe a new edelbrock 1411, although its works very well, I had to do some adjustements. One was very simple, the choke setting was way to high, brought it down to 1500 rpm. The other problem was fuel starvation, so I dicided to verifie the flote adjustement, and to my surprise they were not even close to manufactures specs,, it was allso an easy fix. I'm still in the fine tunning, but find the carb very user frendly..........

DJ Dep

Paul: Just some feedback on the carb switchover....

I had a '69 Mustang with a 351 Windsor performance engine (Hi-comp, headers, alum hi-rise). I originally installed a 780CFM R3310 Holley on it and it was way too much carb. I had spitting through the carb and a heck of a time starting it in the winter.
I switched to a Carter AFB (now called Edelbrock) 610 CFM carb and the performance instantly got BETTER. I was really amazed at the difference. When the secondary weights popped open there was no bog or hesitation. Just instant power. I think you made the right move. Although I like Holley-style (Demon) carbs for performance engines, there are some applications where they are just too much. It's also very likely that if I had switched to a smaller Holley (600CFM) carb, I would have run much better. But I sure can't fault the AFB for operation.

Dep
P.S. Carter AFB was standard equipment on MANY performance smallblock Chevy engines during the early 60's!!!!

Paul L

Thanks Dep. Corvette used Carters until 1966 when they switched to Holleys. Then to Rochester Q-Jet in 1969. I do not know why GM was so fickle in the use of carb brands. The people over in the C1/C2 section seem to like the Carter for its good manners and dependability.

DJ Dep

Paul: Carters were pretty common performance carbs for quite a while. Mopar used them. Hemis came with two inline AFBs, and the Max Wedge engines used cross ram with AFBs (other than the Ramchargers, who switched to Holleys for strip use). The Roadrunners and Super Bees all had Carter AVS carbs on their standard engnes, which is just a variation of the AFB.
Pontiac used AFBs until 67 and Buick and Olds also used them pre-67.
Holley carbs are pretty much reserved for high performance engines.
Chev, Ford, and Chrysler made use of Holleys in various sizes.
They had a better CFM rate, and Carter never really caught up to them in that area.

Dep


[Modified by DJ Dep, 8:04 AM 7/5/2004]

Paul L

Now I'm stuck. The Russell/Edelbrock braided fuel line is specifically for SB Chevrolets....? But compare the end fittings going into the pump. The Russell is much larger in diameter than the stock on the right. Has any one run into this before? I am thinking of some form of adapter but that is moving into Bubba territory. Anyone have any suggestions?




[Modified by paul67, 2:18 PM 7/5/2004]

JRD77VET

Hi Paul,

The 90 degree fitting looks to be tapered pipe thread. I can't tell exactly from the pic, but it could be either 3/8-18 NPT or 1/2-14 NPT. The chevy fuel line is a straight thread which compresses the flare.

It would be acceptable to use an adapter. If I had to get it, I would go to our local large truck garage. ( it's a GMC dealer). You also might find it at your local speed shop. The adapter will probably be made out of brass.

I will edit this post later after I find the correct hole size for the above pipe taps.

Jeff


NOMINAL
SIZE TAP DRILL
TAPER NPT TAP DRILL


1/8-27 R (.339)
1/4-18 7/16
3/8-18 37/64
1/2-14 23/32
3/4-14 59/64




[Modified by JRD77VET, 6:05 PM 7/5/2004]

Paul L

Jeff,
As usual thanks for the kind reply. I may have a solution from the C2 area.

I've got the Edelbrock on my 65 coupe. I used the Edelbrock banjo fitting with chrome line and filter and the stainles steel line to the fuel pump. I went through the same dilemna. The Edelbrock line is made to fit an Edelbrock or aftermarket fuel pump. The solution is to purchase a Russel/Edelbrock elbow. Part number is 660820 - Elbow, 90 degree X -6AN Flare X 1/4" NPT. I had trouble getting the elbow on due to limited room. It's difficult to get a wrench on the elbow and turn it. My solution was to purchase a cheap 9/16 diameter socket and cut out a slot to fit over the fitting which allowed tightening it up with a socket wrench. I've been happy with the Edelbrock.
The photo didn't come through when I first responded. If you want to stick with the shiny finish instead of the blue finish, the part number is 660821. Good Luck.

I have ordered that part but certainly look forward to your findings. A little redundancy never hurts. I don't wish to lose July in our short driving season!

Paul L

We have hood clearance with the 2 1/2" filter. I have one that is not wide enough but it will work until I find the proper one. I think a good number is Mr. Gasket 1480A. Just need that damn fuel pipe fitting to get back on the road.

Paul L

Most of the important parts are now in place. PCV and vacuum is hooked up. Linkages are fine. I tapped the ignition side (bottom) side of the ballast resistor for the hot choke wire. That was a very useful exercise (blessing in disguise) as the ignition wire just fell out of its end connection! I soldered that securely. But you have to wonder how much voltage was not passing through! I re-routed the choke hot wire after the pic was taken to clear the vacuum line better.

Note the 0.32" Edelbrock heat insulator/spacer. I thought I might have to leave that out for hood clearance but folks here on the Forum clued me in to a Mr. Gasket #1480A 2" air filter. And that was just fine as I wanted that insulator to prevent the Holley-type boil-over.



So that is where matters stand. And this is the look; not terribly different from stock Holley and hopefully more functional. I only lack the fuel pump fitting to get back on the road. I should have that by week's end. Then I cross my fingers and turn the key.....




[Modified by paul67, 6:28 PM 7/6/2004]


[Modified by paul67, 6:29 PM 7/6/2004]


[Modified by paul67, 6:35 PM 7/6/2004]


[Modified by paul67, 9:20 PM 7/6/2004]

yogi78

If a 14" X 2 1/2 " filter will work for you, here are some more choices. Purolater A60102, Fram CA-342, STP SA-342.

BSeery

You don't want to do that! Power for the coil should be for the coil and nothing else. You are taking away power from the coil when you hook up the choke to it. Find another source for your choke power.

Paul L

I'll check the archives again but that was the source recommended by some C2 people. It is the ignition side of the resistor (constant 12V) and not the coil side. But I will double-check.