steering box rebuild done!
07-02-2004, 05:51 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
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steering box rebuild done!
whew, what a job! fun, but time consuming for a 1st timer. i followed the GM overhaul procedure with much appreciated input from grt1999, norval and Jim Shea.
i have a few addendums to add the procedure for anyone else willing to try this:
1) pitman arm nut was a fight. mine req'd a 36" long 3/4 drive breaker bar and all my weight. make sure to clamp the pitman arm itself in the vice jaws. don't want to over torque the pitman shaft.
2) pitman arm removal was another fight. don't even attempt without a fixed 2-jaw puller and an impact gun.
3) machine a ‘tool' to press the bushings. when removing the old ones, i just used a hydraulic press to remove both at once.
4) order new ***** from a tool supplier (McMaster) $5 for 100 ***** (52100 steel, 9/32 dia), vs $20 for 54 ***** at a Corvette vendor. if so inclined, the bearings and seals can also be sourced from specific industrial suppliers. they are pretty standard components.
5) test fit the factory replacement bushings before going to the trouble to custom machine new ones. my replacement bushings from VanSteel yielded a very good fit.
6) attention to detail and cleanliness are very important. don't rush.
7) inspect the bearing races of the worm shaft very carefully. i discovered a small ding which looked like it had been there since the box was first built. it caused major binding issues every 1/10th of a rotation with the new bearings installed. At first I thought the outer race distorted during press-fit, but then I discovered the ding under a microscope. i was able to touch up the lead-in chamfer on a lathe.
8) polish the pitman shaft journals on a lathe with 400 and 600 grit paper. Looks good as new.
9) put outer bearing races in freezer, and then hit with cold-spray before installation. Clean and deburr the housing bores very well with Scotch-Brite pad.
i have a few addendums to add the procedure for anyone else willing to try this:
1) pitman arm nut was a fight. mine req'd a 36" long 3/4 drive breaker bar and all my weight. make sure to clamp the pitman arm itself in the vice jaws. don't want to over torque the pitman shaft.
2) pitman arm removal was another fight. don't even attempt without a fixed 2-jaw puller and an impact gun.
3) machine a ‘tool' to press the bushings. when removing the old ones, i just used a hydraulic press to remove both at once.
4) order new ***** from a tool supplier (McMaster) $5 for 100 ***** (52100 steel, 9/32 dia), vs $20 for 54 ***** at a Corvette vendor. if so inclined, the bearings and seals can also be sourced from specific industrial suppliers. they are pretty standard components.
5) test fit the factory replacement bushings before going to the trouble to custom machine new ones. my replacement bushings from VanSteel yielded a very good fit.
6) attention to detail and cleanliness are very important. don't rush.
7) inspect the bearing races of the worm shaft very carefully. i discovered a small ding which looked like it had been there since the box was first built. it caused major binding issues every 1/10th of a rotation with the new bearings installed. At first I thought the outer race distorted during press-fit, but then I discovered the ding under a microscope. i was able to touch up the lead-in chamfer on a lathe.
8) polish the pitman shaft journals on a lathe with 400 and 600 grit paper. Looks good as new.
9) put outer bearing races in freezer, and then hit with cold-spray before installation. Clean and deburr the housing bores very well with Scotch-Brite pad.
07-02-2004, 09:31 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
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Location: Saginaw Michigan
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Re: steering box rebuild done! (Turbo-Jet)
I really appreciate the additional tips and comments relative to these type of disassembly and repair jobs. I almost always copy them and often will revise my papers to include them to help others.
It also is rewarding to see that the papers really do help.
Jim
It also is rewarding to see that the papers really do help.
Jim