What should I do first?
05-29-2004, 12:58 PM
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What should I do first?
I have recently purchased a 1977 corvette L-82.
The engine has been replaced in 1993 with what I
believe is a 300 hp 350 cubic inch engine. The vehicle has
been garaged for about 10 years. It supposedly never
"ran right". What do you think I should do first?
The engine has been replaced in 1993 with what I
believe is a 300 hp 350 cubic inch engine. The vehicle has
been garaged for about 10 years. It supposedly never
"ran right". What do you think I should do first?
05-29-2004, 01:07 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
Re: What should I do first? (77stingray)
has it been sitting for ten years??
if so change all the fluids and check all hoses
also empty the tank and put a new fuel filter in
then you can start deeling with the "ran right" stuff
if so change all the fluids and check all hoses
also empty the tank and put a new fuel filter in
then you can start deeling with the "ran right" stuff
05-29-2004, 02:01 PM
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Re: What should I do first?
It has been sitting for ten years and I've discovered that
neither the hydrolic or emergency brakes work. There is also several disconnected vaccum hoses for which I can find no home. Does anyone have a vaccum diagram? The heater core hoses have been disconnected for some unknown reason. One heater core hose comes off the water pump but where does the other go?
neither the hydrolic or emergency brakes work. There is also several disconnected vaccum hoses for which I can find no home. Does anyone have a vaccum diagram? The heater core hoses have been disconnected for some unknown reason. One heater core hose comes off the water pump but where does the other go?
05-29-2004, 10:04 PM
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Re: What should I do first? (77stingray)
Have you tried to start the motor?
Does the crank rotate?
I suggest you throw out the belts and hoses, get new ones, and change all the fluids- as stated earlier. Maybe even have a radiator/ engine flush.
Most important, though, I suggest that you get a compression test done, before you get really too deep( but make sure the motor rotates first!) A leakdown test would be nice, too. I think its best to find out how bad the internals of the motor are, before you go about changing hoses, and belts, and accessories. You might need to sink that money into machine work, or even a crate motor.
The return line from the heater core could go into the intake manifold, next to the thermostat housing, but I can't remember what the TRUE STOCK location is. I disconnect mine in the summer, since the radiant heat from the engine cooks you just fine without having that extra heat come in through the vents.
WHen I purchased my car, it had been a trailer princess, and then was neglected for years. The a-arm bushings were all shot, and I basically wound up changing or rebuilding the whole steering from the rag joint all the way to the tires.
I personally wouldn't try starting the motor, or even rotating it, 'till you've pulled the distributor, and the valve covers. Buy a cheepo oil pump primer, and while running the oil pump with a power drill, see if all the rockers are getting oil. Run this for a good while, and get a breaker bar, and try to turn the motor over by hand to see if everything rotates okay.
-As far as your brakes not working, is the pedal stuck to the floor, or is it just mushy with no resistance?
My engine wasn't stock (smog stuff all missing) when I bought her, so I don't know the original vacuum routing.
There are a couple that can be traced that are truly necessary to run. I can say that you should have one coming from the transmission that would lead to manifold vacuum- its probably already connected to a nipple on a multi- port pipe fitting, if it hasn't been removed.
There should be a hose going from the vacuum advance on the distributor to a ported vacuum source on the carb.
There is, of course, a large diam hose for the brake booster.
There probably is a line coming from the charcoal canister down below the brake booster, I'm not sure, but I think that goes to th carb also.
Then there's the hose that goes into the firewall to the heat/ac controls (and the headlights too I THINK?), this should connect to the pipe fitting where the trans hooks up.
The easiest thing to do, would probably be to buy a bunch of caps, and plug all the open ports on the manifold, and carb. You can get a diagram and trace the lines that way. You should have no problem starting it without the vacuum lines connected, but you will need to make sure you plug ALL the ports, and have at least the brake booster, transmission, and vacuum advance hooked up.
TAke all my advice with a grain of salt...
There are others here who might be able to point out a couple mistakes in what I've just said.
Good luck! I think you're gonna need it.
Does the crank rotate?
I suggest you throw out the belts and hoses, get new ones, and change all the fluids- as stated earlier. Maybe even have a radiator/ engine flush.
Most important, though, I suggest that you get a compression test done, before you get really too deep( but make sure the motor rotates first!) A leakdown test would be nice, too. I think its best to find out how bad the internals of the motor are, before you go about changing hoses, and belts, and accessories. You might need to sink that money into machine work, or even a crate motor.
The return line from the heater core could go into the intake manifold, next to the thermostat housing, but I can't remember what the TRUE STOCK location is. I disconnect mine in the summer, since the radiant heat from the engine cooks you just fine without having that extra heat come in through the vents.
WHen I purchased my car, it had been a trailer princess, and then was neglected for years. The a-arm bushings were all shot, and I basically wound up changing or rebuilding the whole steering from the rag joint all the way to the tires.
I personally wouldn't try starting the motor, or even rotating it, 'till you've pulled the distributor, and the valve covers. Buy a cheepo oil pump primer, and while running the oil pump with a power drill, see if all the rockers are getting oil. Run this for a good while, and get a breaker bar, and try to turn the motor over by hand to see if everything rotates okay.
-As far as your brakes not working, is the pedal stuck to the floor, or is it just mushy with no resistance?
My engine wasn't stock (smog stuff all missing) when I bought her, so I don't know the original vacuum routing.
There are a couple that can be traced that are truly necessary to run. I can say that you should have one coming from the transmission that would lead to manifold vacuum- its probably already connected to a nipple on a multi- port pipe fitting, if it hasn't been removed.
There should be a hose going from the vacuum advance on the distributor to a ported vacuum source on the carb.
There is, of course, a large diam hose for the brake booster.
There probably is a line coming from the charcoal canister down below the brake booster, I'm not sure, but I think that goes to th carb also.
Then there's the hose that goes into the firewall to the heat/ac controls (and the headlights too I THINK?), this should connect to the pipe fitting where the trans hooks up.
The easiest thing to do, would probably be to buy a bunch of caps, and plug all the open ports on the manifold, and carb. You can get a diagram and trace the lines that way. You should have no problem starting it without the vacuum lines connected, but you will need to make sure you plug ALL the ports, and have at least the brake booster, transmission, and vacuum advance hooked up.
TAke all my advice with a grain of salt...
There are others here who might be able to point out a couple mistakes in what I've just said.
Good luck! I think you're gonna need it.
05-29-2004, 10:21 PM
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Re: What should I do first? ('75 383 ElkGrove)
Thanks a lot. I have been tracing missing vaccum hoses and I will try to
get the brakes working (dry master cylinder!) and then I can focus all of my efforts on repairing the engine. I do have a compression tester and so I will do that once I can crank the engine. I will clean the plugs and squirt oil into the cylinders because the cylinders must be rusted to the cylinder wall (ugh). Hopefull this replaced 300 hp engine will start. Thanks again. :yesnod:
get the brakes working (dry master cylinder!) and then I can focus all of my efforts on repairing the engine. I do have a compression tester and so I will do that once I can crank the engine. I will clean the plugs and squirt oil into the cylinders because the cylinders must be rusted to the cylinder wall (ugh). Hopefull this replaced 300 hp engine will start. Thanks again. :yesnod: