RexK

I’ve been looking at dozens and dozens of C3’s on eBay for the last couple months to learn about the differences in these cars and about their market value. Due to personal preference, cost, availability, etc., I have decided that I probably want a ‘75-’82.

I want a clean, rebuilt engine with a few modifications such as an after market cam. Side pipes are definitely in my future (unless the car I find is more refined [elegant] looking, such as an ’82) and so is a nice paint job.

What I’m trying to decide is how to go about getting my car and having it the way I want it. Should I…… (see poll options)

example of option #1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

example of #2 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting How much would it cost to finish this car if I could get the painting done for free? I have a feeling that this car will go very cheap and that it wouldn't cost a whole lot for the new parts if I installed them myself. I have a lot of very mechanically knowledgible friends that could help with something like this. And I think I would really enjoy working on the car. Would buying a car like this and finishing it be a good idea?

Thanks,
Rex

jetlag

I have a nice 81 for sale ..Check out the engine mods in Sig ;) Has nice Electron Blue paint.

lostpatrolman

Even though you can get cars that need restoration for cheap, they will cost far more then they are worth to properly restore them. Even getting a decent looking driver can nickle and dime you to death. If you want a car that you can work on as a hobby, then get something that needs work. If you want something that you can buy and drive and not have to worry too much about, then get a vette that has been restored by someone. They would have spent all the money on getting the car nice, losing money in the meantime. Their loss, your gain.

RexK

Lostpatrolman, what I meant by "Partially restored and rebuilt/ mechanically very sound/ will need work such as new interior", is a car that has been mostly restored. The car would have a clean rebuilt (or new) engine, the body would be straight, and the paint would be good. But for some reason the person is selling the car before they finished their project. The car wouldn't need any difficult mechanical work, but rather some "assembly".

I think the car I marked example #2 is a what I'm talking about. The car has a nice and clean rebuilt 350, new wheels, new tires, new paint, new hood, new front and rear bumpers, new side pipes, new edlebrock mild cam, new headers, etc. Without inquiring with the seller I don't know everything that is missing, but from the pictures and the limited write up it would seem that all the car needs to be fully functional is paint on the hood/t-tops, head lights, and a complete interior. I think these are the kind of things that I could add for minimal cost and I would enjoy the learning process.

Here's the link again http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

Is this the kind of car that your talking about? How much would it cost to finish this project?

standup

.........And the rest.......he bought the car for 3k, so it was toast to begin with and only the seller knows what is really missing or wrong with it.......he says he doesn't have any dash, seats, carpet or interior parts and I'm wondering if that includes wiring as well???????? I'd say you'd have to add 5k for interior alone, and I wouldn't expect the car to sell for more than 3k or 4k......so for that kind of money you could get yourself a good driver without having to mess with rebuilding it..........

This is a project car that will take a lot of time and money to get streetable and I say the reason he's selling the car is 'cause he's run out of money :yesnod:

RexK

What condition would a 8-9k driver be in? Could I can find a completed car in as good of condition as that one would be when finished for the same price? When finished that car would be almost like new with all the new parts + interior.

PS, I'm not going to be buying the car for a few months to a year, so I'm not actually considering that particular car. I'm just trying to figure out what I should be looking for.

gsfgf

If you want to drive it now, get a fully restored car. If you think restoring would be fun and are willing to spend the $$$, then get something that needs restore.

den(thevetteman)78

Before you buy make sure you really know what you want and need out of a corvette.Learn as much as possible your vette history so went it is the time to buy ,you will not regret your money spend on a vette .I did it and love my vette just like the first day i bouth it 15 years ago .Go for the one you can drive right now ,no fix it later car too expensive . :steering:

Flyboy26

Rex,
Whether you end up with a turn key, or a project car, there are several weak links to consider in the purchase of a C3. The primary area of concern are the trailing arms. Watch for rust in these, (look INSIDE the arms, use mirrors if you have to), and the arm support bushings (where rear toe-in is adjusted), the radiator core support is also prone to rust out. These are very expensive items, and if a previous owner has done this, you are way ahead in restoration costs.

Weatherstripping condition will go a LONG way, in determining the squeak and rattle character of the car. And a Coupe will be quieter than a Roadster.

Most of the restoration parts for C3's are individually inexpensive, but the amount of items required can nickel and dime you to death, depending on whats needed.

Good luck in your future ownership!

SpyderD

Rex, buy the best car you can afford and that will be the cheapest car in the long run. Now in my opinion the cars you want to avoid at all costs are the ones with trashed interiors and/or rusted frames..

"..........it would seem that all the car needs to be fully functional is paint on the hood/t-tops, head lights, and a complete interior......."

This is an example of a car you want to AVOID! The single biggest expense is to paint the car, the next single biggest is to redo the interior. Not to mention the condition of the interior is reflective of the upkeep the owner performed on the rest of the car. Bad engine? Who cares, it sounds like you want to add some performance anyways so you can just buy a crate engine like a ZZ4 for $3,000 or so vs. the $1,000 you would spend on performance parts anyways.
Try the "for sale" area of this corvette forum, you get some good deals from people who care about there vette's. That's where I bought my vette.

carl a

i know of a 1975 4 speed coupe for sale in naperville illinios- he wants$ 15,000-v.g.c.-e mail me if interested-carlclub@comcast.net


[Modified by carl a, 5:42 PM 5/27/2004]

leeloo67

You can always get more for your money if you get something that needs work, but only do that if you know exactly what you are looking at! Do not buy junk just because it is cheap - that's how you end up with a Corvette parked under a tree in the backyard.

Keep in mind that some parts are inexpensive, like carpet, and others are very expensive, like t-tops (or a paint job!). If you look at any car that needs parts, take a Corvette catalog (like Ecklers) and figure the cost of the parts.

I would stay away from rebuilt cars, becuase you never know what someone else may have done. Amateur rebuilds are just a dissapointment waiting to happen. A professional one is going to break your wallet. A neighbor of mine I think has an amateur rebuild - the car looks really nice but takes him 10 mintues to start it, and it came home one day on a rollback!

The car I got was basicly just never garaged, in pretty much 100% original condition. I got a good deal and was able to make it super-nice very easily. I now have it for sale though :(

19Shark69

Why did you choose those years?

I bought my C3 several years ago. It was a number matching original car. It needed more work than I was prepared to do initially. I got caught up with the matching number thing. It didnt last long as I soon replaced the motor with a ZZ4.

The front end had cracks over the wheel wells, the very front of the car was cracked between the headlights, the paint was very faded. The interior had been eaten on by a rat or two. It was a tired C3.

I probably have around 20K in this car. Its real nice, but still needs a few more things. If I was doing it again, I would decide on the matching numbers deal first. I would then think about a T-Top or convert model. Big block or small block and finally I would have an idea of just what I was looking for.

Keep your eyes peeled and your check book ready. You never know what you might find. Im not a big ebayer. My son is, but I like to kick the tires and drive before I decide.

Good luck, btw, will this be your first vette? :D

RexK

Flyboy, thanks for pointing out those weak areas. That will help a lot! Thanks

Spyder, I can completely understand why to avoid a rusted frame, but why avoid trashed interiors? If the cost of the car (which is otherwise mechanically perfectly sound) plus the cost of the interior will be less than the cost of a complete car, why would I need to avoid it? Please give me some more info on this. And thanks for the idea about the engine.

leeloo67, I certainly don’t want junk! Would you call that blue ’76 junk? To me it looks to be in good condition, just missing some parts. Stay away from rebuilds? I was under the impression that rebuilt = good. I guess I was thinking that it would be more like a new engine and function more efficiently and more reliably. If this is not so, then what kind of engine do I need to look for? Completely original and unhampered with? Won’t the seals and such need to be replaced by now? I’d really like to here more info on this one. I’m a bit confused now.

19shark69, I chose those years because they seem to be the least desirable, which would mean they would be the least expensive, right? I’m not worried about matching numbers, I think I want a coupe, and a small block is preferred but not essential (I could easily make due with a nice 454) And yes this will be my first Vette. I’m really looking forward to it!

Thanks for the help everyone,
Rex

standup

Restoring, rebuilding or otherwise replacing parts is expensive.......I don't think your going to get away with restoring an interior for less than the cost of a "complete car".....especially that '76......It's fine if you want the challenge and fun of working on the car, but be prepared to keep your wallet open and full :yesnod:

......."mechanically prefectly sound" is a contradiction in terms when it comes to a car that's 22+ years old.....something unexpected is bound to break....and you'll need some coin up your sleeve to get it fixed......

.......like someone's already pointed out......get the best car you can afford.....the less you have to fix or replace the better..........

......keep looking at different Vettes, keep doing your homework......the more you know about Vettes before you buy, the better.......

Good Luck :cheers:

BLKZZ4

I am not an expert on engines, but I think the general feeling is if you don,t rebuild it yourself it is buyer beware. I recently purchased my C3 and am very happy with a relatively new ZZ4 crate motor.

leeloo67

Don't be confused. To me, rebuilt = question everything, especially in an "amateur" rebuild. You never know who messed around with what, why it was rebuilt, and if they knew what they were doing or not.

I'm just saying be careful. If you think something may be funny with a potential purchase car, just post questions on this forum! If you have questions about '82 or '84 check out http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/ Know as much as you can.

I personally would not get a '76 though unless it HAD been rebuilt! That was a rough time for quality in American cars, and I belive that was the lowest HP year of all the Corvettes.

In fact I had a scary near miss with a '76 on eBay several years ago - the car was fairly near me so I arranged to go look at it before I bid. I specificly asked the guy over the phone if there was any rust (a car with rust is worth $0 to me) and he kept saying "it's fiberglass, it ain't gonna rust". I drove all the way out there, a little over an hour one way, to find a piece of rusted out junk with no seats that had been under a tree for the last decade.