73 Vet

Hard to admit, but, while in the process of removing a broken bolt, under the seat, I drilled a hole in the steel brakeline. Short of replacing the entire line, has anyone got an idea of how to repair this? Can I remove a length of tubing, replace it with another with the proper flare, etc? :mad

lars

Cut the line at the hole, install inverted flare fittings on it (available from NAPA), flare the line, and install a flared union. It's tight getting the flaring tool into the frame area, but it can be done.

Sharky Guam

There are two ways to fix it economically and one that is more expensive:

You can pull the line out and use a conventional flare type union that you can buy from your parts store. You will have to cut the damaged piece off and reflare the line where it is cut on both ends before putting the union in.

Or you can the damaged area of about a 1/4 inch off and put a compression type union. This should also be available at your auto parts store. You can even sometimes find it at a plumbing supply store. The compression union utilizes a brass farrell sleeve which eliminates the need to reflare the line. This helps in tight areas.

Or you could go all out and replace the whole section of line and rebend everything for an original look. Be sure to bleed the lines though.

mandm1200

Here in Pennsylvania repairing the brake line as decribed by others would make it fail an inspection, if it were seen by the inspection mechanic. Before splicing the line I would call the garage where you normally get your service/inspections and ask them. No sense in repairing it if you will be required to replace it.

Mike

GasketDude

Never use Brass Compression Fittings on Brakes!

The High Pressure compression unions made out of steel is the only thing that should be used on brakes. These are also used in Hydrualic Pump applications and I think they're rated for 2000 PSI. With a line PSI well over 1000 PSI in a panic stop, don't take the chance of using a brass union that's rated for about 200 max PSI.

NAPA (Weatherhead brand) part#'s: (steel compression-black in color)
1/4" = 7305x4
3/16"= 7305x3
(these cost about $5+ ea.)

You can cut the line and flare it using a double flaring kit and use the
Brass Unions (female fittings for connecting line nuts together):
1/4" = 302x4
3/16" = 302x3

Hope this helps,
Good Luck!


[Modified by GasketDude, 11:10 AM 5/24/2004]

redvetracr

:iagree: NEVER EVER!! use brass compression fittings on brakes...NEVER
...redvetracr

The Dude

No, no, no, no, and once again no!
Compression fittings, the ones that use the brass ferrule, are designed to withstand the pressure of domettic water. As in plumbing. As in your house. The pressure in an automotive brake line will cause that joint to fail in VERY SHORT ORDER.

Nifty 71

Stopping is pretty important, check on the prices for a new line before trying to splice the old one.

myoriginal77

No brass fittings for repair!
I had one fail on me from a previous owners repair and it was on a car without a dual master. Was an interesting ride through the toll booth.

:nono: