Burgundy 69

While rebuilding my engine last year, I decided to take advantage of the situation and clean up under my hood. I removed the wiper door actuator and mechanism, had it painted, replaced shoulder bolts, bushings, etc....

Everything went back in and aligned perfectly. However, unless I physically pull on the door after throwing the wiper switch, my door does not open. Have checked all vacuum and everything is plumbed correctly, and vacuum checks out perfectly.

So, I finally broke down and purchased a 69 shop manual. The illustration for the actuator clearly shows a stack of shims located behind the actuator bracket. I found no shims when I took this apart. Also, upon closer inspection of my actuator, I found that the rod that connects the actuator to the mechanism is bent.

Just wondering if anyone who has mucked around with their actuator found a stack of shims, and if there is a bend in the rod.

Thanks.


Mark

427V8

No shims on mine.
The rod is straight.

Does the actuator work when not connected to the wiper door?

Are you getting Vacuum to the actuator?

is the engine running?

Wrencher

My rod was brocken and had obvoiusly been bent befor it snapped. I got a look at a brand new one and it was straight. My door was frozen solid and off the car when I got it. I had to work hard to get it right again including all new plastic bushings, bolts and re-drilling the door. I made one modification. I made my own actuator rod with a heim joint (spherical rod end) at the mechanism end. I felt there was too much resistance with the stock bushings. With my actuator off, I can EASILY move the door by hand using the rod. With the actuator mounted, the door literally snaps open and shut. I first tested it using direct vacuum from the supply hose, just switching back and forth on the actuator itself. Once I was satisfied, I moved on to the rest of the system.

All of this assumes zero vacuum leaks and good initial engine vacuum.

Hans

70454

Mark:

Sorry to jump in on your post. I just removed my wiper door assy. and actuator and re-installed it. My actuator on my 70 is similar in design but different in appearance. I experienced a problem the first time I tried it but now it works. I now get a whistling sound which I think is a vacuum leak. When I turn the car off I get a definite hiss from the actuator. I think there is some specific information that we are missing pertaining to the reinstallation of the actuator in regards to the vacuum and gaskets on the actuator.

Can anybody help us on this?

Z-man

I agree with Wrenchers comments, although I haven't gone with Heim joints (that is first class). I worked with my door until it freely moves up and down by hand (not connected). It also snaps up and down when the engine is running.

If you hear a vacuum leak there will be other problems including other vacuum items like lights not working properly, heater air doors not working well, and possible engine problems due to low vacuum.

Burgundy 69

As others have commented, when the actuator rod is disconnected and power off, I can freely move the mechanism by hand. On several occasions, I have managed to pop the door with the car running, it remains frozen solid until I shut down and the pressure bleeds off. Then, I can force the door down. As for leaking vacuum, I hear no hissing whatsoever (although this used to be a problem under my dash when I bought the car). I have replaced all vacuum hoses both under the hood and under the dash. and have no doubt that they are connected correctly. I am wondering if the actuator rod is to close to the mechanism, and if I may need to stack spacers behind the mounting bracket to move the unit forward a bit.

I'll give it a try this weekend, I guess. Thanks


Mark