vett79

Has anyone seen a kit to install a Sandon (or any R134A) compressor to a C3? Vintageair has a kit for up to 67s but no C3. I had my R12 system converted last week and am pretty disapponted in the results. Cool but not cold. :sad:

Wrencher

Give us a few more details as to exactly what was done. I assume you have the stock system with the R4 GM compressor. My experience converting these systems has been quite good, so I'm curious what's not right.

If you do switch, Sanden or Sankyo (axial) compressors are good units.

Hans

page62

It would be cheaper to go back to R12. The R4 is a very good compressor. Light and simple. I have a rebuilt stock system using R12...and I live in one of the toughest "proving grounds" in the USA!!!


[Modified by page62, 8:44 PM 5/18/2004]

zwede

The stock system can be made as cold as you'll ever need with R134a. Mine makes vent temps in the low 40's on a 90F day. On the later C3's with the CCOT system you need to adjust the cycling switch when going to R134a. If you don't adjust it you'll have 10-15 dgr warmer air out the vents. You should also get a smart VOV (variable orifice valve) instead of the stock orifice tube.

lostpatrolman

What does the VOV do and is it recommended for early c3s?

Willis

What's involved in doing this procedure? I converted my 81 several years ago and have been quite pleased with the results, but colder air would be awesome. Where is the cycling switch and how do you adjust?

zwede

Only late C3's have CCOT (cycling clutch orifice tube) systems. Early C3 uses TXV (thermostatic eXpansion valve). With the TXV systems you need an adjustable POA valve when switching to R134a. I think the factory one was non-adjustable. I got a POA valve from NAPA that was adjustable. Turning the adjustment 1/4 turn CCW as recommended lowered my vent temps 10F.

Think of the orifice tube as the nozzle on a spray can. It detemrines how much refrigerent flows and the pressure differential between high and low side. The VOV has the ability to change its flow rate depending on conditions. More efficient and an inexpensive upgrade. I think they're $15-$20.

zwede

The cycling switch is what turns your compressor off and then back on. Due to the differences in pressures between R12 and R134a you want to adjust the switch to turn off at a lower pressure. Not all switches are adjustable, though. The switch should be mounted on the evaporator cover in the engine compartment.

vett79

I figured it out :hurray: The heater valve apparantly wasn't working so for the summer I pulled the hoses and put plugs in the manifold and water pump. Now it's plenty cold.

comp

:banghead: i'd still like to have info :thumbs:

Master Ho

:iagree: :iagree: :iagree:

OHSIXX

I plan to install the Sanden 508 in the next couple of months. The issues are brackets and hoses.

Check out http://www.hotrodair.com

They have it all. :)