Bob K

I'm putting the rear suspension back on my '72 Cpe. I'm doing a complete frame off restoration. I've got a new 9 leaf spring, new bolts and rebuilt Trailing arms from Bairs (everything came with the car when I purchased it last year). Te front and rear suspension were in boxes when I purchased the car.

Here is my issue. The rear spring is bolted to the rear (sung only). The trailing arms are installed and I had the struts and shocks installed. I had to undo the top shock mounts to allow the T/arms to drop so the bolts were close. When I lowered the frame I placed a C-clamp on the spring (about 6" from the end) and placed a bottle jack on the o/side of the clamp. The angle of the bolt between the spring and the T/arm was severe. I could not compress the spring enough to even get the bolts near the trailing arm holes so I took the rear shocks back off. I could barely get the nut on the end of the bolt. I did place about 100 lbs on the rear diff crossmember before lowering the frame all the way.

My question is this: Is the angle susposed to be this severe. Should I wait until the body is on before I tackle that bolt again?

Thanks for any ideas!

Bob K.

Captain Morgan

Hmmm, was your trailing arm level with the ground? It should be. If not, jack up the trailing arm and put a socket (about 9/16) underneath of it to hold it up so that it's parallel to the ground. I can't remember what angle the bolts were at, but I know that it wasn't the simplest job in the world getting them on. See if this helps at all, if not, I'm not sure what to do without being there to see it. But I'm sure one of the guys on here will have an idea for you.

Bob K

The problem I'm having is that the body is off the frame. Every time I jack up the spring, the frame lifts up also.

I go a little work done on the car today, so I should have the motor & trans in the frame in a week or so and that might be enough weight to hold the frame down.

Bob K.

R 73 454

Somewhere I saw an article on using threaded rod and a variety of washer/nuts to compress the spring to the frame. There is a set of holes on frame kick-up which you run one side of the rod through, then coil spring compressor jaws (or suitable substitute) on the other end to grab the leaf spring end. I saw it in a NCRS mag. :cheers: