OHSIXX

Sort of a spin off of the "Corvette Wreck" thread, which has gotten me worried.

Do you torque your wheels? How much? What is the safe range?

I am awaiting a response from Cragar as well.

The Dude

Centerline wants 55-65 lb. ft. with 7/16" diameter wheel studs.

johns73

I was told at a local tire shop 100 ft lbs on all wheels and a retorque on alloy's

OHSIXX

I have been using 100 ft lbs as well only because it is the recommended torque for C5s and figured it would be good enough for me. My best pal thinks it should be 70 - 8o ft lbs. I am not going to hold my breath waiting on a response from Cragar. :confused:


[Modified by OHSIXX, 3:19 PM 5/14/2004]

mrvette

5 taps after snug on a 1/2 inch INgersoll with 120 psi is fine......

been doing that for decades.....

GENE

1970 Dave

Take a look at a 1970 Service Manual and it says 65 pounds wheel torque---seems a little lite to me

corvtt1969

taht was my car that got wrecked, and when i worked at a tire shop, we used torque sticks that were for the 60-80 range depending on the size of the car bigger cars being higher torque requirements ie: trucks and vans i hope that helps, i think im gonna carry my torque wrench with me everywehre i go from now on :(

SpyderD

Haynes manual says 65 lbs and thats what I do.

OHSIXX

Just checked my 72 Manual and it says 75 ft lbs, but I wonder how aftermarket wheels and spacers would impact that?

Just guessing, but I think the torque would need to be higher than 75 ft lbs.


[Modified by OHSIXX, 3:56 PM 5/14/2004]

gkull

I never remember what the book says so I've been doing 105 on my clicker TW since the 80's and my front studs are still my original 79's rears I have 1/2 inch and they are 105 also

Wrencher

Bolt torque depends more on the size and type of stud/bolt than on anything else. 65/75 pounds would be about right for a 7/16 stud in good shape that hasn't been stretched or damaged. 100 is about right for a 1/2 incher.

On every race car I've ever been involved with, we backed off and re-torqued the wheels after EVERY session. Probably overkill, but we never lost a wheel!

Hans

SteveG75

'75 manual states 85 ft-lbs for alloys. Seems to be workinging just fine. Check and retorque every couple of months.

mrvette

If you hammer the hell out of any bolt, well no crap sherlock it certainly will fail....but I guess it a touchy feely type thing, unless you love wasting time....

over the decades I have never lost a wheel stud by my method..but it requires a minit's concentration of what in hell you are doing, and familiarity with YOUR tools...

I can assure you the typical mechanicl engineer allows for a 3x error factor either way on all sorts of specs....and most any reasonable torque will for fine forever....65-75-105 whatever is within range...and will not damage studs or nuts....aluminum or steel wheel....

now having said that....it's most obvious that a samller stud is not as strong as a larger one....and that racing is more severe than street driving depending on circumstances.....like speeds, curves, road surfaces, and tons of outher variables....

I say stories of wheels falling off are maybe/probably true, but when the use of spacers, and other variables are included in the reality equation...sorry ...

but 4-5 taps on a snug nut is well enough....

GENE

Summerfun

75 lbs....and check it monthly

Only takes a couple of minutes anyway!!

The Dude

Holy crap. Some of you guys are using 100+ lb. ft.? Man, I'd seriously be worried about stripping the stud out of the hub with that kind of torque. But hey, that's just me.

Solid LT1

I use an IR 231 "Thunder Gun" and turn it to #4 and then do 2 more raps at
#5 after intial tighteneing! (have checked this to be consistantly between 70-80 ft/lbs on my 1/2" studs.)

81' Corvette Guy

You guys will freak out when you hear this...had a flat on the 97 Suburban last week...my dad was with my mom and my wife and our 10mos baby girl. They were at the mall and came out and hate a flat. He tried to break the lugs loose and could not do it..not bad for a 70 y/o man..hehe! Least he tried. Well I got called out there and when I got on the tire X tool... I COULD NOT BREAK EM! I am 39 y/o and in not too bad a shape..I said, What the hell..had to end up holding the stock burb tire iron in place and my dad got on it with all his weight and nothing..he started jumping on it and they FINALLY Broke loose! The paint on the lug wrench was literally peeling off due to the torque having to be applied!

Went to Discount Tire..good ppl. and told them our delimma. They informed my for that year..GM REQUIRED 140 LBS OF TORQUE ON LUGS FOR MY ALLOYS...I SAID, WHAT THE HELL! :eek:

They told me they could not torque any less due to liablility issues..ie, wheel coming off and then have some litigation..no no! I said..well, ok..i guess. So know I have a break over bar in the burb..so if ever this happens again...I will be prepared!


[Modified by 81' Corvette Guy, 10:22 PM 5/14/2004]

Paul L

I stick with about 80. That seems consistent with the opinions of others. Mine do not loosen up. I tend to them yearly.

gkull

Solid LT1 I've always used 105 FP without any trouble My air gun is set to 90 and then I use the clicker :chevy

Like I said my front studs are from 79 and on the rear I have 1/2 because of my big adapters to run 11X17 wheels with 315/35/17 tires Now I have 9X17 fronts with 265's i used to have 275's front's on 9.5 wheels.

I have real faith in them.

Cali,68,L-79

Wow! Next thing you know someone will have a torque postulation from Nasa. I guess my arm is calibrated becuase in 20 years of working on cars I have never used anything other than a breaker bar. Been quite safe. Guess I should buy a 50-100 ft/lb torque wrench.