ScubaJKD

Hello guys. Has anyone had to add an electric vacuum pump to thier vette due to cam and low vacuum ? If so where did you mount it. Anyone know what the bear minimum is in vacuum you can get by with in inches to still operate the headlights. Thanks for any input and advise.

:cheers:

Moss

Fevre

Unless you have an ungodly cam I would think a rev or 2 with the eng would give you enough vac to operate the lights.

1979toy

The cam in my 406 small block is 300/310 duration and I have no issues with my vacuum headlights.

Pat71vette

its that the car dosn't have to have the engine running to operate and vac items and if you hook it up to the brake booster you have breaks if the engine stalls or whenthe engine is off. they work well don't know the vacuum inches they pull. I mounted it in the drivers side fender right were the vapor canster was. I still have it great to trouble shoot the vacuum system.

VETDRMS

Pat71Vette: What vacuum pump are you using?

ScubaJKD

Thanks for the input so far guys. I am running a roller cam comp cams 280H. Not crazy on duration. I could not get my headlights to come up and I had replaced everything. I plugged the Stainless Steel Brake Corporation electric vacum pump in and they come up and go down just fine now. Just hoping to get some other experience and see if I am along in this problem or if I am fixing the problem with a sledge hammer.

:cheers:

Moss

groovyjay

Why not go for electric headlight motor conversion? :cheers:

Pat71vette

Using a stock vacuum pump from a 1980's chevy 4 cyd works great.
Its pretty heavy duty the lights and wiper pop right up instantly no waiting.

Gordonm

I only have 8 inches of vacuum at idle and mine work fine. Cam is 248 dur @.050

ScubaJKD

Where do I find out more about the electric headlight conversion I am sick of this vacuum crap. Vacuum's are for floors.

Moss

:cheers:

Pat71vette

when you change I take your old vacuum system parts

garandfan

This was my solution.

vetteguy75

I'm running 8 inches of vacumn...I have a Speed-Pro Cam 222@.050" and my lights work perfectly.... :steering:


[Modified by vetteguy75, 9:16 PM 5/18/2004]


[Modified by vetteguy75, 9:18 PM 5/18/2004]

Desertdawg

Garandfan, please list the part numbers and any other mods you had to do.

I started looking into going with electric rams during the fall, and let it slide, Now you post pictures and I am jelous.

Mystery Machine

That looks slick! I used motors from a gen 3 firebird on mine. WOrks like a champ every time! :thumbs:

Desertdawg

TTT

garandfan

These are SPAL linear actuators. You can purchase them on ebay, or direct from SPAL USA. These are 4" acuators that I reworked the lower limit switch in. The nominal throw on the rear headlight unit is 2 5/8 inches. You will need to cut the lower section of the lamp unit out to allow fitting, so if you want to remain stock and original, this mod isn't for you. If you aren't afraid of mods read on::

Remove the head light assy's. Cut the round opening where the vac. actuator used to be straight down from the diameter of the hole. Fabricate two brackets to hold the actuators at the proper angle, and at the proper distance to allow a mid point bottom out of the rear swing arm of the HL unit. Mount to the LOWER two holes already in the HL unit

Actuator mods:

The actuators will come with a simple 1 inch plug in the end of the rod. This will not work. You'll need to unscrew the rod, and pop the plug out. get a 6" section of alum. 3/4" dia round stock, cut in have, and replace into the rod shaft. Grind the new section to a flat service on both sides to mate with the HL unit rear swing arm. (some alum welding might be needed depend on fit). It is important that you measure the proper length to grind to allow for movement in the swing arm.

The lower limit switch will need to be relocated to allow for a 2 5/8 throw. This is done by taking the actuator apart, you will see the rail system with the limit switches mounted to it. remove the lower limit switch move it up the rail, lenghten the wires to the lower switch, remount.

Once this is all done, mount the actuator using the orginal pin which held the vac. actuator to the rear swing arm. You will need to remove the two springs from this arm. (keep them handy you will need them)

Wire the unit to a DPDT switch, or to your headlights using a series of relays, check operation to see if they open all of the way. I had to use all four springs on the forward swing arm to get enough tension in the upward movement. You may noy have to depending on the tension strength of your springs.

I know it sounds complicated, but it's not, if a dumb truck driver like me can do it any one can!!

:) :)

Desertdawg

Copied and pasted, for future refrence.

Thanks for the info. :cheers:

70PurpleLS7

On my 70, I mounted it on the inside of the fender (driver side) just behind the eggcrate grill. Bought some plastic spacers at Lowe's to follow the contour of the wheelwell, only had about a distance of a foot to go to the vacuum container. Installed a switch inside the car, that I turned on when I wanted the lights to up/down.

ScubaJKD

Thanks for all the input guys I have had it with Vacuum. I am converting to http://www.mcspeed.com Killer Electric lights. The conversion mounts transam electric motors and control module and will let me use my stock headlight switch for activation. Boy this is really gonna **** off the NCRS guys but hey at least I will be able to see them coming at night hahahaha. I am convinced that this conversion is gonna give me at least 50 more horsepower. hahahaha.

Moss

:cheers: