Q on pulling the body
#1
Melting Slicks
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Q on pulling the body
I am planning on painting the 69 in a months or so. I figured it would be nice to pull the body so I could reshim the body so I could get everything to line up. I would also like to reweld the frame and repaint it. How long does it take to disconnect everythign and pull the body off? How do you bring the body to the paint shop? I know you need to build a frame for the body and make sure to secure the front so it doesnt droop and crack. How much will the body weigh when it is off the frame. The interior will be out and the front windshield probably will be also. Thanks.
#2
Le Mans Master
Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
The stripped body is probably in the area of 500+ pounds ... everything unbolted. I have not weighed it - but I've moved it by myself.
Just let me warn you ... remove the body and you might be stretching your schedule out a bit more than expected .... ask me how I know. :rolleyes:
Good luck :seeya
Just let me warn you ... remove the body and you might be stretching your schedule out a bit more than expected .... ask me how I know. :rolleyes:
Good luck :seeya
#3
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Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
Check out my site link in my sig. Some pictures there of where we've removed/installed the body. Might help you.
(Wow, I just said "installed the body". That only took 2 1/2 years!!)
(Wow, I just said "installed the body". That only took 2 1/2 years!!)
#4
Melting Slicks
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Re: Q on pulling the body (keith72)
How long does it take to disconnect everythign needed in order to take the body off? Is it a big undertaking to take the body off?
#5
Pro
Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
To answer your question, once you get everything disconnected and have a body dolley built, it is amazing how fast the body can come off ( seconds ).
IMO - It is not really HARD work or a LOT of work to take the body off, but it is a lot of work to put it back on - seems everything is harder to put back together - getting it all aligned, etc. Heck I've been struggling with my fan shroud for a week now just triing to get it aligned properly.
IMO - It is not really HARD work or a LOT of work to take the body off, but it is a lot of work to put it back on - seems everything is harder to put back together - getting it all aligned, etc. Heck I've been struggling with my fan shroud for a week now just triing to get it aligned properly.
#6
Melting Slicks
Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
I am planning on painting the 69 in a months or so. I figured it would be nice to pull the body so I could reshim the body so I could get everything to line up. I would also like to reweld the frame and repaint it. How long does it take to disconnect everythign and pull the body off? How do you bring the body to the paint shop? I know you need to build a frame for the body and make sure to secure the front so it doesnt droop and crack. How much will the body weigh when it is off the frame. The interior will be out and the front windshield probably will be also. Thanks.
#7
Melting Slicks
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Re: Q on pulling the body (mapman)
Get the Noland Adams Body Lift video and Body Lift Work Book. It has the instructions for building the body dolly and for documenting the lift (shims, etc). Well worth your time tor review.
#8
Melting Slicks
Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
Get the Noland Adams Body Lift video and Body Lift Work Book. It has the instructions for building the body dolly and for documenting the lift (shims, etc). Well worth your time tor review.
Where can i get this video? And where can i get a good set of body cradles? I guess i just need the straps. I can use an engine puller to lift the body right?
Where can i get this video? And where can i get a good set of body cradles? I guess i just need the straps. I can use an engine puller to lift the body right?
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...CGLVLN8CK660A1
You might want to review the video and workbook before you purchase any lift equipment. You can then decide what approach you want to take.
I don't think an engine lift will work. The lift is plenty strong enough, but it likely won't have the vertical lift you need.
I ended up building a "gallows" and using a strap kit and chain hoist.
The video shows doing a body lift with 8-10 folks just lifting the body off. Lots of methods, you might search the archives.
Having the body off sure makes it easier to work on the car.
#9
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Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
I got the body straps from Zip's and hoisted with a chain fall from a 4X4 set in the garage trusses. Body comes up nicely, but getting all the shifter linkage, hoses, and yes, stubborn body mount bolts :cuss loose is what takes the time. I wound up using a torch :rolleyes: on two of the last...had a CO2 extinguisher handy, since I had fears of lighting off some fiberglas panels!
#10
Le Mans Master
Re: Q on pulling the body (PureSilver)
Pulled mine up with 4 ratcheting tiedowns (they say no vertical lifting - hah)
and a heavy duty cable puller.
Someday you will be happy that you pulled the body ... in the meantime it
may be a painfully long down-time. I'm rushing mine back together, because
I'm so desperate to drive her again.
:seeya
and a heavy duty cable puller.
Someday you will be happy that you pulled the body ... in the meantime it
may be a painfully long down-time. I'm rushing mine back together, because
I'm so desperate to drive her again.
:seeya
#11
Safety Car
Re: Q on pulling the body (NHvette)
There is a check list on my hometown site that may be helpful. I pulled mine off in a day by myself but took about 3 days to put everything back together not including the rocker replacing part. All together I had it apart for a month.
#12
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Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
Again, check my website.
An engine lift will get high enough, even to clear a high rise and with gas tank installed. Just did it last week.
Too bad you're not closer to ATL, I'm trying to sell my dolly for (from the Nolan design) for $30.
An engine lift will get high enough, even to clear a high rise and with gas tank installed. Just did it last week.
Too bad you're not closer to ATL, I'm trying to sell my dolly for (from the Nolan design) for $30.
#13
Melting Slicks
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Re: Q on pulling the body (keith72)
Thank you for your help guys. Keith, yeah, atlanta is like 7 hours from here. Too far of a drive. I looked at your site and was really impressed. Makes me want to take the body off even more. I want a nice clean looking frame! Redwingvette, your checklist will come in handy. Thank you.
[Modified by lostpatrolman, 11:50 PM 5/11/2004]
[Modified by lostpatrolman, 11:50 PM 5/11/2004]
#14
Melting Slicks
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Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
One more question reguarding the frame. I have heard that the c3 frame is not very rigid and flexes easily. The only things i have heard of that would help this is either welding the frame back up, or adding a roll bar. Is there anythign else that can be done? I know that on unibody cars, there are extra braces that can be welded up on the undercarriage. Is there anything similar that would help the frame out?
#15
Melting Slicks
Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
One more question reguarding the frame. I have heard that the c3 frame is not very rigid and flexes easily. The only things i have heard of that would help this is either welding the frame back up, or adding a roll bar. Is there anythign else that can be done? I know that on unibody cars, there are extra braces that can be welded up on the undercarriage. Is there anything similar that would help the frame out?
http://www.corvettefaq.com/listing.asp?group=3
#16
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Re: Q on pulling the body (lostpatrolman)
i'm sure you got all the info you need, but here's a pic of my lifted body:
http://home.stx.rr.com/txstingray/trailer%20rear.jpg
i lifted it myself with a 1200 lb winch attached to a 4X6-- i used 2 lengths of 1/2" thick rappel rope-- one length ran through the floor mounting holes for the shoulder belts (in the rear) with knotted ends so they wouldn't pull through. i then ran the other length of rope through the body mount bushing holes at the kick panels and also knotted the ends--i then tied the two middles together with a couple rock climbing carabiners and attached those to the winch hook. i then tied a supporting rope around the front end and tied it off to the t-top frame-- the body is being supported form underneath by three 2x4's. no flexing, no breaks, and it's been up there for almost 4 months now-- with enough room for me to wheel out the frame to work on it.
as far as the frame welding, i'm doing that now. pay attention to the diff upper crossmember mounting pads-- mine had a few cracks.
http://home.stx.rr.com/txstingray/trailer%20rear.jpg
i lifted it myself with a 1200 lb winch attached to a 4X6-- i used 2 lengths of 1/2" thick rappel rope-- one length ran through the floor mounting holes for the shoulder belts (in the rear) with knotted ends so they wouldn't pull through. i then ran the other length of rope through the body mount bushing holes at the kick panels and also knotted the ends--i then tied the two middles together with a couple rock climbing carabiners and attached those to the winch hook. i then tied a supporting rope around the front end and tied it off to the t-top frame-- the body is being supported form underneath by three 2x4's. no flexing, no breaks, and it's been up there for almost 4 months now-- with enough room for me to wheel out the frame to work on it.
as far as the frame welding, i'm doing that now. pay attention to the diff upper crossmember mounting pads-- mine had a few cracks.