Slick McFavorite

I am removing my engine this weekend and having the car towed to a local frame shop. It's a 78 and the passenger side lower a-arm is cracked on the bottom and sliping from the side of the front crossmember. I am probably looking at a new lower a-arm but once the car is in the shop I want them to check, be it rust or warping, the integrity of the rest of the frame. (front to back)

They do not provide ultrasonic testing, and I thought I sensed over the phone a little bit of pride about the fact that they don't.

I have a lot of work I plan on doing on this car and I want to make sure it's worth the work. The frame looks pretty good, a little surface rust here and there, but nothing big. But I can't tell for sure because I'm not an expert.

Can you guys give me some advice as to how I can go about getting peace of mind on my frame and move on to the funner things in life? Any shops in my area you know of, any self-tests I can perform (outside of removing the body :nono: ), anything at all would be greatly appreciated, now and in the future when I'm cruising again. :D Thanks!

- David

Markm10431

if they don't use ultrasound, how DO they do it? I know you can magnaflux an engine block, can you do the same with a frame?

Slick McFavorite

They said an ultrasound is only as good as the person conducting it. Probably true. The guy I talked to said all they check is the dimensions and hidden rust is something you can't really check for. (I assume he means I can't check it unless I pull the body)

Slick McFavorite

Any suggestions?

Robbo

You might check with these guys (just north of I-20 if you exit Winscott Rd.). They specialize in Corvettes and restoration.

Automotive Performance Unlimited
7341 West Vickery Boulevard Suite B
Benbrook, TX 76116
817-763-8115

You could also check with Lee Baird. http://www.arleesclassicautos.com He's a great guy and can no doubt steer you in the right direction. He's in Weatherford.

Rob


[Modified by robNdfwTX, 11:08 PM 5/10/2004]

foundvettelifeisgood

Aren't all the Vettes in Texas clean as to rust? I've always thought a Texas car would be as clean as an AZ or CA car. No?

A 78 with a bad frame is a real bad investment. They made close to 47,000 of them. If the frame is bad, sell it and find a better-framed C-3 to improve. Few Vettes are a good investment, and I'm not in it for the return. But you do have to be somewhat careful or you can get hurt bad.

:cheers:

Slick McFavorite

Thanks Rob, I'll try both of those places tomorrow.

The vette I own is actually a California Car that was sold to my uncle in Lewiston, Idaho who kept it in a garage and barely drove it. I'm going to find out how long it was in Idaho/California, but it's been here in texas 3 years. 1 year it was out in the texas weather, another it was outside with a car cover, and the last year it's been in a garage. Anyways, as I said, the frame looks ok, I just want to make sure with an expert. :cheers:

LemansBlue68

This sounds really crude and low tech but tap the frame lightlye all over with a hammer. You should get a distinct ringing sound from it just about anywhere you tap. If you get a dull thud you've probably got a great deal of rust that is flaking inside the frame rails. The places where they typically rust the worst is in the frame rails back by the rear kickups and in the lower portion of the kickups. Also check the crossover in front of the differential. You will also want to check the "birdcage" i.e. all around the windshield frame (especially down near the base of the windshield in front of each door) and the rails under the door sills.

Just because the car is in Texas now doesn't mean that it hasn't spent some years up north in the salt, slush, and crap.

Slick McFavorite

I've already removed the transmission crossmember and done some scrubbing on it. Looks like new steel where I worked it. But inside, right where it bolted on to the side of the main frame there was some dirt build-up that came away in little pebble-size chunks. Could be rust to my untrained eye, then again most of it is on the bottom where gravity would take dirt, and it's only in the area right where it bolts and not all along the inside. I'll double check near the pick-ups because I think I heard some dull thud action and also look inside the holes the factory cut for mounting side-exhaust. This was the advice given to me by Chuck @ Automotive Performance Unlimited when I called him. Helpful guy.

Also for anybody listening he told me to not remove the radiator tray (metal slab that divides the motor radiator from the transmission radiator). He said that's the only thing holding the body together in the front and if your remove it, then your body will stretch. :mad

I'll get back with you guys on how long it was in Idaho, how much it was driven there, in what weather, and hopefully I can find out what city the Vette was in when it was in CA. Hopefully not a salty city. :thumbs: