a few questions about my new steeroids
#1
Racer
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a few questions about my new steeroids
guys,
just fitted my kit together on the dining room floor to check everything was there and to get my head round how it all fits together,
i've a few questions,
the metric bolts that go thru the middle bracket and screw into the rack don't seem very long,
even without the lock washer under the bolt head it only seems to go in about 3 turns, is this enough????????? it just seems there will be a lot of pressure at this point and the casing of the rack is aluminium,
also, it says not to use atf, does this mean i'll have to flush the pump clean?????
i'm gonna try and fit it this weekend so i'll let y'all know how it went,
neil
just fitted my kit together on the dining room floor to check everything was there and to get my head round how it all fits together,
i've a few questions,
the metric bolts that go thru the middle bracket and screw into the rack don't seem very long,
even without the lock washer under the bolt head it only seems to go in about 3 turns, is this enough????????? it just seems there will be a lot of pressure at this point and the casing of the rack is aluminium,
also, it says not to use atf, does this mean i'll have to flush the pump clean?????
i'm gonna try and fit it this weekend so i'll let y'all know how it went,
neil
#2
Safety Car
Re: a few questions about my new steeroids (camaroneil)
as far as the bolt goes...they did a recall and sent everyone longer bolts a while back...
maybe you got an old kit? i would measure them and give them a call and check...
as far as the atf goes...i would flush it out and use power steering fluid...
BTW...you are going to LOVE it once you get it set up right...
the hardest part is adjusting the u-joints so you have no binding...
its not really hard, just a PITA! :D
just try not to get frustrated and keep tweeking on it...it is WELL worth it!
[Modified by SIGNGUY, 7:23 AM 5/7/2004]
maybe you got an old kit? i would measure them and give them a call and check...
as far as the atf goes...i would flush it out and use power steering fluid...
BTW...you are going to LOVE it once you get it set up right...
the hardest part is adjusting the u-joints so you have no binding...
its not really hard, just a PITA! :D
just try not to get frustrated and keep tweeking on it...it is WELL worth it!
[Modified by SIGNGUY, 7:23 AM 5/7/2004]
#3
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Re: a few questions about my new steeroids (camaroneil)
I installed mine last weekend and the bolts in question were long enough what i did find was
1. I had to use the shorter set screws on the ujoint that bolts to the rack, these are supplied with the kit. They were rubbing against the frame.
2. The hose that slides on the power steering pump was the most frustrating part for me, it does not give. I heated it with a hair drier for about 5 minutes and used a little lithium grease on the pump shaft. It was still difficult to slide on. I used a small heater hose type clamp to secure in place.
3. I could not use the lock washers on the bolts that hold the tie rod sleeve to the bracket, they would hit the lower A-arm when turning.
4. The car has lost some turning radius, i'll get used to it.
5. The instructions say that you can remove the old steering linkage out the bottom as one piece. I could find no way to drop the steering box out the bottom, i separated the pitman arm from the control valve and removed the steering box out the top.
I got lucky and had no issues with binding in the ujoint, had some rubbing problems instead. What i like best so far is
1. No more leaking
2. Very responsive
Last year i had replaced the idler arm, tie rods, control valve and slave cylinder, it still leaked and still did not steer like it does now.
1. I had to use the shorter set screws on the ujoint that bolts to the rack, these are supplied with the kit. They were rubbing against the frame.
2. The hose that slides on the power steering pump was the most frustrating part for me, it does not give. I heated it with a hair drier for about 5 minutes and used a little lithium grease on the pump shaft. It was still difficult to slide on. I used a small heater hose type clamp to secure in place.
3. I could not use the lock washers on the bolts that hold the tie rod sleeve to the bracket, they would hit the lower A-arm when turning.
4. The car has lost some turning radius, i'll get used to it.
5. The instructions say that you can remove the old steering linkage out the bottom as one piece. I could find no way to drop the steering box out the bottom, i separated the pitman arm from the control valve and removed the steering box out the top.
I got lucky and had no issues with binding in the ujoint, had some rubbing problems instead. What i like best so far is
1. No more leaking
2. Very responsive
Last year i had replaced the idler arm, tie rods, control valve and slave cylinder, it still leaked and still did not steer like it does now.
#4
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Re: a few questions about my new steeroids (camaroneil)
Don't be afraid to call Speed Direct. They are very helpful. In your case, it would be best to contact them directly with regards to the bolts. I imagine you can source them directly rather than have to wait for them to be shipped from the US.
#5
Team Owner
Re: a few questions about my new steeroids (camaroneil)
since they are metric bolts, you should be able to locate on your side with no issue.....they do need to be screwed in for allmost an inch or so...make that 2 cm anyway.....but they did issue shorter bolts I think, because of they are too long they will drag on the rack housing, and cause binding....can't win....
wonder if they got some bolts confused there, they make a bunch of installs for various cars, sounds like once again the bolts are biting them in the azz...
GENE
wonder if they got some bolts confused there, they make a bunch of installs for various cars, sounds like once again the bolts are biting them in the azz...
GENE
#6
Premium Supporting Vendor
Re: a few questions about my new steeroids (camaroneil)
Neil (and others), I sounds like a few of you got some incorrect bolts in your kits. They should thread in a minimun of 1/2" (or 13mm). Just this week we discovered that a couple kits were shipped with shorter bolts. We have mailed longer bolts to those that we determined recieved kits with the incorrect bolts. All of the kits involved should have their new bolts soon.
It's just like mrvette said. The length of that bolt is the biggest pain to have it right. It can't be too short or too long and a small design change must match up with the propper bolt length. A few got out the door with bolts that were too short.
Neil, IM me and I can send you the correct length bolts. You are on the list of people to contact to get the correct address. Or you can get them locally. They need to be 12M x 1.25 and 80mm long with a grade 10.9 rating.
Vette-4-Life, you are also one that got the shorter bolts. The new ones are on their way. By removing the washers you should have enough thread engagement with the short bolts so that everything is ok. The longer bolts will allow you the use the lock washers.
Feel free to call us if you have questions. We are glad to help. 888-245-2776 or 940-769-3804.
It's just like mrvette said. The length of that bolt is the biggest pain to have it right. It can't be too short or too long and a small design change must match up with the propper bolt length. A few got out the door with bolts that were too short.
Neil, IM me and I can send you the correct length bolts. You are on the list of people to contact to get the correct address. Or you can get them locally. They need to be 12M x 1.25 and 80mm long with a grade 10.9 rating.
Vette-4-Life, you are also one that got the shorter bolts. The new ones are on their way. By removing the washers you should have enough thread engagement with the short bolts so that everything is ok. The longer bolts will allow you the use the lock washers.
Feel free to call us if you have questions. We are glad to help. 888-245-2776 or 940-769-3804.