HDIronman

How dependable is a cast 400 crank for a stroker application..? What is the HP limit for this crank, using high performance rods and forged pistons...? I beleive I can safely go to 400hp. What about 450hp, 500hp....?

MotorHead

What about 550- 600 HP ? :lol:

I am running a Scat 9000 cast crank in my new 406ci ( not in the car yet ) I had a few conversations with knowledgeable people about this and what I found was a good cast crank is fine for a daily driver or street/strip motor. You have to look at it this way, if you do rev it out how long are you going to stay at 6000 RPM ? probably only a few seconds. If you were building a cirlcle track motor or a high performance boat motor where you have sustained high RPM's then I would use a forged crank. I am williing ot bet the majority of weekend warriors at the drag strip are getting down the 1/4 mile with cast cranks you heear of many things breaking at the strip but hardly ever hear someone broke their crank :D

LeAnn82Collector

I've also used the Scat cast steel crank in a 383 and it has a good rep. I used 6" rods and Wiseco pistons. The long rod motor like to rev!

Greg

any4xx

I used a stock Chevrolet 400 cast crank when I built a 383 for my '69 Camaro. I revved the **** out of it regularly and fed it some pretty strong doses of nitrous on occasion. I never had a problem with it.

Tom

HDIronman

I like what I hear so far. It's true that most of the time the motor will not see high revs, and will be simply a daily driver. But I want it to scream when I want it to scream.

I'm debating between 10:1 cr with iron heads, or 11:1 cr with aluminum heads. The rest of the motor will be hydraulic flat tappet, but I have not decided on the cam as of yet.

Question: Are any of you guys/gals using a flywheel balance plate with there externally balanced rotating assembly? I've always dealt with internally balanced engines.

:cool:

MotorHead

I bought a new Pioneer 400ci flywheel, you can get a used one and have it resurfaced, no experience with balance plate :D

any4xx

I used a stock (new) flexplate & 400 balancer. I also had the engine balanced before assembly.

For my $0.02, I'd go with the aluminum heads if I could afford it. Also, I'd consider a roller cam/valvetrain setup. A little more money, but LOTS more power!




[Modified by tpiini, 5:57 PM 5/1/2004]

HDIronman

[QUOTE]I used a stock (new) flexplate & 400 balancer. I also had the engine balanced before assembly.QUOTE]

The rotating assembly will be fully balanced before going together. However I have a fairly new flywheel that has been resurfaced and installed a new ring gear, so I'd rather not have to purchase a new flywheel. Flexplates are for converters.

:cool:

any4xx

Right, but be it a flexplate or a flywheel, you will need an externally balanced unit. Your 350 flywheel won't do it unless you do a LOT of work to either the crank or the flywheel.

Fevre

:iagree: Unless you find an internally balanced crank, I have forged one but have not seen a cast int bal one.

MotorHead

Scat has a internally balanced 383ci 9000 series cast crank and a new internally balanced 400ci crank, wish they had it when I started my project could have saved me a few bucks :D

no_radio

Yes, but you hardly ever hear of a broken cast connecting rod, either, but that is what initiated my current FORGED 383 buildup.
If you got the $$$ get forged, it's relatively cheap insurance if you look at the big picture. Unless you only drive it like a granny.
Jeff

HDIronman

I understand and agree with all replys. I already have a 400 crank that I intend to use for this buildup. Buying a new balancer is relatively inexpensive, even an 8" balancer for a 383 assembly. I do not want to buy a new flywheel if I can avoid it, and I beleive I can use the balance plate shown in pic. I do intend to fork out for nice new rods, probably 6", to produce a better rod/stroke ratio, and new forged pistons. Right now I'm only concerned with the bottom end. I will soon decide on the heads, and cam setup, possibly roller.

Doe's anyone here use one of these balance plates...?




[Modified by HDIronman, 7:53 PM 5/2/2004]

HDIronman

I do not drive like a granny. A forged crank would be great but not necessary unless this car were only for the strip, and it's not.

Insurance yes, but also a little overkill for the street.

any4xx

I've never used the plate you have pictured, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. As long as you're going to have the engine balanced anyway, I say you've got nothing to lose by ordering one and using it. The balance shop will certainly not be able to get a proper balance if the plate doesn't do it's thing.

munday

I bought speedomotive's (they build a lot of engines for salt flat racing) 500 hp engine. I chose a lesser cam which I now regret. So I should have around 480hp and 500 lb/ft of tq and they recommended a scat cast crank.

Aflac

i'm looking to build the same way. Do you have a link to this in a catalog or toscat themselves?

gkull

IMO - with the large selection of correct crank main journal diameters. Why would anybody even think of using 400 crank and having it turned down. They sell lots of the lower priced cast models in the internally balanced versions

Fevre

Phil

Check out their 383 street or super street kits, $699 or $799 balanced with flywheel. :shocked:

http://ohiocrank.com/crankKits.html


[Modified by Fevre, 11:31 AM 5/3/2004]

MotorHead

We were talking cranks here, rods are a whole new ball game I would not go anything less than a 5140 forged rod. Lots of guys not driving like grannies running 10 -11 sec 1/4 miles on cast cranks. :D