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differential/yoke/U-joint question-help-see picture, tnx

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Old 04-30-2004, 02:35 PM
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Bill Oxley
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Default differential/yoke/U-joint question-help-see picture, tnx

Attached is a picture of my 1974 differential prior to the start of my frame off resto.

Circled in red are the yokes/U-joints. Notice they are different. One has the U shaped bracket, and the other has a bolted on clamp. Which is right, or is this the way they were?
http://www.luoxley.com/Img_0029A.jpg

Thanks for the help on this.

Bill
Old 04-30-2004, 02:42 PM
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GTR1999
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Default Re: differential/yoke/U-joint question-help-see picture, tnx (Bill Oxley)

Bill looks like someone was in there already. Depending on the type of car you have depends on the orignal yoke type. BB and SB with automatics had the strap, SB 4 spds used the U-Bolts. I always use the strap type when rebuilding unless the U-Bolt is needed to be "correct".
Gary
Old 04-30-2004, 11:57 PM
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REDRED62
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Default Re: differential/yoke/U-joint question-help-see picture, tnx (Bill Oxley)

Bill,

Judging from the 7 leaf spring I would say your car has heavy duty suspension package. This would mean that the yoke on the left hand side is original, and the one on the right hand side had been replaced. Someone probably went to the dealer and asked for a yoke. They sold them the standard rear yoke instead of the heavy duty one. It's happened before. Another clue is that since the main drive side of the car is the passenger side, the yoke on this side will wear out faster than the left. The thurst on the yoke against the center pin in the rear end will cause the yoke to wear the tip off. Again, this would lead us to the passenger side of the car as not being correct.

Standard suspension cars used u-bolts P/N 2066840 and yoke 14016136. When you had a car with heavy duty suspension you got a 7 leaf spring(standard used a 9 leaf spring, or 10 if you count the small top plate), heavy duty yoke 3872922 that used caps 3872909 and a bolt set. (left side of car)

The car will run just fine with the set up you have. But when you take out the right hand side to stop the leak you might want to replace the yoke with the correct one. Also, you might want to address the front pinion leak(appears to be dripping on the exhaust pipe.) and the rust factor. The rust on the upper rear crossmember is pretty bad. Smack it with a hammer and see how bad it is. Also the same for the upper cross member.

This car might be worth fixing propely but you need to address the rust problem going on under the car and the leaks (which is probably why you have it on the lift).


Red


[Modified by REDRED62, 4:58 AM 5/1/2004]


[Modified by REDRED62, 5:01 AM 5/1/2004]
Old 05-01-2004, 10:51 AM
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Bill Oxley
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Default Re: differential/yoke/U-joint question-help-see picture, tnx (REDRED62)

Thanks for the replys!

Red, the pinion seal was leaking and I've replaced it. The entire rear end, all parts, and front end parts are already off the car. Actually, the rust looks worse than it actually was. It's all been de-rusted now and truned out real well. New Van Steel T/A assemblies, VBP O-ring calipers all the way around, rebuilt the control arms, everything is new. Just about to start re-installing everything.

Big job, but so far I'm real pleased with the "so far" results.

But stay tuned, I'll probably have more questions :D

Thanks again!

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