7t5

Finally got around to a thorough check today and it looks like both trailing arms are due for replacement. Kind of a bummer but expected after 25+years. The real question concerns the brakes. It sure looks like somebody was in there because the pads seem real thick and the rotors look great, too. How do I know if the calipers are stainless? I am guessing that they will have to come off. The reason I was looking is because they seem to be hanging up when I release the brakes and they groan for a couple of seconds before releasing completely. Is this common? Will a good bleed help matters?
The rotors are definitely new, as the rivets are drilled out. (one small plus)
I sure wish I had jumped on the Trailing arm G.P.
I know these topics have been recently covered but I always seem to have difficulties with the search. Thanks for any replies.

hawgn68

7T5,
If the brakes are sticking, chances are the rubber flex line is bad. A piece of debris or old rubber, will allow pressure to the pistons for application, but it won't allow it to released immediately and the brakes drag. New lines are relatively cheap.
What's wrong with your trailing arms? Good luck.

Jim

7t5

Good advice. That will be my first try for the brakes.
As far as the control arms go, The left side has movement on the 6-12 and the 3-9 positions when I grab the wheel. The right side has 6-12 only. Any more advice? Thanks for the reply.
mike

Z-man

Don't forget that Vette brakes drag slightly on the rotors anyway. There are springs behind the pistons pushing them on to the rotors. If there is no leakage showing, you might not need to replace them. However, if you have the TAs out, it might be a good time to put in SS calipers so you don't have to do it later (your call). I think the only way to tell if there are SS sleeves is to remove the piston seal and examine the caliper cylinder - but that ruins the seal... Another way (maybe), my SS calipers were painted silver from VB and have a serial number stamped on them. If yours look like this, maybe yours were replaced???

In my opinion, pulling or pushing on the wheel isn't a very accurate means of measuring whether something is in spec or not. Someone might think it is a bearing and it could be the trailing arm itself, or the u-joints that need replacement. I would just check each item independently...

Good luck :)

NHvette

Several conclusions can be made from tire shaking, but none are absolute.

12/6 movement only >> likely strut rod bushings or worn side yokes in the differential.
3/9 amd 12/6 movement >> likely wheel bearings worn.

Both of these cases could be partially attributed to bad (loose) Ujoints or
loose trailing arm bushings (where it bolts into pivot @ frame).
There may even be a remote chance that spindle flange bolts are loose or
the trailing arm stud nuts (retain everything to TA) have loosened.

If you're lucky, it's not the trailing arm bushings - since you would have to
remove the entire unit to fix this. Everything else can unbolt with the TA itself
staying attached to the frame.

As far as SS calipers go ... gotta look inside for that shiny sleeve. If you're
careful, you should be able to reassemble without mucking up the seal.

It helps to get a friend to wiggle the wheel while you crawl down and see what's moving underneath.

Good luck :seeya

7t5

Someone did give this car the classic bent strut rod lineup in the past so those are going to be changed when I do the rest. Maybe the bushings there are bad. That would be better I suppose than T.A. removal. Okay, now for the million dollar question---How to tell if T.A. bushings are worn?
When I bought the car I saw the strut rods bent but assumed (wrongly, apparently) that this was because of the flattened spring. So for sure I need a spring, strut rods, brake work and maybe some bearing r&r. Better start saving some money! I looked for a car for a long time and still didn't know enough before buying it! Buy high, sell low!
:nopity