garandfan

Well after 7 months, the car finally was able to move under it's own power!! :party:

I still have a couple small things to do like emblems, and trim pieces, and side pipe install, but for the most part, that big light at the end of the tunnel has been seen!! I took a 8 mile test drive, still have a couple issues (see seperate post). I needed to get it done this week, I have the front end allignment scheduled for thursday, and the exhaust for Sat. Need less to say, it was rather loud with just the straight pipes with no mufflers!! :) Well here are some recent photos:

This was yesterday

Re-chromed pieces to install

Linear actuators mounted and working the head lights. Remember, I don't have a single vacumn line in the entire car!!

First time outside since last Sept.!!

:steering: :chevy

Thanks again for all that helped answer my questions during the rebuild, and hope to see you guys at the cruise in.

Frank

stingraymaniac

nice!!
:thumbs: :thumbs:
:cool: :cool:

garandfan

Thanks, it was a lot of hard work, but now I get to enjoy it again!!

barkingowl

She's a beauty! I can't wait till I have my 74 back... :cool: :cheers: :party: :party: :party:

Twin_Turbo

Can you shed some light on the linear actuators? That's beatiful, a whole lot nicer than a clumsy setup that converts a rotating motion to a translating (reciprocating) one.

Can you tell me what actuators they are, how much they cost and what you used to trigger them???

garandfan

They are SPAL 4" actuators, that have modified ends on them. I also tore them apart and remounted the lower limit switch to stop the travel at 2 5/8 inches. (this is the nominal travel of the headlight arm). Fabricated the brackets to fit in the upper holes on the HD unit, then I installed the hood, and found that they interfered with the hood, so I had to modify the brackets to fit in the lower two holes.

I have 200.00 in the actuators, and about 50 in brackets, and mods, so it's not a lot cheaper than the other mech system by 69 my way.

Right now I have them hooked up to a DPDT momentary switch, while I figure out how to connect them to the head light switch with a series on relays. Any electrical engineers out there? I Now how to get them up by taping the low beam light wire with a relay, but the next problem is how to reverse the polarity, and bring them down when the headlight switch is turned off.

Frank

INTIMIDATOR ZO6

:seeya Very sharp... :thumbs: :cool: :yesnod: :cheers:

JoeC427

:iagree:

68BLUEVETTE

Wire two relays in series coing off of the switch that actuate upon contact made when lights are turned on. One relay will be wired as normally closed which will allow current to flow when light switch is not engaged (allowing for closure). Wire the other as normally open when no power is applied. -- As you turn on the lights, both relays will actuate, one opening the reverse polarity circuit while the other closes actuating the arm. When you turn off the lights and disengage the switch, the circuit that opened the lights will be disconneced, while the other will the actuate.

The DPDT you have in the ciruit will work. Just wire in series with power and your light switch. Both outputs should have an "NO" or "NC" terminal on them. Just wire the power in opposite directions.

-not an electrical engineer, but an engineer non-the less with an interest in controls. Its sad really... :nopity


[Modified by 68BLUEVETTE, 10:18 PM 4/26/2004]

LemansBlue68

Your work is turning out awesome!! Those headlight actuators are the cleanest replacement I've ever seen for replacing the vacuum operated system. Beautiful!! I'm saving this thread for future reference.

Once again, very nice and thanks! Keep up the good work. :thumbs:

Vette X 3

You might also consider a "stepping" relay where every other contact is "up" and the contacts in-between are "down". Nice job engineering the fix and on the great level of detail. Enjoy!

Bill
'82 CE (in progress)

71stingraybigblock

I love it! I love it! I love it! Your almost finished project almost makes me want to completely tear my Vette down and rebuild it! Almost. Very nice work. Have you thought about selling your headlight actuator system as a kit? I would be interested.

zwede

I made a quick schematic for you... click on the picture for full size.



And here's a diagram that shows the relay pins. The relays you need are standard Bosch style automotive relays. About $3-$4 each. They will have the numbers on them on the bottom identifying the pins.

garandfan

On your top schematic, what do these locations correspond to on the bosch relay numbers?

Thanks So much!!

Frank

garandfan

It's not perfected yet, but I'll write up a paper on what you have to do, when I get a chance, and it will be there for any one who wants to use it as a third alternative!! :-)

If you are really interested and in a hurry, drop me a email, and I'll try to walk you through it.

Frank

MEGALADON

Thats a cool setup :thumbs:

zwede

If you rotate the bottom pic 90 degrees counter-clockwise you should see how it matches up. On relay #1 the top left is 87A. Underneath it is 87. To the right is 30. The 2 bottom ones are 85 and 86. Relay 2 is mirrored.

Zane

Hmmm. Sure would be nice if the headlight switch had a Normally Closed (NC) contact so that you can have the system fail with the lights open :eek:
Safer yet is to use a spring return actuators (Power to close with a NC contact off a headlight switch.)

DMONSVETTE

Looking good! :cheers: :thumbs: :seeya

66walt71

Sweet vette Frank, We should have a cruise in at anniston! GCA vettes and Garands. Take it to the range, Walt