kaiserbud

In re-doing my interior, inuslation and all, what about he plugs in the floorboard. Some are the OEM (?) black plastic plugs, but other holes have a grey silicone putty over them to fill the hole. What is reccommended - remove the putty and get plugs or remove pougs and re-apply all putty? :confused:


[Modified by kaiserbud, 9:34 PM 4/24/2004]

kaiserbud

Ordered these plugs from Dr Rebuild today. Theysay there are 6 of them - I thin k that is right. I may not install them, as I think it might be best for insulation to have them sealed. But - as for my question, I think they are for draining water, should water get into the cabin

Corvette ED

Corvettes leak water and that what they are for.

Wrecked82

-0-

kaiserbud

????

terry82

when i replaced my interior, i pluged all the holes because i wanted to keep out noise and dirt .

kaiserbud

I have to agree with this - I am considering plugging mine with silicone or something - any ideas? Also I notices there is already a grey silicone putty at the rear of the floorboards where the back support to the seats is. That appears to be a metal pice . I wonder if there were issues with leaks here or that was a commmon factory sealing method (although it looks a bit sloppy for factory stuff. Any thoughts appreciated.Did you have

Wrecked82

-0- = zero.

My plugs were missing when I was putting in reflector heat barrier. Found out the source of smell in the car - damp carpet underlayment. So, duct tape over hole on inside, then plumbers goop (harder silicone) over inside and then plumbers goop on outside also. Sprayed heavily carpet with a bacteriocide, mildewcide, fungide, ordor eliminator product I found at Home Depot and everything nice and dry and nice smelling inside.

Those "drain holes" are worthless - if I get that much water in the floor pans, I can punch out the goop.

GATOR454

I used two fender washers, a rubber washer a screw and a wing nut. I jb welded the screw to the inner fender washer and put the rubber washer on the outside under the other fender washer. This way if I ever have to use it as a drain I can undo the wingnut and push up on the scew to drain without having to deal with the carpet over the drain.

wcsinx

No value, they'll let in more water than they'll ever let out. I used a piece of sheet metal and sealed it down front and back with marine epoxy then hit both sides with rubber undercoating spray.

Chuck Gongloff

If I'm reading your question correctly, your 69 used the plugs to retain the carpet. There are 3 on each side...up on the toe board...not on the floor board. The plugs hold the carpet up on the toe board. There are also several on the rear bulkhead...also to hold the carpet up. Those plugs are not used to drain water. :) Hope this helps. Chuck

ZD75blue

I was reading that the two in the center of the floorboards act as a 1 way valve for water... if you ever swamp your car...

Remember, always approach waves at a 45 degree angle... you dont want them to wash out your stern! Then again, all boats built after '73 are supposed to have postive floation... :jester

kaiserbud

Hey CHuck - LTNS... No - I was referring to the short profile plastic drain plugs in the floorboard. I see where the previous owner had used some type of grey putty (silicone) to cover them... AS WELL AS the rear seam at the base of the bulkhead (Part behind seat). I heard of some using HD plumbers and one post here of Marine Expoxy. Any suggestions as to what to use or if necessary... I am sure this is not factory - as it was kinda messy.

Also - if I may, I will ultimately be painting a ceramic paint on the floor baord for insulation purposes. WOuld I put down the silicone or putty first and then apply the ceramic coating - or visa versa.. I amthinkning paint first - as I know it will bond to the fibverglass. Then silicon on top, as if it does not stick, it will only be the top coat that will peel. Hope this is clear.

Thanks


[Modified by kaiserbud, 9:52 PM 5/3/2004]