68BLUEVETTE

I was having problems with a slow start a few weeks ago until the car decided not to start at all. Wouldn't respond to a jump. I went straight to the starter since it was running strong (when running) and the starts were always slow. I replace the starter with a new (rebuilt) on and now I am getting repeated clicking with no turnover. Initially the engine turns, maybe a 10-20 teath on the flywheel, but then just gives way to clicking. I though it was gear mesh, so I put the old nose in, but same problem. I then thought the new one had a bad solenoid, so I put a new one of those on the new starter. Same problem. I am thinking that the solenoid is not pulling all the way in and maybe the gears are just missing, but I'm not sure...Can anyone off guidance on where to look next? Could there be a wiring problem? I have a new engine harness I was planning on putting in. Or could it be the ignition switch? Is there a way to positively eliminate or prove the problem location or am I looking at the shotgun approach? Any advice would be appreciated.

1968
427/390
convertible

sjr1971

Might want to manually turn the engine over to isolate an engine prob from an electrical one.

70ZZ3 96LT4

Are the original post type battery cables still being used? I used to have a problem with my 68 when the engine was hot. letting it set for a few minutes and it not wanting to crank. I put the most powerful battery I could fit in the compartment. It was a Delco and this battery was called the Delco Tuff One or something like that. It lasted longer than any battery I have ever owned and always started the car even when it was very hot outside and the engine hot. Have another Delco in it now and it has always done the job. The battery costs about 70-80 dollars three years ago. Anyway you could have some corrision in the cables that is not clearly visible, make sure you have a fully charged battery. A fully charged battery should register more than 12 volts. I have checked mine after a drive and it registered just over 13. Put a battery charger on it until it registers just over 13 volts if it will and see what your starter does.


[Modified by 70ZZ3 96LT4, 3:05 AM 4/23/2004]

R. Bruno

That sure sounds like a battery problem. I recently had a battery in another car that would not respond to a jump or a charge. Just because it still won't start, this does not eliminate the battery. I assume you've had it tested?

68BLUEVETTE

1) engine still turns in the brief rotation of the starter. I can see that from the alternator fan while trying to turn it over just prior to the clicking, so its not frozen.
2) I thought it was the battery cables too, so I jumpered the battery directly to the battery post on the starter, bypassing the cable, and still got the same problem - not sure if the juice is getting back through the switch to the solenoid (properly) Tomorrow I am going to hot wire the solenoid closed just to make sure that the pinion is fully extended. I'm not sure there is a chance of the pinion improperly meshing with the flywheel, but I'd like to eliminate that as a possibility.
3) I'm using a brand new 60 mo battery that still tests at 12.4 V even after all the repeated starting attempts. For the heck of it, I bought a new battery at the start of all this just to elminate that as a possibility.

82collectorshark

You bypassed the positive cable by jumping directly to the starter's large positive terminal I'm assuming. Do that again,this time bypassing the negative cable also by attaching your charger(?) negative directly to the starter body.Now jump from positive to the small "start" terminal and note the reaction.Doing this will effectively bypass all the cableing and ign. switch and will tell you if you have a bum rebuilt starter(if it still does the same thing).This assumes that the engine itself is not binding. See if you can turn the engine by hand or with a socket on the crank bolt,if accessable.If it works keep the bypass cables on and try it with the key just to make sure there is not a voltage drop in the crank circuit,but I doubt it as this does not sound like that symptom.Good luck :cheers:

68BLUEVETTE

Starter works fine when bypassed. Took a reading, and I'm only getting a 0.16 drop through jumper cables hooked to battery cables in car to the battery post on the starter. When jumped from another car, I'm getting > 14 V at the starter. HOWEVER - took a voltage reading while engine is trying to crank at the Switch terminal of the solenoid, and I'm getting only 3.3 volts at peak. (fluctuates between <1 and 3.3) I guess this pretty much dooms my wiring. Any suggestions as to an easy troubleshooting or fix that will get me up and running for the summer? I had planned on redoing the interior this winter, but if I have to take out the dash to re-wire, I might as well do the interior now.