Adding power brakes
04-21-2004, 10:55 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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Location: Sacramento CA
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Adding power brakes
I have a 71 coupe with no power brakes. Is adding power brakes as simple as bolting in a booster and mabey a different proportioning valve?
04-21-2004, 11:27 PM
#2
Re: Adding power brakes (c40927)
Adding power brakes to the car is not hard but not easy. The proportioning valve is the same with or without power brakes. The lines from the master cylinder to the valve are different on a power brake car. You will need to change these.
The tricky part about doing this is the hole in the firewall and the two extra holes you will need to drill in the firewall. If you remove the old master cylinder from the car and go inside and look out toward the hole. You will see a metal reinforcement in the firewall. The hold for the non power brake car was a simple round hole. The hole for the power brake car was more a tear drop shape and if you look at the reinforcement close. You will see where this hole needs to be. The reinforcement was used on both non and power brake applications.
So, take a die grinder with a side cutter bit. Use the reinforcement for a template and cut the hole.
Now, there are two studs sticking out of the dash for the non power brake master cylinder. (Someone help me here It’s been six years since I did this myself) I think you can knock these two studs out of the firewall with a sharp smack of a hammer. The original boosters had four studs on them for mounting. Two holes will already be in the firewall. Two will need to be drilled. It’s pretty explanatory if you just look at it. Once you mount the booster and the cylinder, then run your lines.
Ok... Last of the tricky part... The clevis from the old pedal should work fine... But you will need to move the clevis to the lower hole on the brake pedal. OK,,,,, Here comes the problem child.... The brake lamp switch tab on the pedal will need to be fabricated or bought. There is not a new part available here. This is the tab that bolts to the pedal and hits the switch to turn the rear lamps on and off. It’s not hard to make it if you have the time or the equipment.
This is not a hard job to do. May take you a few hours... The hardest part is putting the nuts on the studs that are now inside the car. You will need the following.
2x 12 " extensions.
2x swivel joints for the extensions
1 tube of glue.
1 roll of electrical tape..
1 extra nut.
Put one swivel in between the two extensions, put one swivel on the end with your socket attached to it. Take the electrical tape and tape around the swivel joints. This will make them stiff and easier to move and hold in place for putting the nut on. Put the extra nut inside the socket for spacing(you may need two depends on the socket you use) then glue with one drop the first nut in the socket. Since the nuts are almost in heaven, this will make getting the nuts started easier.
Good luck
Red
The tricky part about doing this is the hole in the firewall and the two extra holes you will need to drill in the firewall. If you remove the old master cylinder from the car and go inside and look out toward the hole. You will see a metal reinforcement in the firewall. The hold for the non power brake car was a simple round hole. The hole for the power brake car was more a tear drop shape and if you look at the reinforcement close. You will see where this hole needs to be. The reinforcement was used on both non and power brake applications.
So, take a die grinder with a side cutter bit. Use the reinforcement for a template and cut the hole.
Now, there are two studs sticking out of the dash for the non power brake master cylinder. (Someone help me here It’s been six years since I did this myself) I think you can knock these two studs out of the firewall with a sharp smack of a hammer. The original boosters had four studs on them for mounting. Two holes will already be in the firewall. Two will need to be drilled. It’s pretty explanatory if you just look at it. Once you mount the booster and the cylinder, then run your lines.
Ok... Last of the tricky part... The clevis from the old pedal should work fine... But you will need to move the clevis to the lower hole on the brake pedal. OK,,,,, Here comes the problem child.... The brake lamp switch tab on the pedal will need to be fabricated or bought. There is not a new part available here. This is the tab that bolts to the pedal and hits the switch to turn the rear lamps on and off. It’s not hard to make it if you have the time or the equipment.
This is not a hard job to do. May take you a few hours... The hardest part is putting the nuts on the studs that are now inside the car. You will need the following.
2x 12 " extensions.
2x swivel joints for the extensions
1 tube of glue.
1 roll of electrical tape..
1 extra nut.
Put one swivel in between the two extensions, put one swivel on the end with your socket attached to it. Take the electrical tape and tape around the swivel joints. This will make them stiff and easier to move and hold in place for putting the nut on. Put the extra nut inside the socket for spacing(you may need two depends on the socket you use) then glue with one drop the first nut in the socket. Since the nuts are almost in heaven, this will make getting the nuts started easier.
Good luck
Red
04-22-2004, 07:12 AM
#3
Race Director
Re: Adding power brakes (REDRED62)
I was going to do this and even had all the parts for it. It was going to require to much modification to the firewall to make it right. Get yourself a Hydroboost system. It is much smaller and there is a much better pedal feel. The install was a breeze and no modifications to the firewall is needed. http://www.hydroboost.com My brakes have never been better.
