L79vette

Putting Hooker Comps on the '67. Driver's side header went on fine, but the collector exit is very close to the corner where the firewall and transmission tunnel intersect. The reducer wouldn't even bolt on until I cut off part of it. Now it has very little clearance, maybe 1/8 inch. I can do some more cutting on the reducer, but wanted to see if anyone else had similar issues with fitting these headers. Good clearance to motor mount, oil filter, clutch linkage. Not sure I can cut enough off this thing to allow sufficient pipe clearance and have anything left of the reducer to attach to. Maybe I'll have to do a miter cut on the reducer to make a sharp turn of 30 degrees or so. That's not going to be too swift for flow.

I posted this in C1/C2 but got no response. I know a lot of you guys have put on your own headers.


Any similar experiences?

slaine

Dooood, Ya have my sympathy. I've got the exact same problem with my 80 small block. I guess that I'm going to do a buttweld from the reducer to the exhaust pipe. I'm cutting off the exhaust pipe as far back as possible to make the angle at the reducer as small as possible. I've got the car up in the air and I've been steaming about it for a week now. The collector on the passenger side is "aimed" at the auto tranny. Flow will never be balanced. And the passenger exhaust is going to "cook" the Turbo 350. I'm going to put in a crossover pipe behind the tranny mount to help balance flow. Then I'm gonna wrap the exhaust to cut down the heat. Thanx Holley, after this I wouldn't buy "tickets to a dogfight" from you. And yes, I purchased the headers for an automatic. Jeez, I just wanna drive my car. When I get a chance, I'll buy different headers. I had Blackjack headers problem free for 22 years until I hit a black rock at night and tore a flange beyond repair.
Good luck to you. My headers are not the comps and my prob is not quite as bad as yours.
Mike

L79vette

Thanks for the reply. I think my answer is going to be to cut about two inches off the collector and then weld the reducer onto the end. It'll get rid of the flange bolt ring too, which will help ground clearance. That will give plenty of room to make the turn.

What I don't understand is that I bought these used and they were on another car. Some people have said they discovered their cars had the body mounted off-center on the frame. Maybe mine is that way, or maybe the frame is tweaked(!).

slaine

Yeah, I see your point about the body mounting. Eliminating the flange ring will improve clearance. Are you gonna cut 2" of both collectors?
Mike

L79vette

Got 'em done this morning. Took about 3" off each. Should be plenty of room now. Screwed up my header paint though.

L79vette

Mike,

If you bought the headers new you should be able to return them. Maybe they're just a bad set.

Bought mine used, which was dumb.

Z-man

Oh great! I was just getting ready to purchase Super Comps for my SB '70. Do you think they all fit badly? Is there another brand that fits better?

L79vette

I have the Comps, not Super Comps.

I wouldn't run Super Comps on the street. They have 3.5" collectors, and hang even lower than regular headers. They are also made from thinner metal than regular Hooker headers to save weight. For a lot of cars the ground clearance wouldn't be too big a deal, but these cars are incredibly low.

Anyway, if you buy whatever headers new and they were made incorrectly, you can get replacements.

Hard to believe Hookers would have bad fit in general, but I don't know. Many people endorse Dynomax on the forum. I thought the Hooker collector looked better with a more gentle taper. So far I'm disappointed, but again I did buy used. Checked the flanges with a straight edge this morning, and they are slightly warped. I think they'll seal OK, but it's just one more problem.

Vetterodder

I had the same problem with my Doug Thorley's. Muffler shop had to "tweak" the collector with a torch to get it to angle down and then reshaped the reducer cone so that it was at the correct angle to fit the pipe.