AGVI

I'm installing new KYB gas adjusts and need to know if I have to align the front end at the same time?

I was told it has to be done...true? :confused:


[Modified by AGVI, 10:13 AM 4/16/2004]

sb69coupe

:bs

The shocks do not affect the front end alignment.

Edit, sorry for the typo...


[Modified by sb69coupe, 10:51 AM 4/16/2004]

zwede

I think there's a not missing above... Shocks do not affect alignment.

Fevre

:iagree: Unless they are air shocks.

AGVI

OK, thanks guys! Off to work on the Vette now! Rears are almost done...I hope I notice a difference!!!

The shock on the right rear was totally dead. I compressed it easily and it never came back up! :lol:

AGVI

If I was to do the ball joints then I would need an alignment. Correct?



[Modified by AGVI, 6:49 PM 4/16/2004]

MotorHead

I am not planning on getting an alignment when I do mine, I am going to replace upper and lower ball joints and the uppper control arm bushings. If you put everything back together the same way you should be OK but I could be way off base here so hopefullly someone else will chime in.

With the caliber of mechanics around here I would hate to see what knid of mess they would make doing an alighnment, could probably eyeball it better :lol:

NHvette

Yes. Any front end components like tie rod ends/ball joints/bushings.

Shocks - I would say "maybe". Replacing a standard shock with a HD gas
charged shock "CAN" raise the front end slightly. This will effect both camber
and toe-in (due to bump). OK - admittedly, the difference will be small - perhaps
even negligible.

Luckily, both camber and toe-in can be easily checked (rough) with common tools.

:seeya


[Modified by NHvette, 6:59 PM 4/16/2004]

LiveandLetDrive

High pressure shocks may change ride height, check before and after and you'll know.

Ball joints-- YES you do. I didn't see why I would need to either (didn't change tie rods, although they were disconnected) but somehow I ended up with .5" of toe OUT. Might as well, it's cheap insurance against alot of tire wear and better handling too.

-Chris

AGVI

The rears are done. All I can say is HOLY MACKINAW!!! What an incredible difference! I can't wait to do the fronts!

I have one question. What do you guys use to hold the top of the front shocks while trying to turn the release nut?? I can't seem to get a decent grip on it and I don't want to round it off.

Thanks, Les :thumbs:

MotorHead

There should be a flat spot on top of the threads use a pair of vise grips to grab it at that point.

Technically you guys are right you should get an alignment after any front end work. However I have cut springs, replaced shocks and so on and I keep an eye on tire wear and how the car handles and I am not spending the money unless I think there is a problem and I haven't seen one.

If yours was .5 toe out what was it before you did the ball joints ? :D

LiveandLetDrive

I have no idea, but my tires had been wearing normally before the change. Afterwards the insides went slick within 1500 miles (NC -> KS)

-Chris

SharkPilot

[QUOTE]I am not planning on getting an alignment when I do mine, I am going to replace upper and lower ball joints and the uppper control arm bushings. If you put everything back together the same way you should be OK but I could be way off base here so hopefullly someone else will chime in.
-----------

I tried that with mine and it was all over the road on the first test drive. :eek: Oops. So I went back home and roughed it in with string and a tape measure. Got it close enough to drive decently to an alignment shop.
Best of luck...
SharkPilot :steering:

72ls5fla

hi ...

trick I learned when I was working in a Meineke shop ..

DO THIS IF YOU DO NOT CARE ABOUT THE SHOCKS !!!!

Use a 1/2 extension , at least 2 ft long, with a 9/16 (or maybe 5/8) 1/2 6 point deep socket.

Leave the shocks bolted on the bottom.

put the socket over the nut and rock it back and forth .. it will eventually snap the nut and exposed shock threaded rod off.

On the drivers side you will need to move the altenator out ofthe way ...
On the passenge side, should be enough clearance.

This way works great if the nut is rusted and you can't get a vise grip on the top ....

I use it as a last resort.

I can remove both front shocks in less than 15 minutes ...

Bill