Turbo-Jet

Spec is .001-.008". Is .017" a showstopper?

Right rear spindle measured less than .001" cold, but the spindle rotates without much drag so I think this is ok. Also, a rotating shaft with back-back duplex bearings will loosen when at normal running temperatures.

But it looks like I will have to press apart the left assembly and add some shims. Might as well do both sides and replace the bearings at the same time.

Has anyone done this successfully without removing the trailing arms? What special tools are needed? Were can I find them? Does anyone have dwgs of these tools so I can make my own?


[Modified by Turbo-Jet, 1:28 AM 4/15/2004]

Buffalo Dude

I'm no expert, but I'd say both sides need to be redone. All the tools can be found in mid america or ecklers, pretty much any vette specialty store. Sorry, don't know what these really look like so can't help there. I've been told Van Steel does good work and I've got good responses to questions I've asked, but never used their service personally. Really you only need to do stuff with the bearing housings (TAs can stay), but I don't know if you can even just leave the housings on the car if you're replacing the bearings yourself.
Good luck :chevy

PS: Just for reference, this is what happens when you leave them alone for too long. Probably >60k miles on these bearings, although there's no way to know for sure. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=789123


[Modified by Buffalo Dude, 1:51 AM 4/14/2004]

Jughead

I don't know, but maybe Van Steel will check in.

Big Fish

If you look in the GM service manual there are pictures of the tools in use, there may be pictures of the tools at the end of the section as well.

Van Steel

Once you get the rotors off, take off th PB hardware and shoes. You'll see 4 nuts. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Remove them and you can take the bearing assembly off the t-arm. It may not be easy to remove it but it will give eventually.

Question - Did you get the 17 thou w/the rotor or did you get it on the spindle surface? With a 17 thou run out you have a number of things to check out. I would be worried about bent caliper mounting bracket and possibly havin a spun race in the support. You said that it sounded OK so you could possibly eliminate that but I would definately check it out.

kenko74

I can't praise Vansteel enough for their rebuild of my T-arms. Something to consider, and worth every penny. They come back looking brand new--and their work is guaranteed. I've seen too many poorly rebuilt wheel bearings by folks with good intentions, resulting in lots of wasted time and money. Something to consider.

zwede

Changing the bearings is not very difficult. After you have the assembly out as per Van Steel instructions above, remove the spindle nut and press the spindle out. A common hydraulic press will do the trick. About $100 at harbour freight or pay a shop $5 and they'll do it.

Then knock the races out and press the outer bearing off the spindle. You will need a clamshell to do this. $20 at HF or pay a shop another $5...

I found the factory shims to be correct once I put new bearings in. If your bearings are old you may find the same thing. Otherwise you will need to get some different shims. If you think you will be trying several different shims get an extra bearing and hone it out on the inside with a dremel so that it is slip fit rather than press. Then you can try different shims without having to press the bearing all the time. Once you find the correct shim swap the bearing out for another new one and press.

As for the right side: if the bearing has any play at all it is fine. It just can't be pre-loaded.

Turbo-Jet

I measured the endplay at spindle. Rotor runout is pretty much impossible to measure with this much endplay (which is how I discovered the problem in the first place... :( )

Yeah, it sounds ok- no strange noises and it spins nicely but I image things will get worse pretty quickly. What are your concerns with a bent caliper bracket? Is this a cause or effect?

I guess the first thing to check is that the drive flange is tight and secure.

Turbo-Jet

Thanks, sounds like not too bad of a job. I have a few presses at work I can play with. Good idea on the bearing mod trick.

What are the dimensions of the GM shims (OD ID?) I have access to all sorts of ground and hardened tooling shims that should do the job.

Big Fish

" If you think you will be trying several different shims get an extra bearing and hone it out on the inside with a dremel so that it is slip fit rather than press."

I agree that the original shims will often work or be very close, but the above method just can't be proper. Turn down an old spindle or get a bearing setup tool to get the slip fit you need, that way you will be shimming the new bearings you will be using, not an old worn bearing with tolerances that can be a lot different then the new ones. The shim dimensions you asked about are 1-3/16 ID X 1-1/2 OD

zwede

[QUOTEI agree that the original shims will often work or be very close, but the above method just can't be proper. Turn down an old spindle or get a bearing setup tool to get the slip fit you need, that way you will be shimming the new bearings you will be using, not an old worn bearing with tolerances that can be a lot different then the new ones. [/QUOTE]

No, I recommended he get an extra new bearing to hone out. It is pointless to select the shim based on an old bearing. He can hone out a new bearing, find the shim, then replace it with another new bearing. The bearing is only $10 or so. Easier than finding a spare spindle.

GTR1999

The last 6 rear spindles I rebuilt I started off using the original bearing shim and it always had about .012-.015 endplay. I use a surface grinder to fit them to .0015-.002" and just use light spindle oil on them when setting up in the housing with a setup tool.
Be careful if you try using one of those spindle presses you see in the books. If things are rusted on tight you may damage the caliper bracket.
Gary

Big Fish

Sorry Zwede, I see that you did mention an extra new bearing now. I don't think a spindle setup tool is very costly though.

red79c3

Goto http://www.artscorvetteparts.com they will have what you need for sure. Best bet is to get there phone number off the site and call and ask for Kenny he's the owner. Over 20 yrs exp with Vettes. Good person for info.