SuprJames

The brake hose coming from the driverside rear caliper line is leaking where it goes into that brass block (the one with the lines that go to the right rear and proportioning valve). I've tightened it pretty tight. It is almost to the point where I'm afriad I'll strip it if I continue to tighten it. The thing is still leaking. It dosen't feel crossthreaded. Should I just keep cranking on it or what? It's my last leak!!

BTW, for those of you that read my problem with the bleeder coming out with the sleeve VBP installed, I fixed it by unscrewing the sleeve completely and locking two nuts together on the sleeve's threads, placing it in a vice, and unscrewing the bleeder valve from the sleeve. Then I put Threadlock on the sleeve and Neversieze on the bleedervalve and screwed it all back into the caliper using the bleederscrew. Worked great after a few hours of letting the Threadlock cure.

70 LS1

Either the brass block has an imperfection in the seating surface allowing it to leak. Or the flare has a crack in it and the more you tighten, the bigger the crack. You need to take apart the union and inspect the block and the flare. I had this same problem when I replaced my brake lines and it ended up being the block.

SuprJames

Man, that thing is such a pain to get to too. :nonod:

Chuck Gongloff

Agree with Jeff. Also, are you using SS lines? They're notorious for leaking at the unions. They're so hard that they won't "compress" and seal. Chuck

SuprJames

Yes, they're SS. The hose in question though is brass going into a brass block.

Turbo-Jet

are you referring to the connection from the flex line to LR block?

if so, isn't this a NPT thread? are you using Teflon tape to ensure proper tightening? are the threads ok?

R. Bruno

:iagree: I too had same problem with the SS lines. What worked was that I kept tightening and loosening, seating and unseating and finally cranked down on them tight and got them seated.