geoff4961

I need to replace both Drive shaft and drive axle joints i have done the drive shaft on other cars, But as a new corvette owner I have discovered that everything is a lot tighterand harder to repair. I will be lifting the car off the ground by about 20" so its one of the deals where im on my back.
Am i waisting my time trying t do it myself ? What type should i use Grease fitting or not ?. I went to my local Auto Zone and they sell them for about $13.00 each. Will they be good enough?
I a new owner of a 76 corvette and one of the things I wanted to do is the repair myself, how dificult of a job is this?
Thanks for your help
Geoff in Michigan

Chuck Gongloff

Not too hard if you have basic mechanical skills. MOST of the time, after you get the half shafts/drive shaft out, you can press the old one's out using your bench vice and 2 sockets from your wrench set.

Original U joints had no grease fittings, and many consider them "stronger" since they're not drilled out internally for the grease passages. You can still get the non grease fitting ones from Spicer. Chuck

Bobchad

I have done the drive shaft and it is an easy job. The rear needs to be on jackstands, as compared to ramps, so the wheels can be turned rotating the drive shaft into position where the u-joint bolts can be reached with a socket.

Larry B.

Half shaft joints can be a real challange. I'd use nothing but spicers.. Any of the cheapies don't last very long or at worst break while you're driving.

surfolly

I replaced the universals in my '80 about 11 years ago and while I know a lot of folks who press the u-joints in themselves, it was so much easier to take the shafts to a local driveshaft specialist and have them press in the new joints. was able to purchase the spicer joints from them as well and evrything was inexpensive as well. I'm getting ready to remove the shafts to put in new joints without the fittings because of a stronger motor and I hardly put any miles on the car anyway.

GTR1999

Get the spicers they run about $18 each. Get the zerkless unless you have low power automatic car that you won't beat on. This is not a flame on low power car BTW. I'll be using TRW's w/zerks on my 300 hp TH400 car. I've also cracked in 1/2 a zerked joint on a 300 hp 4 speed car.
You need to use a plate to support the joint flange or they will bend and be junk. I use a press to install but others walk them in using an air hammer or even a vise. removing them is the hard part, fastest way is to burn them out at the cross with a "blue wrench" or even a die grinder. A vise isn;t going to get them out unless it is super HD. The driveshaft is much easier and the joints are smaller.
Good luck,
Gary

Brown78

:yesnod: If you have changed U-joints on other cars, you can change these. Just take your time and press the joint in and make sure to set the clips. I just changed the inner and outer on the passenger side this past week. Used a vice and a 1/2 in. socket to press the caps on. Oh ya after you get the half shaft out and on the table, you'll have to cut off the old u-joint that is on the T-arm end. I used a cutting torch only because I'm a welder. Take it to a welding shop. Give the guy 5 bucks to cut it off. I paid $18.00 a peace for my u-joints. Good Luck :seeya


[Modified by Brown78, 8:21 PM 4/9/2004]

isosceles

I just recently replaced the joints and did not have to cut the joints out of my 79 half shafts. On reinstallation however, I did BEND one flange that is on the T-arm end. After I bent it I tried removing it. Once the caps were out I could no longer remove the trunnion and it WOULD have to be cut out. I orded a new flange with the ujoint already in it from Van Steel.

Since I am hunting down a vibration, took the driveshaft back out an had it balanced. I should have done that the first time and had the shop install the new ujoints. :smash: