NHvette

Ok, thanks for stopping in to help me out. I have explored most every nook
and cranny of my 'vette, but there is one area that I chose to avoid.

When my trailing arms needed help, I bought a rebuilt set. Several years
later, I am now re-installing them on my chassis. They are all in place, and I
even have all the parking brake hardware installed.

The trouble is that the driver's side bearings sound 'dry' when they are spun.
The passenger side is much better, but could probably use a greasing, too.
I will soon (maybe tonight) be measuring the end-play and runout before I
start tearing into them.

So, here's my question:

When I 'pop out' the spindles, does the outer bearing fit through the outer
grease seal ? Can I remove the spindle, regrease, and reinstall without
destroying any of the components ? Actually, I plan on the inner seal, since
I will want to clean and re-pack the inner bearing. But, does the outer seal
get pushed out by the outer bearing ?

I plan to make a tool from an old spindle nut and and one of the shafts from an air hammer chisel set.

Thanks for all replies. :seeya


[Modified by NHvette, 6:33 PM 4/7/2004]

norvalwilhelm

The outer grease seal gets pushed out with the axle. Unless your inner is slip fit it can be difficult to remove for greasing. For checking end play the bearings MUST be dry. A greased bearing will not work. After checking and adusting dry the bearing will seem tight after greasing but let it be and after a few miles it will loosen up.
Set end play dry, grease and add seals and forget how tight it feels it will loosen up.

Twin_Turbo

:withstupid: :) local mechanic screwed it up the same way, packed the bearings, then adjsuted the play only to find out later there was too much play.

It will be hard to lube them, you have to press the assembly apart and you will most likely end up destroying the inner bearing so you will need new inner bearings and races most likely and a new seal too. Might as well do it right the first time.

dman535

I turned down my spindles for a slip fit. Have had zero problem. Still not sure why GM pressed them on, just doesn't make sense. The front bearings are not pressed on to the spindle and they carry twice the weight of the rear bearings.

norvalwilhelm

Seems Norval's slip fit bearings make so much sense esp if you check them at least every 30k like you are supposed to. Or maybe I am just a simpleton. What is the adv of a press fit bearing in this situation?

Yes I do believe in slip fitting the inner bearing and it only takes a few minutes with emery paper on a lathe to get the inner bearing to slide on the axle. I do take mine apart every few years for inspection and regreasing and something that comes apart really easy you tend to do more.

In the beginning when our system of independent rear suspension was first used it was with drum breaks. In that case break a axle and the wheel would come out. When they went to disc brakes a broken axle would still not cause the wheel to walk out because of the caiper.

I don't believe in outer slip fit bearings but definitely slip fit the inner. If you guys service your cars in the future you will love slip fit inner bearings.

norvalwilhelm

Seems Norval's slip fit bearings make so much sense esp if you check them at least every 30k like you are supposed to. Or maybe I am just a simpleton. What is the adv of a press fit bearing in this situation?

Yes I do believe in slip fitting the inner bearing and it only takes a few minutes with emery paper on a lathe to get the inner bearing to slide on the axle. I do take mine apart every few years for inspection and regreasing and something that comes apart really easy you tend to do more.

In the beginning when our system of independent rear suspension was first used it was with drum breaks. In that case break a axle and the wheel would come out. When they went to disc brakes a broken axle would still not cause the wheel to walk out because of the caiper.

I don't believe in outer slip fit bearings but definitely slip fit the inner. If you guys service your cars in the future you will love slip fit inner bearings.

Big Fish

The outer bearing will stay with the spindle and will force the outer seal off as well. Reassembly is different, the spacer and correct shim combination are placed against the inner bearing, then the outer bearing and seal is installed. The spindle is then press-fitted through everything. You will need a press to assemble it, or the GM special tool that can do it while the unit is on the car. Helps to freeze the spindle overnight and work quickly to get it together before it warms up. You can make a setup tool from an old spindle, just machine it down for a slip fit for the bearings. Do not attempt to draw the spindle in using the spindle nut, it will be destroyed. :cheers:

Twin_Turbo

yes, and do not use a knocker to take the whole deal apart, the thread on the spindle is easily destroyed.

GTR1999

Dave if you're going to take them apart figure on new bearings and seals at the minimum. The bearing kits Bairs sells run about $50 so it's not worth trying to reuse them-IMPO
Gary

Dalannex

The bearing will push the seal out when you push the spindle out, so you need a new seal, but to get the bearing off the spindle you need to use a bearing separator and pull the bearing off. I don't like to reuse the bearing after pulling on it that hard to get it off. I just spend the $50 and get new bearings and seals and do it up.


-Justin

Fevre

Seems Norval's slip fit bearings make so much sense esp if you check them at least every 30k like you are supposed to. Or maybe I am just a simpleton. :confused: What is the adv of a press fit bearing in this situation?

GTR1999

:D Fevre I don't know about that,maybe you're just related to the Wits? You know them right,the three brothers Dim, Half, and of course Nit?
Only joking of course,
Gary

Fevre

I resemble that remark! :mad

:jester

NHvette

Well, thanks for the news I didn't want to hear.
These assemblies have less than 10k miles on them, so I was hopping to re-use
as much as possible.
This sucks. It's gonna really slow me down. :mad :nopity

OK Darrel and Darrel ... that's enough fighting between brothers. :jester :p:


[Modified by NHvette, 11:52 PM 4/8/2004]

Turbo-Jet

I'm re-opening this one :D

Both cones of the rear bearings are press-fitted to the spindle to stop creep. Race creep is when the ring rotates slowly upon it's shaft when it is not suppose to. Creep can cause fretting and start fatigue cracks in the spindle. It can also cause the shaft to wear to the point where it will jam and induce a high point on the inner raceway. This will cause high heat and rapid bearing wear. The reason creep control is an issue for the rear spindles and not the front is because the rear assembly is not preloaded.

However, a press fit is not always required in such applications, but a proper transitional fit is much harder to control than a press fit, so GM went with what is cheap and easier. A sliding fit is not a good idea.