Corey_68

I re-dyed my interior and the dye whould leave a white, milky section on parts of the seats and other pieces. I figured it was go away after it dried but it didn't and the itiems whould look dull afterwards. In a ditch effort I sprayed some clear over those white areas and they went away. I thought it was just a bad can but I've used 6 cans total, 3 separate orders and they are all the same, The only problem now is that the dash and door panels are fairly glossy. The look like you just applied a coat of Black Magic or Amorall, but all the time. The dash and door panels aren't bad but I did one seat and I think it's a "litte much". I guess I'll have to post some pics to get an opinion.

Has anyone else done this? :confused:

Corey_68

Anyone????? :confused:

MN-Brent

No.

I think its a good idea though as any wear and tear would happen first to the clear outer coating and would save your color coatings. I think I read this somewhere as a recommended way to do it-maybe from Mid America.

Either way youll be happy with your results if you prep properly.

Forgot to add, keep an eye on the humidity level when you paint, I did have some trouble with a section because of this and had to do it over. My prep method was washing parts with Dawn dish soap and drying and then a quick wipe with Xylol/Xylene solvent, which advertised no residue left over after drying. I didnt have any milking colors show up. Went from Tan to Black and I didnt use a primer. Results are great so far- 2 years now.

Brent...


[Modified by MN-Brent, 7:46 PM 4/7/2004]

BBShark

Whitish areas in paint are usually caused by gassing of solvents or water underneath. You can cover it temporarily with clear but it will probably come back. I would strip the panels (with thinner) and thoroughly dry them. Then paint. I have used SEM paint for interiors and it works great. However, my opinion (like yours) is that it is too glossy. You can add flatner to the paint which is available at the same paint outlets that carry SEM paint.

NorthVette

I tried using a satin finish clear coat on my seat buckets as a test, but was not very happy with the result... The red shadded a little darker and I found it a little too glossy... I would avoid using it again... As mentioned above, the best way to get a good finish is lots of cleaning with soap and water, them wipe clean with a solvent... Your pieces can never be too clean!

Good luck!

1Bad69

i wonder if the parts that dried funny were stained or something....can you prime the parts first then dye them?

lbell101

This problem is called blushing.
We see this in interior dyes and laquers all the time, less so in urethanes.
It's caused by spraying in too high of humidity or having alot of water vapor in your compressor or lines. Most of the time the problem will appear soon after drying although sometimes it takes days to appear. The only way to solve the problem is to recoat with color under better conditions.

Larry

stingraymaniac

i just redyed my interior and it went just fine without clearcoat
no white residues or such

NorthVette

There is a plastic primer one could use for the hard plastic parts, but I didn't use one. The most important step in painting is the prep work, clean thoroughly and wipe with a solvent to remove oils and or silicones...

adamdinat

Definitley humidity related. I sprayed my kick panels on a humid day and got the blush. Respraying in dry weather cured the problem. One thing I have noticed about spraying dye form a can is that it does not create the cloud you get with regular spray paint. I was able spray in my garage without gassing the place or getting overpray on everything.