Spreader Bar
#2
Le Mans Master
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Re: Spreader Bar (Vette-4-Life)
Don't adjust it to spread too much as it will affect your alignment. Be sure to get an alignment done after installation. Also, I'm sure that if you call or e-mail VBP and ask them, they will be more than happy to provide you with an answer.
I do not have the spreader bar installed on my vette, but it is one of the things on my list. If you recently had an alignment, and KNOW that your specs are correct, then I would think that you could take a measurement before installation and then adjust the spreader bar so that you have the exact same measurement after installation.
I do not have the spreader bar installed on my vette, but it is one of the things on my list. If you recently had an alignment, and KNOW that your specs are correct, then I would think that you could take a measurement before installation and then adjust the spreader bar so that you have the exact same measurement after installation.
#3
Melting Slicks
Re: Spreader Bar (Captain Morgan)
Just don't adjust it while the front is jacked up. As mentioned by Captain Morgan if your alignment is good have the car on the ground and just crank the spreader bar until snug. Just a few turns will affect the camber greatly. Craig
#4
Pro
Re: Spreader Bar (Vette-4-Life)
Yes, CF6873 is correct- just snug it up where you want it to hold. Remember, the purpose of the spreader bar is to prevent the shock towers from being forced in at the top under hard cornering. You don't need a tight spreader bar to accomplish that.
#5
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Re: Spreader Bar (Vette-4-Life)
:iagree: Hand snug only after you've had a successful front end alignment and after the weight of the car is back on the tires.
Do you have a stock fan, or electric? If stock, please let me know if the spreader bar fits under the water pump pulley or not. Mine didn't fit ('74 L48), and I'm having new A-arm brackets manufactured (1 1/2" bar, instead of 1" bar, to allow the spreader bar to mount 1/2" lower). Also a good idea to weld 1/16" tabs on the back of the A-arm bracket to fill the void between the bracket and the A-arm pivot arm. That's a flex point which reduces the effectiveness of the spreader bar.
Do you have a stock fan, or electric? If stock, please let me know if the spreader bar fits under the water pump pulley or not. Mine didn't fit ('74 L48), and I'm having new A-arm brackets manufactured (1 1/2" bar, instead of 1" bar, to allow the spreader bar to mount 1/2" lower). Also a good idea to weld 1/16" tabs on the back of the A-arm bracket to fill the void between the bracket and the A-arm pivot arm. That's a flex point which reduces the effectiveness of the spreader bar.
#6
CFOT Attention Whore
Re: Spreader Bar (Master Ho)
the more you spread the bar, the more (+) you will make your initial settings. it's really kind of irrelevant unless you've re-engineered your front a-arms because your going to go way (+) on the loaded wheel when cornering anyway. the purpose is simply to tighten up the front frame rails, which it does, not affect your suspension. i'd suggest you tighten it until you take all the slack out of the bar, then give it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn and lock it down.
#7
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Re: Spreader Bar (Vette-4-Life)
Thanks for all the responses. I did as Captain Morgan suggested and E-Mailed VB&P. They responded to 1/2 the question indicating that hand tighten to snug is all that is required, in accordance with the consensus here. I had also asked about needing an alignment after install and that was not answered. I just had an alignment 5,000 miles ago and don't fully understand how a little pressure by the spreader bar will require another alignment.
#11
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Re: Spreader Bar (Master Ho)
Just an fyi. Finally heard back from VB&P and they indicate that an alignment is not required if installed correctly. Overtightening the spreader bar will cause you to need an alignment.
#12
Melting Slicks
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Re: Spreader Bar (Vette-4-Life)
Hi
Just finished installing the VBP bar into my 68 BB.
I adjusted it to have no load at all with the front centerly lifted off the ground.
After lowering the car back onto its wheels, the bar was tight and required 2 full turns unscrewing to get loose again.
So the frame does bent a bit just under normal engine/car load.
Don't want to know how much when driving through bumps.
I tightened the bar one full turn ( so average between off the ground and sitting on its wheels ).
I had to do some modifications to the bar to get it to fit the big block.
Had to manufacture new attachments bracket angles to lower the bar about 1/2 inch to get below the big blocks double water pulley.
I also didn't like the spherical bearing rod end attachment bolts. The shank is much too short and the spherical bearing and one bracket angle are riding on the threads only.
Replaced both bolts by correct lenght bolts having a much longer shank and short threaded area.
Rgds. Gunther :seeya
Just finished installing the VBP bar into my 68 BB.
I adjusted it to have no load at all with the front centerly lifted off the ground.
After lowering the car back onto its wheels, the bar was tight and required 2 full turns unscrewing to get loose again.
So the frame does bent a bit just under normal engine/car load.
Don't want to know how much when driving through bumps.
I tightened the bar one full turn ( so average between off the ground and sitting on its wheels ).
I had to do some modifications to the bar to get it to fit the big block.
Had to manufacture new attachments bracket angles to lower the bar about 1/2 inch to get below the big blocks double water pulley.
I also didn't like the spherical bearing rod end attachment bolts. The shank is much too short and the spherical bearing and one bracket angle are riding on the threads only.
Replaced both bolts by correct lenght bolts having a much longer shank and short threaded area.
Rgds. Gunther :seeya