stingry

Just rebuilt motor and chasing high temp problem.

Originally had stock 300HP/350CI engine with 180 degree thermostat, copper radiator, 7 blade fan, steel shroud.
This ran at 180-190 degrees.

As above but rebuilt to 350HP/350CI, .060 over, 2.02/1.60 valves, port and polished, balanced and blueprinted. ie built to 1970 L-46 350HP specs. Cored radiator, new water pump, new fan clutch (may be dud), new hoses, radiator core etc and a 160 degree thermostat.
This now runs at 210 degrees. (I stop the engine there so I don't damage anything)

Is the engine going to run hotter because of the engine work and lumpier cam?

Or is there a cooling problem I haven't found yet?

I am replacing the fan clutch because it is sus but will also have to check out everything else if the temp is too hot. I am also going to play with mixtures and try and get the engine richer just in case this is an issue.




[Modified by stingry, 3:19 PM 4/5/2004]

Fevre

New eng will run hot until broken, lots of extra friction. Have you 'tuned' it, check the timing and rejetted for the new eng specs? Retarded timing can cause the eng to run not. 210 is not very hot all things considered.

Smokehouse69

Check your timing and mixture as Fevre suggested, also make sure you have all the air out of the system. An airlock can cause high temps.

stingry

Fevre,

Maybe it is the new engine. I am just scared after dropping 5 grand into my engine bay (cheap compared to some other guys on the CF) that I will cook it. I went for another drive tonight and it didn't get past 210. The fan clutch is still oozing blue gunk but I ran out of time to change it tonight. Hopefully get a fan spacer (only need 1/2" now thanks to Lars advice) and a new fan clutch in on Friday night. That will put my fan blade 1/2 way into shroud and hopefully pull more air at high temps.

stingry

Smokehouse69,

I understand the timing and will check it on the weekend.

How do I check if I have air in the system?

Thanks.

Pete

68shark

Also....check to make sure you have the correct vac. advance (might need one that was spec'd for your healthier cam...think the VC1810 is the right one) and ensure it's hooked up properly. If you are running "lean", you will run hotter than normal also. So many little things to check.....

Willis

Get rid of the 160 Thermostat and go back to your 180. This sounds backwards but trust me, it will help. The 180 thermostat will stay shut longer, allowing the water in the radiator to cool before going back into the engine. The 160 will stay open and the water will just keep flowing through the radiator without ever getting a chance to cool off.

68shark

I agree with Willis, although the thermostat topic is a "hot" one, pun intended. I had a 160 and have just changed to the 195 which apparently is "stock" for my engine ('68 327). Also swapped out my old brass rad (very old) for a new factory style rad from Dewitt's. Little driving since, (still cold here!) but notice the quicker warm up. I've run the 160 for years, but it took a long time to convince me that it was probably doing more harm than good and for me to accept the logic noted above. The new highly efficient rad should keep things in order!! Time will tell!

Brown78

I couldn't get use to seeing my temp up over 210 degrees. Was told that is normal for "78" L-82. I found myself driven with my eyes on the temp. more than the road. I installed a electric fan as a pusher fan. Helped me, went down to 180, 190 thats good for my eyes. :seeya