noise suppression kit
#3
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Re: noise suppression kit (Marks70Vette)
I can almost gauge my RPMs from the buzzing noise I get from the stereo, especially when playing a cassette tape.
#7
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Re: noise suppression kit (pillowmeto)
they dnt work, and they arent worth the time, just make sure you have everything grounded properly thats what it always comes down to :yesnod:
#10
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Re: noise suppression kit (Marks70Vette)
Noise Suppressors (AKA Capacitors) work by allowing the high frequencies that are humming around your car to go to ground.
By fitting extra capacitors between your poistive power supply to ground you can provide an alternative path for the RF to get to ground. Capacitors are also often known as "filters" and "supressors", "condensors" as they remove the unwanted RF and leave a pure DC voltage. They work by appearing a short to RF, yet an open to DC.
The closer to the radios 12V source the less noise you will hear. Any source of noise in the car such as switches, motors and POINTS (especially) can contribute to RF so good grounds and multiple capacitors around the car will help reduce the noise you hear. Any auto shop can sell you a condensor to do the job.
Good luck.
By fitting extra capacitors between your poistive power supply to ground you can provide an alternative path for the RF to get to ground. Capacitors are also often known as "filters" and "supressors", "condensors" as they remove the unwanted RF and leave a pure DC voltage. They work by appearing a short to RF, yet an open to DC.
The closer to the radios 12V source the less noise you will hear. Any source of noise in the car such as switches, motors and POINTS (especially) can contribute to RF so good grounds and multiple capacitors around the car will help reduce the noise you hear. Any auto shop can sell you a condensor to do the job.
Good luck.
#11
Melting Slicks
Re: noise suppression kit (stingry)
Hey Guys - there are 2 things in life I do not do well - electrical and welding. So as this topic interests me, I contacted a buddy of mine whom I think is pretty sharp.... Anyway - here is his 2 cents.....
well noise problems are some of the most challenging to solve, mainly cause there isn't one 'right' answer. Filtering the power to the radio via a capacitor or noise suppressor (cap and coil) can usually help, just have to make sure the components you're adding are rated for more power than the radio or amp consumes at max power. For example, if the radio is fused at 5 amps, then the noise suppressor should also be rated for at least 5 amps, 8 or 10 would be better! Other things to check are to make sure there's a filter on the alternator and use noise suppression spark plug wires. If you're still getting noise, then you have to get deeper and more analysis...maybe bad grounding etc..or corrosion on connections, or additional shielding could be required. The guy that ran the wire from the air cleaner to the frame, probably had a bad engine ground strap to begin with. My problem is the fiberglass and how to deal with it since you have no inherent shielding to take advantage of. In some cases you may have to put the shielding back on the distributor and wires. Sometimes you'll get noise in he AM band but not with the cd, cassette, or FM! Soooo...first you need to check and make sure the electrical in the car is in decent shape and the radio installation is up to acceptable standards. Once this is established, then go on to the next step and systematically go through all the permutations of what noise you get when what device is on. For example...getting whining noise when the blower fan is on High when listening to AM with engine running and the headlights on. When you get through all the details, it can give you decent clues to the actual problem. There are many systems to suspect on a vette so happy hunting.
Good Luck...
[Modified by kaiserbud, 10:16 PM 4/5/2004]
well noise problems are some of the most challenging to solve, mainly cause there isn't one 'right' answer. Filtering the power to the radio via a capacitor or noise suppressor (cap and coil) can usually help, just have to make sure the components you're adding are rated for more power than the radio or amp consumes at max power. For example, if the radio is fused at 5 amps, then the noise suppressor should also be rated for at least 5 amps, 8 or 10 would be better! Other things to check are to make sure there's a filter on the alternator and use noise suppression spark plug wires. If you're still getting noise, then you have to get deeper and more analysis...maybe bad grounding etc..or corrosion on connections, or additional shielding could be required. The guy that ran the wire from the air cleaner to the frame, probably had a bad engine ground strap to begin with. My problem is the fiberglass and how to deal with it since you have no inherent shielding to take advantage of. In some cases you may have to put the shielding back on the distributor and wires. Sometimes you'll get noise in he AM band but not with the cd, cassette, or FM! Soooo...first you need to check and make sure the electrical in the car is in decent shape and the radio installation is up to acceptable standards. Once this is established, then go on to the next step and systematically go through all the permutations of what noise you get when what device is on. For example...getting whining noise when the blower fan is on High when listening to AM with engine running and the headlights on. When you get through all the details, it can give you decent clues to the actual problem. There are many systems to suspect on a vette so happy hunting.
Good Luck...
[Modified by kaiserbud, 10:16 PM 4/5/2004]
68, alternator, audio, capacitor, car, condensors, corvette, distributor, hei, kit, kits, msd, noise, radio, suppression, supression